kayzarh Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Wondering if it's a sign from above to go and get a standalone ecu! Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Made some substantial progress, Savs I'm getting 12v from the immobiliser wire that goes into the ecu, so that's fine My voltage is dropping to 4v at pin 4 on the relay connector. So I'm going to go home and make a jump lead which connects the 12v constant power from pin 2 to the 4v which is pin 4, I think the fact that I'm getting 4v on that line means I have a bad ground somewhere here: Along that wire somewhere. Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Guess a by pass will get it running again but I'd try to trace the fault and fix it , especially as it's blowing big fuses . I wouldn't try a different ecu yet either ,well not until it's fixed as you could end up frying a new ecu if the faults still there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Checked my ecu and it was fine, traced the fault to the relay connector, took a plunge and jumped the connector between the solid 12v and the one running to the fuel pump, no luck, while I was running it a spark went off and I think I blew my ecu then cause I checked all fuses and no luck. Going to double check tomorrow probably Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 @savage bulldogs guess what, i think my ecu is fine :D so i checked the wire which carried the 12v power to the ecu, guess what, it came back dry, nothing, not even 1 volt. so i traced the wiring diagram and found the sbf5 fuse, i checked it and it looked completely fine, but then i was like HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUH, it had the thinnest hairline crack in it, so im hoping if i replace this fuse, and the fuse dosent blow again, my ecu should be fine :D then i can get back to finding the damn short in that loom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted October 7, 2016 Author Share Posted October 7, 2016 problem seems to be with the aftermarket fuel pump/ignition kill.....this is going to be a bit long! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 okay, all it was is a bad fuel pump which got replaced now the car is starting and running again. i have a very lumpy idle, im running rich as told by someone, also checked my sparks today, they look to be showing sign of being rich. ive changed the maf, cleaned ivac and replaced gasket. the only time i get a error code is in the morning. i can hold the ignition for 5 seconds and it wont start it will turn, try to start a bit and then just give up. all i have to do to fix that issue is, crank the car for a sec, let off and crank again and it fires straight up. i have no cel and no error codes with the cables underneath the dash. any ideas @savage bulldogs ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Glad to hear it's running again . What's the morning error code for ? It could still be a pump wiring issue if you have to prime it twice to get it started . If you run it low on fuel it could be a part blocked fuel filter or injector (although the filter should stop dirt getting to the injectors ) Check the fpr vac line /purge system too . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 Error code 53 which is an immobiliser issue according to the net. So shall I replace injectors and fuel filter? Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 found an exhaust leak from the join of the headers-upipe, need to tighten it up and inspect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 You'd have to check but I don't think the jdms have a imoblizer? , if so you could try swapping the uk ecu for a jdm one of the same year that runs the same turbo and injectors. Is there any spark plugs that seem "wetter" ie could a injector be dirty and " blobbing" fuel in rather than spraying fuel ,causing a misfire and popping? I still think it's probably a wiring fault rather than mechanical but you could try removing 1 spark plug lead at a time and starting it up . If it doesn't run worse when removing a particular plug it could help diagnose which cylinder is not firing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 okay, i found the biggest exhaust leak in the header-upipe joint, there was only 1 bolt in and the other 1 flew off somewhere and only half a gasket, its all been fixed now the car is running like it was before, more quiet than ever before actually. but im sure i can still here backfiring from being rich and yeh now that you mention it, the actual spark filament on the plugs where fine, it was just the thread and the rim that was covered in petrol. idling very smooth now and the fluctation is between +/-50 revs and any rev will hold. and sometime she is boosting at 3.5k sometimes at 4.5k. im thinking i have the tiniest vacuum leak now and some messed injectors, whats the best way to check for both of these @savage bulldogs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Good to hear it was that exhuast leak rather than the dodgy pump. You've got a spare now though 😁😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Vac leaks can normally be spotted visually by looking for cracks or loose fitting ends . You could just buy some new vac line (about £10) and replace each bit in turn to try to find the faulty bit . Just make sure you fit it in the right route and take note of t pieces and the direction of 1 way valves in the purge system . Unfortunately the only way I know you can check the injector spray pattern is correct . Is to remove them and get them flow matched and ultrasonically cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 19, 2016 Author Share Posted November 19, 2016 Good to hear it was that exhuast leak rather than the dodgy pump. You've got a spare now though 😁😂 Started feeding the baby milk to the fuel system man, I swear my turbo is growing 😂😂😂😂 Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 Can't get over that. I told parcelmonkey but