kayzarh Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 12 minutes ago, savage bulldogs said: Just a guess, the v3 has preface clocks (non digital readout with black faces) if the ecu you've got is for a v3 it would have the same plug type but not necessarily the same pinorder. Have you cross referenced the ecu code and the model code of the car as this might explain the posible difference in pins and the electrical symptoms. Otherwise check for breaks in the insulation in the car and engine loom. Especially around the grey plugs at the ends of the engine loom . I haven't seen a v4 key fob before and my v3 uk had the standard sigma alarm . What's the "laze line " if it's a aftermarket alarm have you got any paperwork for it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 it has the digital white wrx speedo! ill upload a picture now! im 100% the ecu is the stock one included with the car! yeh, will have to do that! yes its a laserline 996 and i have all the paperwork for it! just ordered a blue silicone pipe to replace the (Cracked) air intake under manifold pipe! also ordered some heat wrap for the manifold! (sorry about the bad pic, not at the car!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 What size helicoil do I need ? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 update: Out with the bug :(.... managed to fix the horn, the horn was jammed in at the steering wheel so i had a pry at it and its all good! Found a blown fuse and replaced it and that particular wiring keeps eating my fuse so short it is! Ordered a short finder kit! Might have to pull the manifold to install the silicone turbo intake!2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 I have a crazy short in my car! Might have to pull all interior.... Using the hazard lights blows the headlight rh fuse + hazard/horn fuse Turning the headlight level from 0 to 1 blows fuse 18 under steering whee positon 2&3 is fine Using the left indicator (via steering wheel) causes the whole odometer to flash. It's gonna take a long time to fix this one I reckon Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Sounds like a major short in the loom. Likely gonna be a portion where all wires run together has melted or the insulation been worn away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Sounds like a major short in the loom. Likely gonna be a portion where all wires run together has melted or the insulation been worn away. I'm guessing I have no choice but to pull off all the interior Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 If it's been stood up a while it might be moisture or corrosion on either a earth or a loom plug. I'd visually check that there all making a good connection, maybe even check the ecu board for dry joints and any other mods in the loom . Just might be worth a try before pulling the dash 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Yeh I've literally done that already, seen some loosened electrical tape and stripped it our inspected and then reinsulated. Oh well I was going to alcantara up the interior anyway I really can't afford to call someone out to check it[emoji14] And even if I could, I wouldn't be able to justify it cause it would cost like 300 and throw in another 200 and I can get a rcm manifold or a nur spec r a good condition vf34 and esl board and the learning experience would just go down the drain Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Long story short this happened. My plumber friend filled it in with solder, will it hold or is it wiser to replace Help! Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Is it a fuel or vacuum line that's been repaired ? If it's fuel I personally wouldn't take the chance that it won't leak again and spray fuel all over the bay If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 I believe its a fuel line, and the pressurized one! Can't seem to find one on eBay otherwise I'd buy one. To be honest my friend did a good job and you can hardly tell! The issue here is finding the replacement! Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Most breakers chuck the fuel lines away (it's the first one I've ever seen fubar) try scoping face book for a second hand fuel line of the same phase . Or spend a couple of hundred and get a parallel line set up 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Most breakers chuck the fuel lines away (it's the first one I've ever seen fubar) try scoping face book for a second hand fuel line of the same phase . Or spend a couple of hundred and get a parallel line set up 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Awesome what phase is a v4 manifold? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Phase 1.5 v3 or v4 will be a straight swap bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah im going backwards... guesswhat...the blue chinese turbo intake dosent fit!