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She has finally arrived from Singapore now 😎 2.0 GT-S with 48,500kms on the clock

Hurrah! The PIN Code from the dealer worked and the alarm / immobiliser was disabled. The problem with the alarm going off does persist however, if I re-arm the system. I think I will just use the key for a while and get used to that.. The other good news is that with the car starting again, I was able to drive to my local garage where she passed her MOT without a single advisory this morning! Thanks to Dales Automotive in Barnoldswick for supplying the code 🙂 I might update the thread if I can get to the bottom of this alarm problem...

Thanks for the info! I've sieved the document pack to no avail, and so have approached my local Subaru garage to request a PIN, using my V5 and photo ID to verify my ownership. Of course, there is still that thorny issue of what to do with the PIN when it arrives! I had a (very expensive!) autoelectrician look at the car this afternoon - he got as far as diagnosing that the 'Integrated Unit Module showed no communication with ECU intermittently' before my time ran out - and he departed to another job. Nice work if you can get it! The car is still doing the thing, locking using the key fob (sometimes not) but not unlocking remotely. When the key goes into the ignition and is turned, the alarm kicks in and the immobiliser does it's thing, so the car won't start. Very frustrating! It feels like it must be something simple! But with my luck it is probably something terminal instead! 😞 I'm off to London tomorrow, so no more updates till Weds, but maybe, just maybe, the PIN thing will move us forward... Watch this space 🙂

Do you have a keypad inside the little flap by drivers' right knee which gives access to the interior fuse box? If so it's likely an OEM (Thatcham?) fitting. If so do you know the 4 or 5 digit PIN and if so does inputting the code make any difference?

Merry Christmas to the members of the Subaru Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

Hey folks, hope it's okay to jump on and post here. Long time Subaru owner and all round fan, but sadly it's time to let my lovely Levorg STi go to a new home. I have listed the car on Piston Heads but will include the details here. Please reach out if you have any questions or are interested. --- This Levorg STi was imported on my behalf by Torque GT around 3 years ago. I have loved every second of ownership and unfortunately personal circumstances force a reluctant sale. It has carried me through a pretty tumultuous time in my life! Having previously owned an imported Legacy GT, I knew I wanted something of similar performance with a few more comforts. The Levorg STi delivered. To me this has been a modern, fairly luxurious car, whilst still turning heads and getting a few smiles from the missus out of twisty lanes. The car has just had a service in preparation for its next owner, and some small paint smart repairs alongside a polish. MOT until October. This is a very honest car. It had Michelin Cross Climates put on it last year and they still have plenty of tread, paired with the 300hp this puts out you're guaranteed to have a little fun. Packed tonne of features (and especially the Subaru Eyesight system which is fantastic), some I may forget to list: - Full red leather interior with electric moving front seats - Heated seats - Power folding mirrors - Blindspot detection in the mirrors - Automatic headlights, with automatic high-beam/dipping - Rain sensors and automatic wipers - Adaptive cruise control - Lane assist (a personal favourite) - Lane exit detection and warning - Dual climate control - Parking sensors and reverse camera - Keyless entry Get in touch via SMS or WhatsApp please 07827019317.

Much appreciate your opinion and insights Judd.

Thanks for that info Judd and I will check out the forums too. I've been looking at something a bit like this one https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202505052055417?sort=price-desc&searchId=3ad54a54-2151-4185-8be2-d501efa62a98&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Diesel&make=Toyota&maximum-mileage=60000&model=Land Cruiser&page=4&postcode=DL12 0QY&year-from=2020&year-to=2024&fromsra Is that the 150 or 200 series? I'd not go for that one (too many owners for the age and it's a private sale, etc.) , just using it as an example. The invincible models seems to attract a hefty mark up - worth it? (I hope you're going to say no :) ) More choice with the Active trim too. Hardly any Icons trims. I like the utility version, but I don't think I'd convince my partner, with just 2 seats, as she's super sociable !

