savage bulldogs

My brv had a set of 18's for a while , they ruined the ride and handling so he switched back to 17's . I've never run anything but 17's so couldn't say what the 16's are like . If you do intend on uprating the brakes to 4 pots on the front at a later date, make sure the 16's you buy will clear them [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like a nice 2 door newage conversion there dog [emoji106] David either take a turbo subaru out for a test drive or strap a super charger to your 6 pot one [emoji48] As for Me I'm starting to get cabin fever being stuck indoors cos it's too cold [emoji30] C'mon spring I wanna fit my parallel fuel rails ,turbo and z32 maf [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi and welcome Unfortunately I don't think the early pre 96 esl daughter board has all the same functions as the v3 onwards one but they might have updated the software. Best bet would be to shoot a email to a mapper that deals with esl or Andy Stevens who makes the esl chips to find out a full list of functions for your year As for what else to get prior to having another remap . If your current injectors are the standard grey 380cc ones uprate them to yellow 440's and a decat downpipe should see 320 hp ish I'd also upgrade the front brakes ,if you've still got the standard 2 pots up front before aiming for more ponies [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

v1 to v4 heads have the same " inline " stud patterns on the heads. Whereas V5 (my 99) onwards heads are not a direct fit to v1 to v4 inlets It's probably had a v1 my 93/94 long engine fitted to your inlet . which is not a issue I had one in my old 97 UK turbo 2000 . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does look like a closed deck which are generally only found in 93 to 94 imprezas . It's got a v3 /v4 phase 1.5 inlet set up which is right for the year of the car ,so it's probably got a pre 95 bottom end . So if you need any engine bits look for gc8 v3/v4 compatible parts . Health wise a good service and a dyno run is always a good starting point imo If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome ,Sounds like you've got yourself a bargain bud 👍 Always glad to here a classic being restored rather than broke for bits . A little bit of conflicting info off the previous owner (yr 2000 didn't have closed deck ) it's a version 3 shell which should have phase 1.5 inlet /fuel rail set up but a pic of the bay can confirm that. My classic was just supposed to have a cat back and remap but they do get under your skin I think the passenger rear door and boot lid are the only original bits left lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Apexi is a bit "old school" but I like the the fact that you can monitor most things on the fly . I think I'm gonna get a afr gauge soon as although my mappers set the eml to flash if I hit any parameters I'd like a visual gauge to check . Need to find my speed sensor wiring fault first as the avcr hasn't got a working "vehicle speed " input atm so doesn't have the ability to equal the boost targets in each gear like it should [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a bit of a play with a x plate evo this evening ,the scoob seemed to love the colder air and was pulling hard under boost (proppa rinsed him) [emoji12] When i Got back and checked the peak holds on the fc and avcr they were all good....... apart from hitting 1.76 bar Think I need to get the "gear judge" function set up on the avcr sooner rather than later [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I don't know what the codes mean or much about hawks but did you remove the tps from the throttle body? Cos on classics if you remove the tps you have to mark it up first so it goes back in exactly the same position to give the same reading as before If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

26 to 30 psi is the standard fuel pressure pending on the manifold vacuum /engine load on a classic impreza . you'd have to get a garage to measure the pressure by fitting a inline gauge . If you did have a change in pressure it would probably run a bit rough, as the injectors would be opening for the same duration but not squirting the right amount of fuel . check the pump tank access hatch is sealed correctly and fuel system vapour lines to the charcoal canister are ok . During the colder weather it will automatically be a bit richer(especially on start up ) as the colder air is denser so it needs more fuel on cold start to equal the air fuel ratio also if it's a jdm the standard map will probably be set for a higher octane fuel and the ecu would add more fuel to achieve the maps parameters But it's always worth checking out if you think you've possibly got a leak If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Good clean classics are fetching better money than bugs or early blobs . As Jay says prices for good scoobs seem to be going up a bit, probably cos fuel prices are a bit better lately If it's not broke .....upgrade it

If your changing the turbo and getting it mapped check if your year of wrx has a pre cat in the upipe. As the sti or aftermarket up pipes don't have the pre cat in and are less restrictive