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and to ice the cake i had to mod a hose to try and fit it and it still didnt fit! and i scratched up my new manifold gaskets and now i need to buy an original turbo intake pipe + the silicone pipe just a question @savage bulldogs what is the name of this metal pipe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I don't know what either pipe is called but . It looks like either.... the hard pipe that runs on top of the inlet manifold from the icv to the intake pipe . Or the hard pipe that runs underneath the inlet between the factory recirc valve to the intake . If it's the recirc valve one and your running a vta dump valve. you have to "bung" or remove it and "bung" the hole in the intake pipe it goes to . If you do remove it and your still running a purge system, you will need to reroute the small bore hard pipe vac line though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 14 hours ago, savage bulldogs said: I don't know what either pipe is called but . It looks like either.... the hard pipe that runs on top of the inlet manifold from the icv to the intake pipe . Or the hard pipe that runs underneath the inlet between the factory recirc valve to the intake . If it's the recirc valve one and your running a vta dump valve. you have to "bung" or remove it and "bung" the hole in the intake pipe it goes to . If you do remove it and your still running a purge system, you will need to reroute the small bore hard pipe vac line though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 yes its not the right angle pipe at the top but the one on the side; @savage bulldogs does that make it any clearer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Is it a little plastic elbow that runs off the intake pipe to the recirc hard pipe that's snapped off? If so and your running a vta dump valve you can just bung the hole where the elbow was .then either re run the smaller vac line hard pipe in silicone or refit the hard pipe (with the elbow hole bunged) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Just had a look through a few pics and the small bore hard pipe isn't a vac line. It's either coolant or oil breather (can't remember which) You can leave both hard pipes in situ connect up the small bore one and blank the opening off the intake that the s pipe connects to . maybe using the same bung the previous owner used to seal the end of the recirc hard pipe . As if you've got a vta dump valve you don't need the big bore hard pipe but you must blank the hole in the intake pipe .otherwise it will suck in Un metered and Un filtered air . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 7, 2016 Author Share Posted May 7, 2016 its been a long time haha :D well LONG STORY SHORT, Chinese turbo intake didnt fit, had to mod another silicone hose which i had to then replace, called my Subaru showroom and it took an amazing 1 month to get here :D wrapped headers, uppipe and downpipe....i also found my short...some of the loom was touching the manifold and melted it on so it was shorting from there!!! changed the exhaust system over and swapped o2 sensors. drilled out the broken nuts for the windscreen washer reservoir! ordered in a new genuine turbo intake from icp filled some water in (which im going to empty asap, ive got some fuchs frikofisk ready) and well all thats left is changing the timing belt and idlers (should be done this Thursday friday) and rebuilding the brakes/painting/powdercoating them. here is some action (i suspect a dirty ivac as im occasionally having fluctuating idle revs) i need to find a factory airbox top bit as i have a pipercross one which is shot, so will be replaced with original airbox and hks filter. Video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 things are taking a turn for the worst :/ i decided to fill the master cylinder (never noticed it was empty) in an attempt to see if i could bleed the brakes and get them to work and this happened at the rear driver side axle : and it was dripping from onto of the fuel tank. and through this hole: and we suspected that the issue was somewhere in this hard brake line from my understanding (1) i need to take the whole rear differential off along with the axle to get behind the panel to the line and fix it. I saw this fix regarding a (2) legacy; could i do the same thing ? what do you think would be my best angle of approach and attack on this issue Option (1) or (2) any ideas guys, @savage bulldogs what do you think savs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 To drop the tank the subframe has to come off, Not entirely sure but the hardlines may go down through the floor under the passenger seat Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 19 minutes ago, stants said: To drop the tank the subframe has to come off, Not entirely sure but the hardlines may go down through the floor under the passenger seat Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk just like in the video that i posted? how long of a task is it to take off a subframe?; im genuinely clueless. thanks for the heklp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Ah sorry not seen the video as was at work, Depends how rusty it all is, savage is your man for that kind of question, but I think most of the back end needs to come apart to do it, While your at it I'd check the fuel filler and if it's super rusty I'd change it wile the tanks out/down saves messing around at a later date ?? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 On 10/05/2016 at 7:43 PM, stants said: Ah sorry not seen the video as was at work, Depends how rusty it all is, savage is your man for that kind of question, but I think most of the back end needs to come apart to do it, While your at it I'd check the fuel filler and if it's super rusty I'd change it wile the tanks out/down saves messing around at a later date ?? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk im thinking, since im keeping this car for my kids (lol) i might aswell take the rear off, get all the links and whatnot whitelined (swaybar, links, bushing etc) and since i have a type ra gearbox in it, why not opt for the LSD rear diff. THIS IS ALL A SIGN FROM ABOVE LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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