I have a 20 year old (prado sized) Landcruiser 120 LC5, been running full size Toyota 4x4s since the mid 90s and have yet to be let down by one, alternator packed up on the present steed a few years ago but she still never failed to proceed and i stuck a recon on for £126 ish, it'll probably still be going when they plant me. Underbody mainly chassis corrosion is what kills them in Britain, especially if they've previously lived in Scotland, mine is still mainly rust free because i plaster the undersides in ACF50/chain lube/marine grease every year, filthy job but worth doing, looking at MOT histories of other 120s and the very similar later 150s underbody corrosion features too often on the usual stuff, inner sills are also exposed to the elements and the rear axle casing will rot too, rear aircon pipes are alloy which again corrodes and is an expensive re-piping exercise, ask me how i know this. If you decide to get a late 150 series suggest you check it very carefully underneath and start rustproofing the day you get it home, other than rust they are good vehicles which seldom cause any issues if the servicing is kept up, seriously expensive used now and only going one way, the prices being asked for the V8 engined 200 series can only be described as ludicrous and whilst its a great vehicle its very technical too and also suffers the underbody tin worm issues which also affects the pipework of the hydraulic suspension which can cost serious money to repair, again mucho greasing and oiling is called for. Servicing is simple enough for most things DIY, but remember Toyota warranty is topped up every year if you get it serviced by them up to 10 years of age. I'm on both the UK Landcruiser forums, both of which are quiet because rarely do these vehicles go wrong, most common faults will be on the forums if you care to have a poke nose. Probably like yourself i'm not having a battery car, not in the least interested, good luck to all those who can take advantage of the tax breaks and cheap overnight home charging, i don't blame you one bit the cynic in me wonders how many would be in use if BIK tax rates were same as ICE cars and fuel duties were added to electricity charges, just wish the battery enthusiasts weren't quite so smug about it all. Course if you've got the money it makes good sense to grab one of the last proper Outbacks, then enjoy sticking two fingers up to the battery car scam and all its profiteers and political gamers for many years to come.

Re introducing myself to forum members forgot all my details until today when they flagged when I tried to rejoin (what a pi770ck)

Finally, I've managed to fix the mobile not connecting issue. It turns out that the upper USB port had been abused by the previous owner so it didn't hold the cable succurely resulting in the map app on the phone disconnecting all the time. Fixed it with a good quality USB A to C cable and using the unused lower USB socket (under the display unit) instead.

Well I was happily moving my 2022 eboxer into the car port from the driveway when suddenly an orange symbol appeared on the dashboard marked GPF with the information icon. I waded through the owners manual and learnt the following. The car is fitted with a GPF and just like a diesel it may require regeneration if the car is driven in urban conditions a lot in low temperatures. Personally I'd no idea that petrol cars had these or that the last generaton of the XV were fitted with these ,but subsequently learnt this is apparently a mandatory device under EU regulations since 2022. Now here's the thing. To conduct the regeneration you have to drive the car in manual gear mode without using cruise control at between 2000 and 2500 revs at a speed above 60kph for about 30 minutes and periodically take your foot off the accelerator. I live just off the M5 motorway so drove it on there . After 15 miles and about 20 minutes the warning light went out. I understand if it won't clear it then becomes a dealer job to force a regeneration. I searched Youtube and could find very little information about the GPF. I did however find a video of a guy with a 2024 Kia who had encountered the same issue. In his case he had to drive 80 kilometres to get his car to complete the regeneration so I feel very relieved mine only took 20 minutes. Would I have bought my Subaru if I had realised this was going to be an iussue. Well I bought a hybrid to avoid diesels with a DPF and it would have been nice to know I might have issues in the winter with short journeys. By the way once the regeneration had finished I noticed that the performance of the car improved dramatically. I only use 'branded' petrol and every two or three tankfuls refuel with Shell V power. Hope this information is of use.

Not had my Outback that long. It is a 2021 petrol, bought after a 2017 diesel Outback had emission sensor problems. I have had battery charging and mysterious headlight warning issues - see my earlier posts, but I do not think that is common. Although there are plenty of threads out there about batteries draining flat if you go down that rabbit hole. Mpg is about mid thirties with careful driving. Have had 42mpg on a long journey - a quiet M74 run to Glasgow on cruise control set at 60-65mph. Otherwise low 30’s. And lower if you use all 175 ponies. I like the car. Good luck. Frank

thank you

it's the washer jet cover i think, just as an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205044437045?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1W3C0KZ6XTJe4XT-Bjxyxug0&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-173151-921626-2&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=205044437045&targetid=2407181292431&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=9191192&campaignid=22444727999&mkgroupid=179474130633&rlsatarget=pla-2407181292431&abcId=10267179&merchantid=118945996&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlMfABhCWARIsADGXdy9fleo4cK-iGrgwoaAelZPMcUhtrhTBQxpJFkf42g-5TnhGZeYCqG0aAgCEEALw_wcB

