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She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Hurrah! The PIN Code from the dealer worked and the alarm / immobiliser was disabled. The problem with the alarm going off does persist however, if I re-arm the system. I think I will just use the key for a while and get used to that.. The other good news is that with the car starting again, I was able to drive to my local garage where she passed her MOT without a single advisory this morning! Thanks to Dales Automotive in Barnoldswick for supplying the code 🙂 I might update the thread if I can get to the bottom of this alarm problem...

Thanks for the info! I've sieved the document pack to no avail, and so have approached my local Subaru garage to request a PIN, using my V5 and photo ID to verify my ownership. Of course, there is still that thorny issue of what to do with the PIN when it arrives! I had a (very expensive!) autoelectrician look at the car this afternoon - he got as far as diagnosing that the 'Integrated Unit Module showed no communication with ECU intermittently' before my time ran out - and he departed to another job. Nice work if you can get it! The car is still doing the thing, locking using the key fob (sometimes not) but not unlocking remotely. When the key goes into the ignition and is turned, the alarm kicks in and the immobiliser does it's thing, so the car won't start. Very frustrating! It feels like it must be something simple! But with my luck it is probably something terminal instead! 😞 I'm off to London tomorrow, so no more updates till Weds, but maybe, just maybe, the PIN thing will move us forward... Watch this space 🙂

Do you have a keypad inside the little flap by drivers' right knee which gives access to the interior fuse box? If so it's likely an OEM (Thatcham?) fitting. If so do you know the 4 or 5 digit PIN and if so does inputting the code make any difference?

Merry Christmas to the members of the Subaru Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

I recently spoke to a member of the sales staff at a UK Subaru dealership who informed me that as of the end of this year there will be no more new Subaru Outbacks (petrol) sold in the UK. There will be an electric option (yeah, well yipppeeee :( ). Don't you just adore the Great Global Climate Catastrophe Hoax supporters and their desperate ideological attempts to completely donald duck the whole car industry and empty fun and choice out of everyone'a lives . Now I'm not sure if I should try and time it so I buy one of the last ones, or just buy a Toyota Land cruiser (not the recent model!). Can't seem to see much else on the market that has above average car ground clearance, and permanent 4x4 functionality.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Its a 150 and nice one too without too many bells and whistles, personally i prefer cloth to leather. A 200 would have the V8 Diesel (the petrols listed are gery imports)and would typically be priced around that figure at 12 years old with 130k on the clock, lovely motor but for goodness sake. The one you've listed it would be interesting to know why its had 2 owners, might have been a demo, sometimes even the change of personal plate can come up as an ownership change, it looks in very good condition and unless something other than 2 owners is a cause for concern it would be one i'd be looking at, seems reasonably priced but there should be some room for wriggle in a private sale, in many ways i prefer a private sale because you get to see the previous owner and judge for yourself what the car has been through. After 2020 (from memory) they did various modifications to the engine, as you can see from one of the dash pics its got a manual DPF regen button which earlier models didn't get, though it shouldn't be needed because they've pretty well sorted earlier DPF issues by then, later ones like that 2022 model they've ironed out all the quirks. Remember the first place you go when looking at any LC underneath, that one looks clean enough to eat your dinner off any surface, it might be worth asking the seller if he'll take some random pics from underneath to send to you. 3ish years old, keep it serviced at Toyota you've got another 6 or 7 years makers warranty on all the important bits. Get your overalls on and get rustproofing you could have this or similar for umpteen years with only regular servicing and friction materials/tyre replacement (tyres are big and usually last between 40 and 50k) and when you decide to sell on LC enthusiasts will be beating a path to your door if its a genuine rust free example, the very high spec models tend to come with rear air suspension, which is great while it works but with the height sensors underneath unless you keep them protected can fail expensively,also the air pump isn't cheap, many high spec vehicles are retro fitted with steel springs and appropriate shocks via a kit as they age.

