Tidgy

as above beyond that need to start considering rebuild

leak down test as a starting point, will tell you if valves are an issue. if your getting a misfire on bank 3 after coil pack and spark plug

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-wrx/subaru-impreza-44s-wrx-turbo-awd-2002/4548051 summit like that, £1000 trade in leaving £2500 to find. by the time you do the cams, flywheel then look at brakes, suspension etc etc etc just doesnt make sence to do anything much to a none turbo. you can do all of that and still be slower than a standard wrx

as above, standard bumper with aftermarket front lip splitter

as above, basicly a 2001 jdm sti with mods

by the time you have done all that your talking similar money to swapping for a wrx.

will be different mate. v1 vs v2, wagon vs saloon

wont be a plaque on a v2, was only v1's. have you got a picture of the vin plate?

trying to get much nt he way of extra power out of yoru current car will be the same im afraid. Impreza's derive their power from being turbo charged

None turbo isn't it? simply put dont bother even trying. Sell it and buy a wrx turbo.

GF8 is a wagon/estate that model code applies to various versions from what i can tell, but all wagons. Engine code applies to just a V2 555 sti saloon though. As said, any pics?

can prob be done via ecutek, but it aint gonna be any cheaper than a turbo map, so roughly £550+vat at least

So things are progressing,

track work is very different to road, oil temps, fuel supply etc need to be thought about

450 is pretty much gonna be a fresh build engine so a 2.5 will be fine around that (built right), 2.5 is a less revvy engine than the 2.0 but has alot more low down grunt. Other option is to have 2.0 stroked to 2.1. For road use i would go 2.5, Im going that route but aiming for 500-550 so had the block converted to closed deck. My7 advise would be go see a specialist and chat through options and costs. 450bhp will need alot of supporting mods to run reliably and safley so your gonna be into 5 figure sums

full respray will sort out any hidden problem areas (such as arches etc), but cost alot of money for a decent job. Be very wary of cheap paint jobs thoughs, it's the prep and ime spent that makes a decent paint job, not just a quick squirt of paint

depends how long its been stood and in what condition. I know a guy who left his stood for 3 years without proper coolant in it just water, 3 winters later and headgaskets gone as soon as they put boost through it cos when engines froze the ice has expanded and lifted the head. not to mention the heater matrix leaking like a sive. Still blamed it on the garage it went to for some work lol

Could be the timing is out as well

first step get it on a dyno, find out why its hesitating. You could carry on chasing it round things and not find it

i'd stop playing with boost pipes and such and get it looked at, the map could well need looking at and keep causig the fault could casue damage to the new engine

has it been mapped?

Small update today, look whats back from machine shop :D followed by a normal block vs closed deck converted

Scoobyclinic at chesterfield, although be Pat Herborn if it's Ecuteked. Andy F is the only other one i'd let near mine

working for me still