As long as you arnt ripping off members its all good 🙂

Morning, thanks for your feedback. When I get an opportunity, I'll investigate both options. The noise from the glove box occurs full or empty (mind you I do find the size of the glove box quite small compared to the previous model and other cars!) Cheers, Allan

TBH subaru has never been a big seller in the uk, they arn't exactly customer focused like most other brands, my parents just picked up their brand new crosstrek a few weeks back and the choice's they had to make to select it were very limited, limited colour availability even from the very small options lisy, only 2 trim levels (which is basicly cloth and no sunroof or leather seats and sunroof) and only cvt gearbox creates a very limited customer base. Don't get me wrong, the crosstrek is a very nice car, its just from a customer experiance its you get what you get.

I can't comment on a Levorg as haven't been in one but as for the dealer network and support from Subaru towards their product, my experience has been that Subaru in the UK is almost non-existent. Examples impacting me are closures recently of my two nearest dealers (Woodford and Maidstone) so there are none in Kent and only Robertsbridge in Sussex should I need them (rarely, prefer to do my own work where possible). Others experience may vary.

I had a Legacy BP5 but sold that last year, ended going for a STI hatch but feel like I should have gone for one of these! Do miss the space

It's not on the road yet, as going for MOT tomorrow then I have to wait for the DVLA to register it. I'm coming directly from a BH5 Legacy twin turbo, but have owned a number of Subaru's over the years (see below)

It has to be 5x114.3 stud pattern or it won't fit. You'll need to check the centre bore and offset - standard levorg numbers are 56.1 centre bore and 55 offset

New rear subframe with all new arms, bolts and hubs almost ready to transplant into the car, that will hack the mot tester of as he won’t be able to rust rear subframe comments anymore!

Got it to Pass today while it was hot. Thanks

Thanks mate. It was a very nice journey home and a pleasure doing business with you. I hope the new Levorg goes well!

Sold now - hope you had a great journey home!

Thanks Samwell , the dealer managed to get some for me

https://www.gilesgateautocare.co.uk I took my car here in for its annual service and MOT in early December. I'd been fed-up with the quality of work at 3 previous Subaru dealerships. So now we're 3 months down the road, literally, and all is well. Nice bunch of guys, and they even wiped off the water stains in the engine bay and gave the car a sprucing up. It's only a 10 min. stroll into the centre of lovely Hexham while you wait, so really convenient.

I've taken all of my cars to them for years. Chris, Paul and Scott - you couldn't wish for better people to look after your cars. My soon to arrive Levorg will be going there next month

Is a few slight variations in subframes depending on exact months built and regional market specific models but general rule of thumb if part off same region and same year it will fit, when those factors vary you may get issue or few to make it fit but most of the time biggest part of it still be same ...

Many thanks Justin Time: It's the Wifi !!! See image attachment. My tools: https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/mxs-5-0-uk https://carbatterygeek.co.uk/bm6-battery-monitor-review-12v-car/ I hope you can read the annotation, but it shows the battery dropping back to around 12.2V only 30hrs after a full charge (and presumably on its way to totally discharged). As soon as the WiFi is disabled it holds steady. So, since I turned the Wifi off, it has not dropped another decimal volt for 10hrs. I'll get it back to full charge again with the CTEK and see if this continues. I know this little BM6 device is not totally scientific but it's cheap and useful and saves the hassle of constant multimeter readings. The values it presents are two decimal places the same as the value on the cigarette lighter voltage monitor. I've never had to do this sort of stuff in 40yrs of owning cars. I don't think it's just Subaru.