I have a 20 year old (prado sized) Landcruiser 120 LC5, been running full size Toyota 4x4s since the mid 90s and have yet to be let down by one, alternator packed up on the present steed a few years ago but she still never failed to proceed and i stuck a recon on for £126 ish, it'll probably still be going when they plant me. Underbody mainly chassis corrosion is what kills them in Britain, especially if they've previously lived in Scotland, mine is still mainly rust free because i plaster the undersides in ACF50/chain lube/marine grease every year, filthy job but worth doing, looking at MOT histories of other 120s and the very similar later 150s underbody corrosion features too often on the usual stuff, inner sills are also exposed to the elements and the rear axle casing will rot too, rear aircon pipes are alloy which again corrodes and is an expensive re-piping exercise, ask me how i know this. If you decide to get a late 150 series suggest you check it very carefully underneath and start rustproofing the day you get it home, other than rust they are good vehicles which seldom cause any issues if the servicing is kept up, seriously expensive used now and only going one way, the prices being asked for the V8 engined 200 series can only be described as ludicrous and whilst its a great vehicle its very technical too and also suffers the underbody tin worm issues which also affects the pipework of the hydraulic suspension which can cost serious money to repair, again mucho greasing and oiling is called for. Servicing is simple enough for most things DIY, but remember Toyota warranty is topped up every year if you get it serviced by them up to 10 years of age. I'm on both the UK Landcruiser forums, both of which are quiet because rarely do these vehicles go wrong, most common faults will be on the forums if you care to have a poke nose. Probably like yourself i'm not having a battery car, not in the least interested, good luck to all those who can take advantage of the tax breaks and cheap overnight home charging, i don't blame you one bit the cynic in me wonders how many would be in use if BIK tax rates were same as ICE cars and fuel duties were added to electricity charges, just wish the battery enthusiasts weren't quite so smug about it all. Course if you've got the money it makes good sense to grab one of the last proper Outbacks, then enjoy sticking two fingers up to the battery car scam and all its profiteers and political gamers for many years to come.

An update of the issue with AT Oil Temp light flashing after AT Speed Sensor being replaced. End up I found a garage who helped me clear the signal, and that's rather humiliating - it just need to lift the car up and run computer diagnosis for the car to learn the new sensor. According to the garage, all 4 wheels has to be able to run without weight for the car to reset. It means the previous mechanic who helped me replace the faulty AT Speed Sensor in fact did he work neatly, but then because he did that only on a pair of service ramp at my driveway, he's unable to lift the whole car up to run the reset. But then either he doesn't know the trick or he purposefully kept silent as he doesn't have a car lift anyway.

Re introducing myself to forum members forgot all my details until today when they flagged when I tried to rejoin (what a pi770ck)

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

I have a 2020 Gen 5 since new. Aside from some issues with the near side front brakes discs (see loooong rant from me elsewhere on this site) all has been good. Re my rant, I've just started taking the car to an independent Subaru specialist who are great, and the brake issue has been sorted I found the main dealers dreadful and Subaru UK (i.e the IM Group are appalling). I've clocked up 40,000 miles now. I really like the car (apart fromthe brake issues. Did I mentioned those? :) ). It's not very frugal mpg wise, but I knew that before i bought it. I get 31 miles average out of it. I am driving lots of B roads, very hilly and winding, and the car is often loaded (full size spare wheel, saddles, other equestrian stuff; spare tools, pump, emergency camping kit (!), etc.). I don't find it under powered at all, but then I'm no racer and this car isn't built for that. It compares to all my other cars well in performance (2x yetis, skoda octavias, etc.). Remember, it's permanent 4x4 not the weaker, less capable, 'on-demand haldex like systems the VAG have. It's great in winter with winter tyres on (or all-season). It has a massive load space. I'm 6' tall and regular car-camp in it in lay-bys or mountain roads and I can easily sleep in it with all the camping, climbing gear and such. This is my first automatic. I'd heard lots of negative things about CVTs, re performance. Never bothered me - all seems fine. Not sure it's the best for towing though due to cvt - but I guess you'll check out reviews with the Caravan club, etc. 200mm ground clearance (more on the newer Gen6) is great. Plus it has a 540 mm wade depth (still water) if needed - but I wouldn't want to push it. Odd things? All my older cars going back 15 years plus had a automatic service indicator and countdown - not on this! You have to check the on board car data, or remember yourself! Radio is rubbish compared to other cars I've had, but Carplay is good. Having an onboard satnav is great. I usually use my phone, but if out in the wilds of Scotland and places with no mobile signal the GPS works fine - and is essential at times). I don't think I'd take it to a standard garage, as there are query things that Subarus need. Like most modern cars it has 'sealed for life' components, like the CVT. This is obviously rubbish - nothing lasts for 'life', but should be ok for 100,000 miles, although if you're towing lots then this could be an issue. Overall, I love th car, but it's sad that the Gen7 won't be coming ot the UK or Europe now and when they stop making the Gen6 there will be no more Outbacks here, and only hybrid and EVs to choose from (no thanks!). Hope that helps.

