a few pics of my project so far

[stants]

Tis mighty loud !

[savage bulldogs]

There's a lot of wind noise and attowe's dyno cell is a sealed room but It's !Removed! brutal over 3 k [emoji19]

It wasn't too bad before I fitted the cusco downpipe .

The mrs likes it and it stops me doing over 3 k unless I'm on a slip lane [emoji6]

[stants]

I'm wondering weather to get rid of one of the resonators in my centre at idle everyone else's drowns nine out and i've never heard it on a drive by

[Scoobyghost]

I'm wondering weather to get rid of one of the resonators in my centre at idle everyone else's drowns nine out and i've never heard it on a drive by

What system do you have now?

I know it comes down to size as well but I work on a two box policy(in my head*) seems to work for me at the minute.

*I'm in no way an exhaust specialist and this advice is not to be used as fact.*[emoji15]

[stants]

This one http://www.cobrasport.com/index.php/cobra-sport-exhaust/subaru/subaru-impreza-turbo-track-day-turbo-back-system-with-sports-cat.html although it was no where near that price

[Scoobyghost]

Quite a large rear box?

[D.Pavely]

That's what she said

[savage bulldogs]

It's a 5zigen jasma (jdm race spec) catback ,extremely light and pretty rare cos I've never seen another gc8 one for sale .

It's got a resonator box , fully slip jointed and very well made .

I love the look and quality of it but with the rim refurb , geo set up eating into the "bigger turbo fund" I just can't afford something more subtle sounding of the same quality atm

[savage bulldogs]

still not had the opportunity to have someone to double check the live readings on the apexi controller during a 3rd gear pull[emoji57]

I'm fairly confident the filter swap worked though as the boost is holding better higher in the rev range according to my boost gauge [emoji41]

So I tried the other setting attowe said to switch to and midrange torque /top end pull are much better with a fair bit of boost for 3/4 throttle uphill

[savage bulldogs]

Double post

[savage bulldogs]

Been fettling a few bits for under the bonnet as it only takes time, doesn't eat into the "moding pot " and keeps my idle hands busy [emoji6]

polished up a spare ally power steering bracket

And prepping a v3 header tank (not quite finished yet )

Scoobs now sitting on my temporary rims as the rotas are off to the powder coaters

not 100% sure why the pics are on the previous post lol I'll have to edit it later on the p.c

[Rick 2014]

Got some nano drive oil and mahle filter so while doing the oil change I decided it would be rude not to fit some of the new vacuum hoses I got for xmas of the mother in law .

Not much of a visual difference at the moment as I wont fit the full kit until I fit the hdi fmic , but I noticed that some of the original vacuum had become brittle when fitting the engine last year .

before

Spot the difference :-)

Hi Clive where does the water at the top of your radiator run to

[turbotomo]

Alrite bud, cars looking nice, when you put the motor together do you know what the piston to wall clearances were.

As I'm using the same pistons , trying to find out how much slap there will be , do you get much ,And dose it go away quickly?

Also have you had any luck with different weight oils .

[savage bulldogs]

Rick i have two small bore pipes from the header tank one goes to the rad itself the other goes to a thin metal pipe that runs right across the rad to the plastic expansion bottle near the Battery.

turbo I can't remember the exact clearance as i built it nearly 2 yrs ago but I spoke to the tech guy at advanceautomotive (where I bought the pistons from) and explained I wanted to run 550 hp max (600hp limit on my crank) and he told me what to get the bores machined to and what to gap the rings at .

They're quite noisy when cold and quieten down to a light "tappet" noise when warm (70°oil temp).tbh as I don't intend to break the 500 barrier anymore (350 hp in a 1220 kg car is more than fast enough for the road) so I wish I'd bought the slightly cheaper lesser hp version mahles ,as they're allowed to run tighter clearances .

Don't get me wrong my engines done 8k @ 330 + hp now and doesn't use a drop of oil or coolant . It's actually at it's quietest when being spanked on the dyno with 100° oil temp but I did buy "race" pistons so I suppose thats to be expected.

As for oil grade I ran it in with millers 10w40 running in oil changed at 250 miles , 600 miles then 10 w40 fully synthetic millers in at 1k and had it mapped.

Best oil I've found to keep the pistons quieter but the oil pressure right for the crank ect is the millers nano drive 10w60 .

Hope that helps fellas

[Rick 2014]

Rick i have two small bore pipes from the header tank one goes to the rad itself the other goes to a thin metal pipe that runs right across the rad to the plastic expansion bottle near the battery.

Turbo I can't remember the exact clearance as i built it nearly 2 yrs ago but I spoke to the tech guy at advanceautomotive (where I bought the pistons from) and explained I wanted to run 550 hp max (600hp limit on my crank) and he told me what to get the bores machined to and what to gap the rings at .

They're quite noisy when cold and quieten down to a light "tappet" noise when warm (70°oil temp).tbh as I don't intend to break the 500 barrier anymore (350 hp in a 1220 kg car is more than fast enough for the road) so I wish I'd bought the slightly cheaper lesser hp version mahles ,as they're allowed to run tighter clearances .

Don't get me wrong my engines done 8k @ 330 + hp now and doesn't use a drop of oil or coolant . It's actually at it's quietest when being spanked on the dyno with 100° oil temp but I did buy "race" pistons so I suppose thats to be expected.

As for oil grade I ran it in with millers 10w40 running in oil changed at 250 miles , 600 miles then 10 w40 fully synthetic millers in at 1k and had it mapped.