I'm a proppa novice at the 1/4 [emoji4] went to both japshow weekends and a had a go last year . Really enjoyed it ,well apart from missing 3rd on 1 run and getting a 15.2 [emoji16] It was quite a buzz [emoji41] The uk 6 speed conversion means I cross the line in 5 th are you still in 4 th ? I run red line shock proof oil from the states it seems to have good reviews If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Sorry just read that is was a light on the new gauges ,I thought it was the oe pressure light on the dash . It might just be that subaru put a bung in the hottest part of the engine (above cyl 3) as that's the best place to get a max reading. Most other oil temp sensors work off a sandwich plate attached to the oil filter (probably in the coolest place on the outside of the block) and it might just have been set up to compensate for it . If it's not broke .....upgrade it

On both my standard 97 UK lump and the forged lump (with a rcm oil pump) normal driving in the winter (5° outside ) my hot temps are 85° to 92°and idle @ 1.8 to 2.1 bar Bit of boost in the summer (25° outside) my hot temps are 95° to 108° (max) and idle 1.5 bar at the lowest . But I use 10w 60 millers nano drive oil in my current forged lump and 10 w 40 millers fully synthetic in the piston slappy uk engine. Of course different gauges and senders won't necessarily read the same but I'd check the levels and for leaks, as the oil light shouldn't flicker on . If it's not broke .....upgrade it

That's a good time for a 300hp newage , I only managed 13.3 in my 330hp classic . Will admit I do need the practice as I've only ever done the 1/4 mile 4 time's (and didn't want to break my daily driver lol ) I think the spec c blobeyes have lighter glass and possibly bootlids but other than removing the rear window motors I can't think of how else you'd save weight. What about anti lag or a few more bar of boost mapped in ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Gutted that you think the engines gone but glad you're sticking with it [emoji106] Have you checked the spark plugs for oil deposits or done a compression test (to make sure it's fubar'd ) If it's a early 95 it might have a closed deck block which are good for big power (with the right internals) Cdb's are normally identified by the #### marks on the modine under the alternator it's a slippery slope and if you've read my build thread you know I'm not lying lol . Easiest way to make sure a 2ltr ,2.1 ltr or 2.5 ltr engine will fit into a v2 phase 1 scoob. Is to use v1 to v4 heads as they will bolt directly to your v2 inlet manifold ,auxiliaries and loom . I'm unsure if the 2ltr heads need machine work to make them fit a 2.5ltr due to the bigger bore pistons but they will go directly onto a 2.1 . Well once you've calculated the headgasket thickness to achieve the 8.5.1 ideal compression ratio . You'll ideally need to add a 6 speed conversion ( £1500 + fitting) or a 5 speed ppg box (£2k + fitting ) to your shopping list. As my classic 5 speed ate 3rd at 330 ish hp .The later blob or hawk 5 speeds have been known to run 400hp but it's fairly close to their limits . If you're lucky that there's not too much damage to your bores, a over bore ,a set of 0.5 mm oversized forged pistons and newage sti rods mated to a standard crank would be the cheapest 400hp build option (sub £2k ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it

I don't often use it or hoon about anyways but it's handy for the average speed cameras or when I'm in a scooby convoy on the way too a meet/show [emoji4] As my kmph to mph converter reads slightly different to my sat nav/road angel If it's not broke .....upgrade it

It's a road angel ,stants [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

At last the Avcr is in and working [emoji41] It's difficult to say exactly how much earlier it spools but a recon it hits 1.4 bar about 400 rpm sooner now [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

What year / model is it and Have you had the ecu codes read ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

shouldn't be too bad [emoji16] I know which pin out on the ecu each of the 6 wires have to splice into . So (in theory) I should just have to strip a bit of insulation off ,solder the wire in and heatshrink some new insulation over the join Easy ..... honest [emoji55] I wouldn't say I feel fresh yet though, cos I'm still hanging a bit ...... Think I need a beer [emoji5] If it's not broke .....upgrade it

The reason the revs change is when you take the vac line off the top of the dump valve. The vac line end is open allowing unmetered and unfiltered air to be sucked into the inlet which affects the mixture /idle What is the issue or fault your trying to find? If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Guess the beer goggles missed the bit about you only having "1 code and the rest is a helpful list" Should know to steer clear of the tech advice when rat ar5ed by now lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it

Feeling as rough as a bears ar5e but I did manage to get the avcr and sensors in situ. And for someone who fitted a 4 in 1 gauge because I didn't like to many gauges I've certainly ended up with a few "distractions " in my field of view lol Just got this birds nest to cut n splice to get the avcr finally working But I don't trust my blurry hangover head to start hacking the loom about today [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it