Not had my Outback that long. It is a 2021 petrol, bought after a 2017 diesel Outback had emission sensor problems. I have had battery charging and mysterious headlight warning issues - see my earlier posts, but I do not think that is common. Although there are plenty of threads out there about batteries draining flat if you go down that rabbit hole. Mpg is about mid thirties with careful driving. Have had 42mpg on a long journey - a quiet M74 run to Glasgow on cruise control set at 60-65mph. Otherwise low 30’s. And lower if you use all 175 ponies. I like the car. Good luck. Frank

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

As long as you arnt ripping off members its all good 🙂

TBH subaru has never been a big seller in the uk, they arn't exactly customer focused like most other brands, my parents just picked up their brand new crosstrek a few weeks back and the choice's they had to make to select it were very limited, limited colour availability even from the very small options lisy, only 2 trim levels (which is basicly cloth and no sunroof or leather seats and sunroof) and only cvt gearbox creates a very limited customer base. Don't get me wrong, the crosstrek is a very nice car, its just from a customer experiance its you get what you get.

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

Many thanks Mr B. While I have the shocks off I will do corrosion management as per your post from 2016!;

I had a Legacy BP5 but sold that last year, ended going for a STI hatch but feel like I should have gone for one of these! Do miss the space

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

It has to be 5x114.3 stud pattern or it won't fit. You'll need to check the centre bore and offset - standard levorg numbers are 56.1 centre bore and 55 offset

New rear subframe with all new arms, bolts and hubs almost ready to transplant into the car, that will hack the mot tester of as he won’t be able to rust rear subframe comments anymore!

Thanks mate. It was a very nice journey home and a pleasure doing business with you. I hope the new Levorg goes well!

Sold now - hope you had a great journey home!

Thanks Samwell , the dealer managed to get some for me

https://www.gilesgateautocare.co.uk I took my car here in for its annual service and MOT in early December. I'd been fed-up with the quality of work at 3 previous Subaru dealerships. So now we're 3 months down the road, literally, and all is well. Nice bunch of guys, and they even wiped off the water stains in the engine bay and gave the car a sprucing up. It's only a 10 min. stroll into the centre of lovely Hexham while you wait, so really convenient.

Afternoon all, Just joined the forum after buying a 2012 WRX STi 340r Prodrive. Absolutely lovely car and very much enjoying driving and owning it. Though got a few questions! It has a semi forged engine, done around 45k now on 86k, according to the history its always been serviced with 10/40 oil fully synthetic. Would this be the correct grade? Seems quite thick to me given my old turbo 86 was 5/30 and my 25 year old Land Rover is 5/30 as well 😅 Could anyone direct me to a service schedule for the diffs and gearbox, and what oil I should be using. Looks to be 75w/90. Will be doing the fuel filter as well, any special tools needed for this? Looking to change all the oils and fluids soon as I can, so I can start with a everything fresh! No stranger to mechanics, been working and building Land Rovers for the last 15 years! Thank you, looking forward to it!

I've always had to slam the tailgate door down hard for the latch to catch closed - found the weatherstrip that runs along the bottom was not seated properly a while ago but even after putting that right it wasn't much better. A crack even started to appear in the plastic bumper cover under the o/s tail light with all the slamming down. Found that when I open the tailgate - if I hold the release button in for longer (3 to 5 seconds) it closes much better with a lot less force. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem - just have to fix the crack now 🙂

Hello Brack, No, the key fob doesn't deactivate the alarm or unlock the car. I have the original PIN now from a local Subaru dealer, so will give that a go in the morning. I have the alarm instruction booklet so will follow the guidance on page 10 as you say - as long as someone hasn't changed the PIN somewhere along the way - it is a 15 year old car I suppose! Report to follow 🙂

The pin number comes from the factory on small silver sticker labels - they could still be in your handbook wallet - mine are stapled to a form called "Subaru UK Certificate of Compliance" I found mine in the Alarm System Operating Instructions booklet. - worth a quick look.