Best oil I've found to keep the pistons quieter but the oil pressure right for the crank ect is the millers nano drive 10w60 .

Hope that helps fellas

The only oil that touches my car is 10w/60 fully synthetic

[savage bulldogs]

I think most use 5w 30

Newage and 10w 40 for classics but as you well know it's a big can of worms cos there's loads of opinions on grades .

I've always used fully synth in the scoob ,well apart from the mineral millers for the running in period

I tried some fuchs pro r fully synth 10w60 in mine last year . It seemed noisier on start up , warmed up quicker (probably due to excessive friction) and raised the warm oil pressure by nearly bar .so i Took it out and went back to the slightly more expensive millers nano drive 10w60 and it's much better ,apparently it's actually more like a 10w50 in thickness it just clings to everything better so it's graded higher

I'd stick to whatever grade that your cars used to if you don't have any issues bud .

Why are you looking at switching expansion bottle types rick ?

[savage bulldogs]

I decided against high power silver cos if the mrs curbs them again they'll be impossible to touch up but i didn't want just gloss black so settled on polar black instead

They look gloss black untill the sun hits them then you can see the flecks of blue,green,red ,gold and silver metalic ,my phone camera doesn't pic it up too well but you can see it a bit

Finally changed the one odd green tint uk door glass for the jdm black tinted glass and have now finished with the uk Shell so it will be scrapped fairly soon

[turbotomo]

I've been using total quarts 10 50, good stuff . I've got an external oil cooler under the bonnet scoop and it works really well , I havnt got an oil temp gauge but the water temp is way under half way ,

I might not use it on the new motor try and keep the oil temps up to stop any slap,,

Thanks for the help,

[Rick 2014]

I think most use 5w 30

Newage and 10w 40 for classics but as you well know it's a big can of worms cos there's loads of opinions on grades .

I've always used fully synth in the scoob ,well apart from the mineral millers for the running in period

I tried some fuchs pro r fully synth 10w60 in mine last year . It seemed noisier on start up , warmed up quicker (probably due to excessive friction) and raised the warm oil pressure by nearly bar .so i Took it out and went back to the slightly more expensive millers nano drive 10w60 and it's much better ,apparently it's actually more like a 10w50 in thickness it just clings to everything better so it's graded higher

I'd stick to whatever grade that your cars used to if you don't have any issues bud .

Why are you looking at switching expansion bottle types rick ?

My current coolant bottle gets in the way of my front mount pipe work making more bends to get around the bottle.I missed the post man this morning so the coolant bottle will be here Monday now.I want to shorten the pipe work as much as possible and use as less silicone hoses as possible on it so when I boosting the hoses don't get sucked flat lol

[savage bulldogs]

I did wonder what you were up too but it makes sense now lol .

I was a bit concerned about using a silicone elbow when I modded the fmic pipework for the reversed inlet .

Cos even though its positioned after the turbo and has positive boost (won't suck flat) I thought it might "swell" too much causing a bit of lag . So I've pushed the hard pipes right into the elbow as far as possible and it didn't seem to "balloon" at all when on full chat (1.58 bar) on the dyno [emoji6]

[savage bulldogs]

Not much of a update just a couple of pics i had done by matt woods photography while at a meet with my local forum

He's obviously talented with a camera as its the cars 21st birthday this month and i think she looks quite good [emoji41]

well in his pics anyways[emoji5]

[stants]

They look sweet mate, like 2nd one, dunno what that says about me liking the look of 21 year olds !Removed! [emoji41]

[savage bulldogs]

Cheers stants and hmmmm 21yr olds asses

Well the back end of the scoob had started to feel a bit "wallowy " and I new the rear shocks and top mounts had seen better days as they were the originals off the v3 uk .

so i ordered some new rear shocks and group n top mounts from icp and set about stripping my elbaich springs off the old legs

fitted the new top mounts and old springs to the shocks

and fitted them with new elbaich rear camber bolts

I've set the camber bolts in a neutral position for now as i still need to get a geo set up done but the overall ride is much smoother and she now turns in nicely (like a scooby should ) instead of feeling like i was towing a caravan

[IOWoc]

Not much of a update just a couple of pics i had done by matt woods photography while at a meet with my local forum

He's obviously talented with a camera as its the cars 21st birthday this month and i think she looks quite good [emoji41]

well in his pics anyways[emoji5]

 

Looking very nice savage!

 

 

fitted them with new elbaich rear camber bolts

I've set the camber bolts in a neutral position for now as i still need to get a geo set up done but the overall ride is much smoother and she now turns in nicely (like a scooby should )

 

 

Iv never really paid these camber bolts much attention as I'm always thought them to be more of a stance item, never really through about the improvement in road holding etc to be had from them, is the improvement notable? or is this coupled with other supporting mods?

 

again great thread savage.

[savage bulldogs]

Cheers chap [emoji106]

I've been told that they help when having a proper geo set up done as they give a bit of adjustment on the rear (which otherwise is non adjustable) .

I've noticed a big difference with what I've fitted but I think that was mainly because the rear shocks and top mounts were shot to !Removed! lol .

It handles really well anyways but a geo set up is on that never ending list (along with brembos and a bigger turbo)

As for supporting mods

Elbaich pro springs

Camber bolts

Front and rear strutt braces

Whiteline roll center correction kit

Arb and droplinks

And the wide et rotas .

Makes fun it in the twistys [emoji6]