I've always had to slam the tailgate door down hard for the latch to catch closed - found the weatherstrip that runs along the bottom was not seated properly a while ago but even after putting that right it wasn't much better. A crack even started to appear in the plastic bumper cover under the o/s tail light with all the slamming down. Found that when I open the tailgate - if I hold the release button in for longer (3 to 5 seconds) it closes much better with a lot less force. Hope this helps anyone with the same problem - just have to fix the crack now 🙂

Sometimes it the wiring broken at transition flex point to the boot lid . Can't beat the old mechanical handle, mine 25 years old and works same as when come out of factory . The sensor switch boot releases are complete garbage, nothing but hassle and expense, lot of models get water ingress into the switch board (big problems on multi function module/boards that canbus integrated). On some model cars where this incorporates into reverse camera & perhaps even rear wiper all in one the problems caused and cost to resolve gets silly. when linked into canbus networks can completely disable the vehicle and it needs flatbed recovery. Very rare I get to do a diag/repair bill under £300 for resolving this electronic garbage faults, 400 to £800 don't go far sorting this p155 poor engineering concept & low cost component choice of the vehicle manufacturers . No make regardless of prestige/price are exempt from this ... Basically the newer you go the worse it getting in terms of reliability and cost to repair faults . New cars environmental benefits would seem be none judging by the parts bins and service chemical consumption increase I getting . Since Hybrids I do battery recycling by the pallet monthly through winter, pretty much 3 times the battery waste I got pre Hybrid . Cleaner numbers out tailpipe but everywhere else it much worse !

The pin number comes from the factory on small silver sticker labels - they could still be in your handbook wallet - mine are stapled to a form called "Subaru UK Certificate of Compliance" I found mine in the Alarm System Operating Instructions booklet. - worth a quick look.

Hello Brack, and thanks for replying 🙂 Replaced both batteries with new. No difference. Car still doesn't unlock on key fob, and alarm goes off / immobiliser kicks in when using key to unlock and enter. Sounds like something has fried itself at the receiver end. I don't know if it is a factory fitted or after market system (which apparently makes a difference) but it is dead either way. And now I can't find anyone locally to have a look at it, as all the so called autoelectricians are either booked up for weeks, or not willing to come out and want me to take the car to them (I suppose I could push it 😞 ) Blackburn really is a wasteland these days..

I'd try putting a new battery into one of the fobs anyway and try it - look for the sell by date on the new battery blister pack - your 4 month old battery could be a lot older than you think, it could be months and months before they are sold and you end up with a battery that wont last as long as it should.

You'll need this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273869963130?_skw=subaru+camshaft+locking+tool&itmmeta=01JHABXFSFBQ6F7QMGCRK5DTB2&hash=item3fc3ebff7a:g:VFwAAOSwntRcaqiN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmvdFG%2BRr9Zkjdf%2BBdZtAfxyV%2BRhT84XCf1uM2M%2BHar2zldDT9KVaerR5D1EqQVNF0zp0pDRM9%2BAMsu6Qk5paRFWfliSmZmZfauFoJoM5x4cD0lgwHJm0ZwBWwq5Y%2F2BrxLt4De0eAEtzBMFbWfhqkni5BARAz2bn9UcUgzC6XPuy9rLkLNiKQ%2FsX9GySK1P6VXoZsAc5reA%2BEnAZLhlXLkqwns2c70MshjNq7CwehDZ4GxQF0BenbglS0wzmXwqedF0th1GS%2F1ZQccvf%2BNDNUTKalPql1F1TVP3kFTfV%2F1BA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM9vz1y4pl Camshaft pulleys are metal and won't need changing.

Thanks Linx .I seached for weeks before I got some real help from your stuning post!.

Good news, I got my maps back. The Subaru Customer Support replied quickly with a detailed step by step procedure to regain the maps. It looked a bit daunting but with patience it worked. The only hitch in the process is that the USB stick has to be plugged in after opening the map update window. It didn’t register when I first put it in. I will copy the steps below for anyone else to use. This is the email reply I received: Thank You for contacting Subaru (UK) Ltd. I will try and help you with your map issue, if you have lost your UK map, it sounds like you may have started a UK Map update 'in car' via a Wi-Fi connection, and then it lost connection/lost connectivity - the first thing it does is delete the current map, then apply the update, if the update fails, you have no map... The only way to fix this now is to carry out a FULL map reload via USB stick, using the maps website. I'm going to give you all the information, so apologies if you are much further ahead. For your information, the maps installed on your car can be updated to the latest map release using website: http://subaru-maps.com When using the subaru-maps website you create a user-account, add your vehicles VIN, type in your Request Code off the Head Unit to obtain your Authentication Code, then download and install the 'Map Downloader' app, open this and log in (also using the same credentials as the website) to view and physically download any updated maps available for your car. Once the USB stick has been created, insert it in the car, then type in the Activation Code you obtained from the website when prompted to authorise the install. I know this all sounds complicated, so I have attached some visual instructions as a PDF - I hope these help explain the process a little better. Lastly, the app and the QR code - unfortunately the app is only compatible for the EV vehicles, eg the SOLTERRA currently, it will not work with your Outback. I will attach the pdf mentioned above. Hope someone finds it useful. Activation Code on HARMAN maps-Dec-02-2024-03-43-40-7464-PM.pdf