Hello Brack, and thanks for replying 🙂 Replaced both batteries with new. No difference. Car still doesn't unlock on key fob, and alarm goes off / immobiliser kicks in when using key to unlock and enter. Sounds like something has fried itself at the receiver end. I don't know if it is a factory fitted or after market system (which apparently makes a difference) but it is dead either way. And now I can't find anyone locally to have a look at it, as all the so called autoelectricians are either booked up for weeks, or not willing to come out and want me to take the car to them (I suppose I could push it 😞 ) Blackburn really is a wasteland these days..

It looked narrow, you had a sensible speed .. nice video.

Nice little lane mate, lovely to see Forester's out and about 👍

You'll need this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273869963130?_skw=subaru+camshaft+locking+tool&itmmeta=01JHABXFSFBQ6F7QMGCRK5DTB2&hash=item3fc3ebff7a:g:VFwAAOSwntRcaqiN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmvdFG%2BRr9Zkjdf%2BBdZtAfxyV%2BRhT84XCf1uM2M%2BHar2zldDT9KVaerR5D1EqQVNF0zp0pDRM9%2BAMsu6Qk5paRFWfliSmZmZfauFoJoM5x4cD0lgwHJm0ZwBWwq5Y%2F2BrxLt4De0eAEtzBMFbWfhqkni5BARAz2bn9UcUgzC6XPuy9rLkLNiKQ%2FsX9GySK1P6VXoZsAc5reA%2BEnAZLhlXLkqwns2c70MshjNq7CwehDZ4GxQF0BenbglS0wzmXwqedF0th1GS%2F1ZQccvf%2BNDNUTKalPql1F1TVP3kFTfV%2F1BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9vz1y4pl Camshaft pulleys are metal and won't need changing.

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Thanks very much for the sound advice which I will follow. Also bought a jump start battery pack – belt and braces. A bit disappointing to hear it is common issue. But I have some good news about the loss of my satnav maps which you can see in my other post.

On a similar theme, I was in my local Subaru dealer this morning and saw a new sign encouraging me to update my details on the Subaru website so I would always receive special offers, latest news etc. I scanned the QR code on the sign only to find it sent me to the same “Sorry - page no longer exists”……..

My only experience of driving an e-boxer forester was two years ago as a courtesy car while my OB was being serviced. The Forester had less than 200 miles on the clock and it was the black 'sports' (?) version. First impressions (sitting in it) was that it seemed very comfortable and light. However, driving it was not pleasant. It was really slow, tank like, when accelerating from junctions and when pulling away at roundabouts when you wanted to join the flow of traffic. Noticeable slower than the OB. The member of staff I spoke to afterwards also agreed that they found the OB a much more pleasant drive. The stats state: Forester 0 - 62 11.8 secs Outback 0 - 62 10.8 secs. Neither are speedy cars of course, but the Forester was a sloth - that 1 sec difference was marked. Having said that, you do see them out and about so perhaps their owners are very content. Another negative, for me, is that the mpg for the OB is 32.8 while for the Forester it's still just 34.7 mpg. Hardly a great saving. Must be those heavy batteries. Plus you have a smaller fuel tank (48 litres vs 63 litres) in the Forester due to the batteries, so you get hardly much better mpg and you have a much reduced range. So if you're prepared to go slower and have to fill up more often on longer journeys...! Another big negative for me, is that you can't fit a spare wheel in the Forester (again because of the batteries). No car can pretend to offer aspirations of off-road capabilities if a spare isn't available. Overall I think the Forester looks the biz, but unless they offer a none hybrid and also either at least a 2.5 litre engine, or a turbo option, it's not for me. It'll be interesting to see how you find the Forester after the legacy for driving experience.

After a couple of months searching for a low mileage early Forester, and picked up this 53k miles one owner SF5 GLS in white. It seems to be in great condition and I’m looking forward to getting some miles under the wheels. The only issue I have found is that the radio aerial seems reluctant to come up when the radio is turned on. I’ve not had a Subaru before, but had Land Rovers for 35 years or so. So there will be a lot to learn. The forum will be really useful. Pete.

