stants

Got a link to it ? If ut's a fsh car then shouldn't be a major issue, is it a 2.5 or 3l ?

Hello & welcome nice looking legacy/liberty [emoji1] I'm sure one of the leggy owners will be along at some point to help diagnose, have you plugged it into a diagnostic reader ? My limited guess may be a nock sensor or cam position sensor gone duff.

If doing loads of short trips best to run the car with the sidelights on as they use a smart alternator so it won't be kicking in to recharge the battery on short trips, With the lights & stereo on it will draw current and the car will 'see ' it needs to switch the alternator on

Who's that with ? Could always try one of the companies that will install a black box to monitor your driving, also have a your mum or dad as 2nd driver, is it garaged &with a cat 1 alarm ? What area do you live in and consider how many miles you do a year, maybe look into a limited mileage policy

All depends, i'm not to sure on newage cars but jap imports always used to come with higher specs better equipment in cabin, I doubt the jdm wrx's will be forged normally just sti's that get goodness like that, they used to come with more power, mine for instance has a bigger turbo than the eudm foresters. So it could be bigger turbo/ injestors different cams etc maybe 05's will be a twin scroll not to sure. Basically the insurance companies see it's an import and ads some on for A, different specs/more power B, availability of spares & repair items, even though this is ****** as mine is identical in every way build wise to eudm cars so I can order just about anything from dealer or online and it will fit. C, because every one adds jdm tax, no matter what it is

Are you looking at in import ? Even more to insure ! [emoji35] What exactly are you after info wise ?

You also have to take into account how many have been stolen or written off as this increases the premium so it's not necessarily purely down to engine size

Have a word with Chris D as he's a 'young' driver and he managed to get his quotes down from 5 k to around 2kish I think

Hello & welcome, when you say the oil drops slowly how much are you loosing ? Could be the rocker cover gaskets and plug seals these perish after time and can allow oil to get into the plugs,

Funny that I was offered a v8/9 bottom end recently [emoji24]

Cheers fella ! Like I say it's a toss up between some more gauges etc or re bushing the back end looks like the bleed has cured my clutch woes, the fluid must have degraded that much it was allowing the clutch to bind ever so slightly, which in turn has made it run quieter ☺

Plenty of reconditioning places around have you Googled 'gearbox reconditioning' ? expect to pay under a grand for the job doing may be less if you can remove and ship it yourself, or the other alternative is to buy a 2nd hand 'box. have a look at the vin plate on the strut tower in the engine bay and it will tell you the gearbox code, type it in Google and see what it brings up, no idea what the difference is between n/a &turbo boxes but there's bound to be some available,

I've the op in that spot at the mo Clive but I'll need to remove the 'extended line' I can't remember what size the brass plug is and if it will accept the sensor with out any modification, I'll have to dig out the paperwork and see, I thought if I stuffed it directly in the sump it would give me a 'true' reading of temps ? I only put the pressure above no 3 as I thought that will give me more advanced reading of starvation at the back of the block ? And to be honest I wasn't that confident of rotating the alternator , it was one of the 1st things I did when I got her and was still very green ! It's one of the things on the list of 'possible things to throw money at' [emoji51]

Gotta start somewhere mate if the stock stereo & speakers are as rubbish as the older ones then you'll see a massive improvment

Cool I'll have a look

Hello & welcome feel free to get stuck in and some pics up ! Have you any plans for it yet ?

Yeah but I've heard mixed reviews on these aswell

As above seen some sump plugs with threaded holes for a sensor, anyone have experience of these ? Just can't be arsed moving everything around again,

Lol yeah if i'm pushing on it will go through half a tank in no time, I went for a rcm pump as the walbros have had some issues recently build quality has gone down by all accounts. Mines a jap import which was supposed to have 240 bhp from the factory, however it may have been inflated a bit in the media, anyway, i always always ran on vpower but used to get around 100 miles to 25l so around 20mpg urban and maybe 28 motorway. And between 330-350 miles out of a tank, which considering it's tiny I'm happy with. I have twin maps vpower and an emergency crap fuel map (which I'm yet to try) Since the map I get around 150 miles from the same and between 30-37mpg depending, so man maths and speaking to the misses it has just about paid for it's self [emoji51] It used to come on boost around 2.8k and pull to around 6k with full boost around 4.5k by which time you were well over the Nat limit, Now it starts just over 2k and full by 3.5k which is plenty, it does start to run out of puff after 5k but if I wanted more I'd have stuck a td05 or vf34 on. Basically I wanted a quick responsive road car which is what he did, I was a bit disappointed not being able to hit the 270's in hp as most classic owners manage but I've since found out that the heads & cam profile is different so less hp but more torque based for the foz .

I wouldn't go that far mate I've no experience with the diesel, dogconkers your man if you have any questions regarding glow plugs he and his wife have a pair of diesel xv's one of them has had issues the other has been fine

He did mine back in feb no idea what it originally had but hp is around 225 and torque is up to 250ftlbs and wound the boost up to 1.2bar eally early spool loads more real world power delivery

Check what euro model it is 4 or 5 4's had most of the problems

Think dunc got a completely stock xt from 210 to pretty much 250 with no problems, nice fat torque curve and better delivery. The standard clutch is good for 300 ish too

As long as it doesn't take the **** and is 'standard' to manufactures appearance, I.e not been modded to 6" from the manifold to side exit then they don't really have a problem

It's a bit hit and miss as they don't really take to generic maps, as the air fuel ratio can be all over the place, there is open source software around it's called carberry it's around 200 quid cheaper than ecutek as you don't have to pay for a licence. There's a load of info on forester.org about cobb access port tuning which is widely available in the states and there's a few people here with it