Quite a few available but not direct in UK You could look at getting one fabricated but unless you got access to cheap materials and fabricator friend it will cost more . https://www.offroadmanni.eu/Skid-plate-for-Subaru-Forester-SF-2-mm-steel-engine https://get-primitive.com/product/armor-skidplates-and-protection/front-skidplates/front-skidplate-1998-2002-forester/

After a couple of months searching for a low mileage early Forester, and picked up this 53k miles one owner SF5 GLS in white. It seems to be in great condition and I’m looking forward to getting some miles under the wheels. The only issue I have found is that the radio aerial seems reluctant to come up when the radio is turned on. I’ve not had a Subaru before, but had Land Rovers for 35 years or so. So there will be a lot to learn. The forum will be really useful. Pete.

Thanks for that-much appreciated

Update. Got it sorted, the CV joint comes off in two parts, there is a little retaining clip around the top lip of the joint, pop that off and it hits right off.

I had my CVT service done last week by Tweedmouth service station ( Subaru main dealer) , they also removed sump and replaced the filter mesh screen (Which does break down as has nylon mesh screens that start to deteriorate with time) (they also remove the sump magnet and clean that as well as cleaning the sump pan of any debris ), as a result of removing this they get more CVT fluid out than a simple drain plug change. Then once back together do a fluid change using Subaru green fluid. The whole job was done for the same price that a S non franchised Subaru specialist quoted me for just a fluid change Ie not the filter screen or sump clean), and was cheaper than a non Subaru specialist auto transmission centre quoted me again for just a fluid change. The Customer service is excellent at Tweedmouth Service station Berwick upon Tweed. . I had been quoted £600 but the job came in at £425. That said i was getting some warranty work carried out so the price might have been slightly offset by that work. Jake

Looks like wrx that has had some badges and a vin plate thrown at it. The VIN is a UK vin number, applied model code does indeed come back as a wrx sti prodrive uk, however i suspect its a ringer. The parts i notice that look wrong, running gear (rear diff is a R160 but should be R180) (2001 wont have DCCD even if it was an sti) gear stick should be lift reverse type, this one isnt so its a 5 speed box engine, no red inlet, missing alternator cover + various other covers and such interior, seats, (carpet was grey for the sti model so is correct) dash (dials should be blue, no intercooler spray buttons) fog lights brakes Wheels rear spoiler is STI replica (light should be at bottom for that year and angle is wrong) WRX headlights rear lights are from a later model one side of the front wing has a reflector, other carbon insert, should be carbon both sides The longer i look more i find, underside looks rather ropey, and for an sti its missing a digit in the price (Although not in the best condition). Short version, walk away. Just for ref, a genuine sti for sale https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202407302305530?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&make=Subaru&min-engine-power=250&model=Impreza&postcode=DE5 9TU&year-from=2001&year-to=2002&fromsra

not like mine no selectable diff control or intercooler spray in the cabin. small intercooler intake. etc

Thanks all for your input - sorry to hear about your issues @Justin Time - will keep a close eye on brake issues after this! and thanks @Hippo for the vote of confidence So I pulled the trigger on a low milage 2021 gen 5 which I picked up last week - I have to say I am absolutely loving it, and feel that I have absolutely made the right choice stepping into the Subaru club….after a week of driving even more perplexed by how much they get such middling reviews in the press….I’m not used to driving particularly fast cars, but it certainly feels more than punchy enough…it doesn’t particularly feel much slower in the real world than my wife’s xc40 which does 0-60 in sub-8.0 seconds.. aside from that great comfort, ridiculous amounts of space, and imo great sharp handling for such a big car (came with Michelin cross climates which might help) one happy buyer here!

Lookin nice. Don't forget the cardinal rule... always treat Mistress Scooby better than the mrs. I've spent more on mine than I have the Mrs in 19 years🤣

M30 alarm document link > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7Ub2apq5-pfcjJhSm5XUHNyUzQ/view?usp=sharing

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