Tidgy

It varies greatly from year to year, but a rough list (taken some from above to make it as complete as possible) Different manifold some years have no/single/double avcs Suspension brakes pistons are different as said but new age don't have true forged pistons, they have hypereutectic Interior DCCD/no DCCD Bodywork difference, high level spoiler, roof spoiler on hawks. Wheels PCD is different on some years R180 vs R160 rear set (r180 is a stronger diff and different hubs) Cams ECU is the same but different map Exhaust is the same bar a cat removed on the STI Intercooler Injectors turbo So simply put alot beyond the engine as well

Anything tbh, there pretty rare so anyone looking for spares will be interested. Usual is engine and gearbox though

ouch, not good news. If you have room to break it prob get more breaking it, but will take a while to do it and for the parts to sell

make a good little upgrade from a td04

Ah fair doos.

The calipers are the same as yours arn't they so a bit of a pointless swap like for like? Could do with putting on braided lines as well

Ah bummer

He's their specialist in jap cars, he's been away for a couple of days so will be on the phone constantly unless you catch him at just the right time

Try Keith Michaels insurance, gary moulson is the guy to speak to.

STI turbo is a VF35. Your turbo will be your limit, as far as turbo's stay clear of ebay one's. Brakes i wouldn't bother with K sport, well known issues with dust seals. Decent set of D2's or similar will be same price and has proper dust seals. Or if you want the best a set of AP 4 or 6 pots are as good as it gets.

any dyno graphs? before and after the mods would also be good

go a speak to engine tuner mate, they can advise on best course of action inc turbo, fuel system etc

There is zero point in going water injection at that level of tune. Sack off the TMIC and get a FMIC fitted.

http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61_139&product_id=131 Can't find a direct link to a 321, most seem to just say call for price

Old tech. Much better options out there like SC42 or MD321 etc given better responce and better peak power

at 400 front mount is the way to go.

Then you have to worry about getting it all plumbed in, carrying the water around refilling it, heat soak at low speed etc etc

Yes there is, as said its been tested to death and proven FMIC is the best option other than in the case of a tiny turbo (TD04). It simply comes down to physics don't lie. Heat rises and top mounts only get limited airflow from the scoop

If you get down to calculating it to that extent then yes there is a difference, however the difference isn't enough to be noticeable when driving. I remember there was a calculation branded around ages ago, but it was flawed because it took 3k rpm as a constant, not a varilable and also assumed the same constant flow rates. It's like reverse inlet manifolds, they do make some difference, but alot of work for not that much of a gain.

No point in replacing the top mount on yours. You;d be paying alot of money to upgrade from the STI one. Engine tuner down in plymouth are the closest place i'd use to you.

Testing showed from 300bhp they allow mappers more head room, 300bhp became 320bhp due to to extra timing and such. Lag is a misconception as well, poor setup is the general cause. Only time when a front mount is pointless is on a TD04 turbo. After that its a much better solution. It was tested back to back by jap performance mag (standard top mount, uprated top mount and front mount), plus the late great harvey smith did alot of testing and experimenting on the very subject. Problem comes down to poor airflow being cause by the scoop. Wind tunnel showed you loose a chuck of airflow into the scoop due to air ballooning. I can't find the impreza image, but while the pic below is an svx, the areo is considerably better than an impreza and you can see you loose a section of air directly above the bonnet. Remove that from the area of the scoop and your reducign the airflow to the top mount considerably. I get your point about trimming the bumpers though. personally i'd want the performance gain ;)

My hawk had heat issues at 400, by the time you have fannied around with heat blankets and thermal barriers etc etc you may as well just got a front mount. It's a subject thats been done to death for many years and simply put front mount is by far the best option for performance.

cheers :D

Hard to tell, depends who mapped it, if they were any good and also whats changed since it was mapped.