Made a home made made heat shield for the turbo.Every time I parked the car up in the evening I had to open the bonnet to get rid of the heat lol and since fitting my decat down pipe I carnt get my old heat shield back on as well as it falling to bits so I bought some heat proof material and cut it to size for now.I plan to wrap it though in prope foil type wrap at a later date but I think this will do for now.

 

 

 

Changed the oil yesterday for some car lube 10w/60 fully synthetic the drive is more smooth now.The oil I took out was !Removed! really black like its not been changed for years.I also changed my front pads and discs to find out one of my pots on the calipers was seized and the small mounting holes  for the calipers was stuck so not happy about that right now

In fact he's so unhappy he underlined everything.

In fact he's so unhappy he underlined everything.

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I don't no how that's happened lol

Oh I forgot to say the forester discs and calipers are the same as the Subaru impreza ones.I bought some new discs and pads yesterday with forester and impreza wrote on it.4 pot calipers will also go on but might need a a small spacer for wheels

Gutted about the caliper still an excuse for the upgrade ! Good news about the discs and pads being the same, I thought they were and was half thinking about changing them myself but just dont have the time, cars in for a few other bits doing next month so for the costing difference in an hours labour I'm payong someone else.

Are you on standard 16" rims ? Not sure the 4 pots will clear the wheels :'(

Im on std rims.4 pots will go on with a spacer.How ever if I change my caliper for a new one its just gonna be another 2 pot for now.Ive managed to free the sliders off now .Ive also took the piston out of the caliper and cleaned it up and greased the rubber seal for now.I can get a new caliper for £39 or get a new seal kit  for about £16.

Don't really want use grease on seals of the piston. should be lubricated for assembly with quality brake fluid & small amount of brake lube around seal & dust boot area to help prevent corrosion .

Slides can be greased but needs rubber safe veg oil/synthetic based lube ( normally red in colour, some specialist brake lubes are green).

Standard petroleum, lithium based greases damage the rubber, copper slip is also a bad one to use on slide pins.

Rubbers are gonna be changed very soon.It was only to free it up as I had nothing else to hand late at night and the car was needed.

Update.Took the car out this morning and the stuck brake caliper is no more and boy does it shift now with the td04 on it lol.I managed to get the old stuck slider out and sorted it.Im yet to sort the drivers slider out yet though it isn't that bad I will sort that out as soon as its dry weather because right now its !Removed! down.Also got a squeak coming from rear pads on drivers side which you can hear when your crawling along at 3 mph or so.Its obviously dragging on the disc so when the above two jobs are sorted it will be even better

Been a while since ive updated this.Since the new Caliper going on I upgraded the fuel pump to a 290 lph pump made by Sward.It was fine for a few weeks and things went sour with the pump to the point the Rac had to come out because I couldn't start it again.i was told it was a faulty pump and I was sent out a new one the next day.From there it was great again and a few days later I got a strage miss fire lol and couldn't track what it was.No eml came on the dash and it was so annoying.I tried a new lambda sensor and it wasn't that either.In the end it turned out to be a dodgy ht lead on cylinder number 1 lol.So ive got it to sit properly for now till Saturday when I will fit my new leads and gap my spark plugs down to 0.7.Ive also got some new front drop links ive been meaning to fit for over a month.next mods on the list are to lower the car nice and proper the way it should be.been looking at a few different set ups like a kit that does away with the rear self levelling shocks. :D

Got the front end dropped tonight and what a pain in the !Removed! that was.Im gonna fit the wagon springs tomorrow night and have it track.It will do till I get my forester springs made up

 

What was the problem mate? Just seized bolts and what not

I had to work round the brake hose that runs through a bracket in the front shock."what a sh*t idea that is.Ive got brand new rear shocks and estate springs for the rear so I will see how that goes tomorrow

And just to confirm wagon springs are estate springs arnt they?

Ah yeah, when we installed the new shocks on mine we just got a jr hacksaw cut the holder bent it out a little wriggled hose back in and bent the bit of metal back down again, who can be arsed removing and bleeding it all !

Looks agressive now ! Yep wagon/estate same difference [emoji16]

Could have removed the pegs though lol

Im using apex lowering wagon springs though will the rear still dip down

No idea mate, suppose depends on how stiff they are, all you can do is give them a try, what year are they from ?

What seats do you have in the front of yours ?

97-00 springs.For the shocks ive got brand new rear forester shocks

Been doing a lot of research on shocks and boost.The shocks I think is sorted I will talk about that later.Anyhow since owning my forester turbo and from what ive been reading book figures for the car ive seen is 170bhp and 177bhp which ever one that's surposed to be.Anyway since owning the car ive changed the turbo to a TD04 from a WRX and don't get me wrong there is a big difference but it never delivered boost like a WRX or various other models and I no it does need mapping to finish off.I have other mods fitted as well like a 3inch bell mouth decatted down pipe and decatted middle section as well.But anyway lol I was looking into restrictor pills,i have a 1.2mm one so what I did as a test was a tip from a mig welder just to see what would happen and well,the car picked up better it was an instant result but its no good because it shouldn't be there.Subarus wasn't sold with mig tips as you no lol.So the other thing I did was research Forester bov valves from lots of reading and asking  it turns out the Forester bov has two vac ports for the bov for a big reason.The reason is because the Forester has such a small turbo being the TF035,if boost wasn't controlled properly the little turbo would blow the engine to pieces so what Subaru did in a round about way is put two ports on the bov so when the boost comes on aggressive the second port closest to the intercooler opens up and some how controls the boost so its delivered smoothly so you don't get the Mach 2 effect lol.What happens over time is the bottom half of the bov blocks up and then some how leaks over time so your wont be making factory boost which is goverened also by the 1.2mm pill.I bypassed this to find the fault and now its a different car altogether lol but bear in mind I have the TD04 and not a TF035.So to sort future problems ive gone for the impreza bov valve which the import people already have like Stants for example.Im gonna change my pill to 1mm as well so this will give me roughly a bar of boost.Tonight on the way home though down the motorway I had to drive off boost because there is so much there now the Fu*kin clutch slips so ive got to drive like a pensioner lol.So gonna get a new clutch and get it rolling road to check everything is bob on then get my map after christmas

And.......breathe!

It took a while lol

Sorry didn'tbmanage to measure the diameter of the pil due to not having any replacment vac hose, the original's on it's last legs so didn't want to mess around with it, looks like you've managed to sort out whats what anyway [emoji16]

Stants with yours being a JDM import are you producing 240bhp?