Siluro

Horrible situation. From your last post it sounds heat related in some way. Does it make the noise if the car is switched off for 5 minutes when the engine is warm? What bugs me is why only 7mph. Clutching at straws but could something need bleeding like power steering? Do not know anything about auto trans but do they need fluid and bleeding in anyway?

Based on your thread posts and that video I would say it is not the brakes, but without seeing the car I would not put money on it. If it was the brakes it would not just be at 7mph, surely it would be either side of that by some MPH. How many miles do you do? For a 2018/19 XV to have lipped the disks already seems a bit soon?

The noise at 45 seconds does not sound like grinding to me (more like pressure being released), and I cannot hear anything after this. Does not help with the high pitch sound. Sorry but I could not make out any grinding in the video. Listen with headphones too.

They only made 75 for the UK i believe, is that correct?

Unfortunately some clown drove into me and I took it there for the panel repairs (covered by 3rd party insurance). While it was there I thought would get them to do a few simple things, big mistake. They are absolutely clueless. Dashcam rescued me with the crash and filmed the dealership clowns doing everything very badly. Even caught them treating other cars in their workshop very badly, and then there was the test drive just to top it off. I made them squirm.

Put this way my car is never going to this Subaru dealership ever again. This is just the tip of the iceberg. They did not treat my Scooby very well. They paid for it though.

@ROSSCOSM Your not the only one, I did the same when I first got mine. Even Subaru dealership had to phone me to work out how to start it.

andy3665 what did you decide?

Welcome. Sorry but in the 2nd picture the scooby is overwhelmed by the green monster. Nice Charger. The scooby does not even catch my eye but it is lovely.

Just making sure there is at least one post today do not want to stop the run. One more extra to the 400. Daryl 203 posts in a week jesus, we all must have too much time on our hands lol.

Hi Marc lovely motor, do not see many of those in UK. I only know of one locally. I know what you mean about Scoobies. My dad years ago could not find a car he liked, had to be new company car. He test drove Fords, Mazda etc but did not like any. I told him to try a Subaru which was not even on his radar. He said he jumped in a Classic Impreza 2.0 Sport (which I bought off him eventually) and drove 1/2 mile and bingo he instantly knew this was the car he wanted. This was in 1998 and he has had Subaru's ever since, XV currently. Before I sold the classic he had one last go and said it is like meeting up again with an old friend. My problem now is when the sad day comes to get rid of my 2007 WRX is what the fook am I going to replace it with. Just thought I might use this post to inspire my old man >70 to get rid of his diesel XV and look for something like this.

When he gets the exhaust all done and the sensor put back it may well all go away, fingers crossed. At least that will be eliminated soon. Are the TGV a pain to replace or just a matter of removing stuff. Does not look too bad but I have never done it.

I always though bank referred to the bank of cylinders, bank 1 being the bank with no.1 cylinder in the firing order not a section of exhaust but could be. Bank number for each sensor, hmm misleading. If it was an inline it would make no difference, hence i thought it could be just generic and only useful on v8 or something which would have a sensor per bank. flat 4 being 4 cylinder is just recognised as a normal inline. Whatever it is it is as clear as mud.

She should sound nicer now too as a bonus with non standard resonator.

!Removed! hell just noticed within less than a week Darly has become an advanced member must be some sort of record too. 192 posts. Took me well over a year to have that many posts. Wicked

At least you can log the data and hopefully by process of elimination find the problem. Going back and fourth on this thread is starting to become painfull (don't take this the wrong way daryl) 350 posts lol. Please keep us posted.

Stuartie to the rescue.

Yes the center section or the part after I marked on the diagram does not have a cat but a resonator. If that bit is the problem then the sensor is probably ok and it must be something else e.g. TGV. I would rather it be the O2 sensor. I hopefully have not confused Daryl.

If the piece below is foobar then it has an O2 sensor according to this diagram. If it the section after this then this is after the O2 sensor and would not trigger a check engine light and the issue is something else e.g. tgv. Which part of the exhaust has holes? Have we established which part of the exhaust has gone?

No it will not damage by removing the battery. No one is sure as they do not have a wagon. Just go and have a look for your self.

This is what we need to establish. Not sure if the light is connected to the exhaust/sensor or the tgv. I would have 1st removed the check engine light with the reader(lol) and tested it hoping it was a glitch. If it came back on I would have tested the O2 sensor with Multi meter or OBD bluetooth dongle (logging) to see if that was foobar as it quite easy to access. If O2 sensor is ok then it must either be the CAT (which you say needs replacing) or the TGV. If CAT has holes I would have ordered this anyway. If O2 sensor is foobar then bingo, new CAT and sensor sorted. If still failed then I would look at the TGV and start researching this part. When you test drive after resetting the ECU you may need to do a few miles before it relearns. The light may not come instantly for a fault.

This what we said to do when you got your OBD reader but it did not work. Yes the light could be a glitch but judging by the description of the exhaust section it probably is not. I would still do this test if possible.

I would just get the center section and use the old lamda sensor first. If not any better then lamda sensor. That is of course you can get the old one out without breaking it or at all if it is heavily rusted. All based on this 300+ threads but I might take a different route if I could be there.

Just to maybe confuse things the code may be generic for 4 cylinder cars which are usually inline. You could just ignore the bank reference unless V config motor. Kind of falls apart if you own a Bugatti Veyron with a W16 not that you would even give damn if you had one as you get one of your peasants to sort it out for while you take the Bently out. Anyway it could still lead to the sensor if the above is true. Subarus do tick over lower than most cars mine is around 700rpm when warm not sure about a 2.0 turbo though. All i have owned also have a little wobble on tickover exactly to rhythm which i kind of like. Flat fours only really balance when at high rpm. If anyone can explain the wobble I would like to know. I thought it maybe dealing with too much fuel.

If it is the O2 sensor here is one from icp. OEM Part number is:22690AA520 https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=9639&cat=96&sub=183&sec=403&var=47&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= Maybe Stuartie is right how could one sensor in a single pipe detect a single bank of pistons. Look on the bright side at least it is not a head gasket or bottom end. If original exhaust etc they are getting old now so it should be expect to a certain degree. PUT THAT SLEDGEHAMMER DOWN NOW.