Tidgy

Haha no mate. Rare as rocking horse poo second hand as well :(

Welcome

Welcome

My old 2006 2.5wrx suffered ring land failure at 60k. Standard car with full service history. I bought it with engine built to my spec in it. He drove it 400 miles after it started running funny and mashed the whole engine.

Standard 2.5 block will run 450 reliably so closed decking is a tad ott. Rebuilt with decent pistons, rods headstuds, gaskets and rebuild. Plenty of turbos in that range. So depends how much you wanna spend. Personal choice would be sc36. Will run 360 and spool like a rocket. Need fuel pump and injectors plus inlet pipe. Be cracking on the road with that spec

hehe yeah tis a good one.

I run a volvo v50 diesel as a daily and then my type R as a weekend toy, run two cars for years this way. Best of both. I switched to an M3 to use as a single car and just found it dull and boring and 6 months later swapped it for the Type R.

Hate to say it but if your worried about MPG you bought the wrong car lol

vpower or tesco 99 only mate.

As said, no worth doing. was pondering on doing it when mine was rebuilt but decided just wasnt worth it. It does improve things, but cost vs gain doesn't justify the spending unless you have unlimited money or building a race car so need every little bit.

Only just seen the viagra post. Fpmsl

Turbo is gonna be your limiting factor no mater what you do I'm afraid.

Alot depends on mechanical sympathy. i mullered 3rd gear in my old classic at 280ftlb, but was on the mountain pass on the isle of mann hahaha, its torque that kills box's rather than bhp. I ran my type r 5 speed at 330bhp/380ftlb but was only for about 4k miles and i knew it was being pushed so no hard launches. As said 330-350ftlb is typically as far as you'd would push a 5 speed, only exception being a hawk 5 speed, for some reason they seem to be taking alot more punishment than others. I ran 400/420 on one for about 14k miles with no problems and know a few that have been run over 450ftlb without problems.

welcome.

the link above is the info on RB5 owners site

about as good as you will get for a budget option. just watch out for cheap ebay copys

suspect it was a cat B, car was bought and parts put into a new shell. aka, its not an RB5

Watch out people, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMPREZA-SPECIAL-EDITION-RB5-WRX-STI-STUNNING-WITH-FRESH-PAINT-amp-LOW-MILES-/162283306244?rmvSB=true&clk_rvr_id=1127618415962&nma=true&si=8yLs8O44OjZ32T6RYLim7E2vH%2FU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 then http://www.rb5oc.co.uk/gallery/rb5-268.asp holy badgers ring piece

you don't have to run turbos at full power.

i'd seriously be temped by a toucan if it wasn't so !Removed! expensive

you havn't even read it have you. Go and read it then come back.

Just to add, you can watch a whole bottom end build here. Guess he defies the laws of physics as well considering he puts all 4 pistons in after assembling the block lol Miky taking aside, I'm not sure where your info is coming from kershaw but its way off the mark :S The whole point is by not splitting the block you save time and cost. This can only be done before failure. Once failure occurs then you need to pull it and split the block to see whats going on. Also you arn't having to replace damaged parts. If you think they don;t know what there doing then how have they been able to produce these, Plus god knows how many road engines, cars etc.

And i'd guess you'd know more about it than they would? i didn't realise you had built hundreds of engines over 20 years,,,, hahaha

I think you need to go an understand what is meant by the term. Unless you think 'drop in' is a make lmao.

http://scoobyclinic.com/performancetuning.htm 'The process starts starts with the engine out, strip down, asses and report, if 400 BHP is the figure we are after it is a lot cheaper than 450 BHP as we don’t have to strip the bottom end, just heads off, new forged drop in pistons and back together using ARP head studs, and all new gaskets. Cost wise approx £2K + vat to do this. If 450 BHP is the ask then we have to go further and strip the whole engine adding con rods and new bearings at the same time, add £1500.00 + vat to the £2K.' It approx figures but costs escalate when there is damage, do it before and its no where near as costly. As far as costs you do realise i have only just had mine rebuilt so well aware of what they are?