no reply about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted November 20, 2016 Author Share Posted November 20, 2016 Can't get over that. I told parcelmonkey but no reply about it. That's what pisses me off about these big companies, when they screw up, we have to put extra effort to fix it for them, for free, with our time. Now if we owe them a fiver, its the end of the world with threat letters. Sent from my MX4 Pro using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 alright LARGE update guys, been off the forum for ages but need to make a comeback!!! Turns out my juddering issues was infact the fuel pump, i dropped in a RCMS 340lph and all is good, ive joined the club @Scoobyghost @savage bulldogs. Now as i had an exhaust leak in my upipe my car was never boosting on point, well i fixed that with a genuine gasket and then the car started boosting hard!! Well guess what! its overheated twice, with a puddle of coolant near the water crossover pipe! i think my water crossover seals are leaking or one of the pipes which are holding coolant!! BUT OH MAN DOES SHE PULL! anyway time to rip the manifold off and get inspecting! also have a slight oil leak due to a leaky rocker cover rh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 ive also been thinking about my next build and its going to have to be a ej257 block, pinned and linered by alyn at as performance, then im going to destroke it to a 2.35 and throw in a 6 speed jdm sti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Glad to hear it's running better kay [emoji41] Shame it's pushing coolant out [emoji57] Hopefully you've just nipped a crossover "O" ring on assembly or its coming from the bottom header tank pipe . Rather than it pressurising the coolant system with combustion gasses (headgasket symptoms ) . 2.35 is probably the build route I'll take when my current engine goes pop , well that and when I've saved enough in the scooby modding pot[emoji12] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 Worst case it's the headgasket BUT the car has cometic gasket and was a fresh redone head according to the previous owner. Looks like the crossover seals where never changed and they were brittle and covered in like algae. Gonna do my service aswell, so ordered helix 5-40, some Fuchs coolant, new inlet manifold gasket, crossover seals and rocker cover seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 After I fix this, I'm going to check for hydro carbons in the cooling system via MOST man. I mean the last time it happened was months ago, I've driven roughly 1k miles since then. Only happened recently again! May likely be a slow headgasket leak, but then again, my coolant is all clean from oil and so is my oil of water. The crossover seals where hard as plastic! I think the previous owner didn't change the seals as the block was a v6 one، so it had the 1 sensor coolant crossover and the loom is the two sensor crossover so he had to change it and he probably didn't change the seals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 The good news is that i pinpointed the leak and it was infact the crossover seals that where gone. THE BAD NEWS is that the car still overheats if i boost it hard all the way to redline, no redline no fun ;( therefore i have officially given up on this engine, i will take it out and place it to a side. as @savage bulldogs said looks like the pressure in the water is being cause by a HG leak or a cracked liner. its that time for a 2.35 stroker build ;) may take me like 5 years though LOL. I need all the help i can get again on part 2 of this facade :D:D:D:D. I want to keep my chassis rust free whilst its not moving, whats the best way to do this in an outdoor condition (I already have a car cover). also i need to do heavy research on engine building and drive-train/handing modification, can i have some pointers in the right direction? where to get reading? who to ask? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stants Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Put it on axel stands, take wheels off that way will lessen the stress on suspension and stop your tyres going square at the bottom, get some moisture absorbers and chuck them in the car, Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayzarh Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 well, a little update, me being without the boost and that, i went to assess the cooling system on the car, the pipe to the overflow was blocked out with sludge, so i unblocked it and well, i bled the car filled her up again and went for a boost and that and wolla, no overheating. no bubbles in the overflow unless i squeeze the top radioator hose O.O. oh right, the eBay headers where really doing my head in on the up-pipe joint and the gasket just kept breaking so then i thought may aswell put the syms 4-2-1 manfiold on. these manifolds required me to jack the engine up from the tranny to clear the motor mounts and drop the subframe from the bolts and pry the subframe down slightly. i also helicoiled some weak manfiold studs with some help! i noticed the oil leak wasnt from the rocker covers but from the rocker washers, so i swapped them out! since i hit the downpipe from underneath during my very safe countryside runs O.O, i got the welder to cut the dented peice out and hammer it back out and weld it together, got him some 3" piping and we fitted the exhaust properly so that it wasnt hanging no more, also did a resonator delete :D these headers...they sound...amazing..............like legit WRC:D put some v5 silicone intercooler piping on my v4 one and it caused the metals of the intercooler screw and the clutch cylinder protector to rub, so i got this done: (PICTURE WILL BE HERE) The latest issue seems to be my IVAC which is on its last legs :D oh and 1 year later finally got some speakers and a HU in my scooby LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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