I've just listed the no longer needed winter wheel/tyre set from my Forester in the parts for sale section.

Thanks for that-much appreciated

I evaluated the new 2024 eBoxer Crosstrek Limited this week and feel that Subaru marketing has made a mistake. I was comparing it against my 2022 eBoxer XV SE, as a possible trade in. Downsides: 1. Engine bhp down to 136 from my XV's 147. 2. CVT paddle shift not available. Shortcomings: 1. Front camera dropped. 2. No wheel jack. 3. Much reduced number of power connectors for gadgets - only one 12v socket that is awkwardly located (XV has two, one at front, one in arm rest). Two USBs, one A & one C for rear passengers. Two USBs, one A & one C at front. (My XV has four USBs, two at front & two in arm rest. These can be adapted to Cs via the connecting cable, which of course is essential to connect the gadget whether SatNav, Dashcam, phone). 4. The roof bars have a different shape so my XV roof rails aren't compatible. Then comes styling and the awful touch screen, that is enormous at over 11 inches in portrait height. 5. The headlight bezel has been given a frog-eye form factor, like Nissan Juke. It is ugly against the more aerodynamic, smooth bezel of the XV headlights. 6. Surely, every driver now knows how difficult it can be to tap a touchscreen icon sweetspot in a moving car? Why is this? Because, the majority of our population is right-handed. So, for UK drivers, brain/hand coordination for one's left hand is less developed. Similarly for muscle development and coordination. So many (too many) function controls have been moved from knobs and switches onto the touch screen, with some being two tiers in. This means that a driver must take eyes off the road to effect their desired change, perhaps more than once in succession. Legislators have ruled against this with severe penalties for being distracted by using a mobile phone, for example. So it has always surprised me that this technology has been permitted within vehicle homologation applicable in UK. Knobs and switches can be used without needing to look at them - a bit like giant brail. Subaru made another big mistake in the Levorg. I bought one of these in 2016. It had a great 1600cc turbo engine, as I recall about 150-60 bhp. When I looked at this model a year or two later the turbo had been deleted leaving the engine with a miserly 89 bhp. No wonder it did not survive. I have owned six Subaru since 2006 - Impreza STi UK Spec, diesel Forester, XV, Levorg, XV, eBoxer XV. I might now be looking to change my allegiance if Subaru continues to design in disappoint.

Looks like wrx that has had some badges and a vin plate thrown at it. The VIN is a UK vin number, applied model code does indeed come back as a wrx sti prodrive uk, however i suspect its a ringer. The parts i notice that look wrong, running gear (rear diff is a R160 but should be R180) (2001 wont have DCCD even if it was an sti) gear stick should be lift reverse type, this one isnt so its a 5 speed box engine, no red inlet, missing alternator cover + various other covers and such interior, seats, (carpet was grey for the sti model so is correct) dash (dials should be blue, no intercooler spray buttons) fog lights brakes Wheels rear spoiler is STI replica (light should be at bottom for that year and angle is wrong) WRX headlights rear lights are from a later model one side of the front wing has a reflector, other carbon insert, should be carbon both sides The longer i look more i find, underside looks rather ropey, and for an sti its missing a digit in the price (Although not in the best condition). Short version, walk away. Just for ref, a genuine sti for sale https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202407302305530?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&make=Subaru&min-engine-power=250&model=Impreza&postcode=DE5 9TU&year-from=2001&year-to=2002&fromsra

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

Corrosion is number one thing look out for on these, surface rust is going be the norm and that can be surface treated, heavy corrosion can get quite expensive and if it not localised rust you be chasing you tail for no long term benefit . Also don't think newer means better, late 90's to 2002 era about some of best made . Do good checks using MOT history and good visual inspection and that means a real good long look and poke around underneath, rust doesn't always show itself but steel can be rotted and collapse under physical inspection . Is fairly easy find these pretty clean and not many keen on larger engines so prices can be low/easy haggle . I would be more sceptical of dealer sales than private and that comes from 30 years trade experience lol, 99% of the good stuff comes private sales, biggest ballache and pork pies always dealers .

Lookin nice. Don't forget the cardinal rule... always treat Mistress Scooby better than the mrs. I've spent more on mine than I have the Mrs in 19 years🤣

M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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