savage bulldogs

Hi n welcome , lovely looking classic you've got there [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Either that or shoot em a email and order the new bits then swap em over [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it's a friend of mine and I'll strip and prep it (hi build stone chips n minor dents) while he pulls the major dents out and paints the preface bonnet and 2 new front wings I spoke to them about refurbs and they do them in house but you can buy a single unit for about £125 . It's more corrosion around the threads that I've seen on 6 month bc's that I want to avoid If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did think about wrapping it but I need a few dents pulled and can probably get that done and full respray for about £1,200 . I do change my mind a lot, so things might take a different direction once I'm happy with the mechanicals [emoji39] How long have you had the zeta's Geoff? Any signs of wear or corrosion? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I don't wanna slam it and have to plan my route around missing speed bumps on the way .just a 40mm drop from a wrx or 10mm lower than a standard sti should do me nicely [emoji41] Probably should be keeping my cash for a respray but I'm bored and it's burning a hole in my pocket [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it should be just over £800 + delivery. They're still gonna cost me another £100 on top .... Cos I've gotta wine n dine the Mrs over the weekend to loosen the purse strings [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mine had teins on it when my brv had it stants ..... too harsh for a daily driver imo plus if I end up with anymore "gauges" on my scoobs dash I don't think I'll be able to see lol This deal is available on the one's I'm eyeing up http://www.scoobynet.com/group-buys-439/1030876-meisterr-20-off-coilovers-group-buy.html £650 delivered for coilovers, rear dampener extenders and anti corrosion spray [emoji6] P.s thought I'd add I only found the deal while looking for feedback/ reviews . Haven't found a bad review yet and most say they're far better for road use that "crashy" b.c's due to the faster reaction from them when you hit a bump [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Spent most of the morning looking at the "buy it now" button .... Coilover or not too coilover that's the question [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah pre 96 cars have a old school mechanical cable to drive the speedo . It might have popped out either end but if it is faulty it has a upper an lower section with different part numbers Ticking noise could be a blowing upipe or downpipe join (They can be a pain to seal) How did you get on with the other issues? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The fronts just bolt on but I'm unsure about the rears If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

There's pro's n cons with both, I'm currently considering buying coilovers for my classic (mainly because I'm bored and partly because my rear arches have already been rolled ) Coilovers do give you more adjustment over the height and damper but I think most of them are aimed at track use, so are quite stiff even on a soft setting. Service wise coilovers do tend to cost a fair bit to get refurbished whereas with separate shocks,springs and top mounts you can just buy the individual part that's failed. If there's not a uk refurber, you could end up spending a fortune on shipping and waiting a long time to get coilovers back (so I'd bear that in mind when choosing a brand) I'm still undecided which way I'll go as I'm quite happy with the current handling and comfort the elbaich springs,oe shocks and group n top mounts give ..... But I do like the look of the meister zeta r coilovers as they seem to get good reviews and are aimed at mainly fast road rather than track (so hopefully they won't make my daily a tooth chipper ) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just a guess, the v3 has preface clocks (non digital readout with black faces) if the ecu you've got is for a v3 it would have the same plug type but not necessarily the same pinorder. Have you cross referenced the ecu code and the model code of the car as this might explain the posible difference in pins and the electrical symptoms. Otherwise check for breaks in the insulation in the car and engine loom. Especially around the grey plugs at the ends of the engine loom . I haven't seen a v4 key fob before and my v3 uk had the standard sigma alarm . What's the "laze line " if it's a aftermarket alarm have you got any paperwork for it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've bought a few brake bits off bob @ aztec always seemed to be a helpful, genuine fella . Don't know if he's moving premises or something but doubt it's anything dodgy. Try dropping him a email and ask for reassurance it will arive in time . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sort any leaks ,Plugs, fluids ,filters and a dyno run is always a good starting point . Aways glad to help when I hear someone investing time and money in a classic (rather than breaking one) [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm not sure if the pump will keep priming as it might stop if it's reached the correct pressure for the fpr and the engine isn't running (using fuel ) The ecu codes might help diagnose a fault but I'm unsure what could be mechanically wrong seeing as it did run for a while (assumably without any smoke or noise) . If the pump primes I'd say it's a spark / electrical issue (sounds like it's getting fuel) But you could check if the spark plugs are wet after cranking . If it cranks over and you can't suss how to code check the is a old school way to check it's firing[emoji6] unplug a ht lead and put a old spark plug in it . Use a pair of insulated pliers and earth the end of the plug and get someone to crank it over while you visually check for a spark . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm fairly impressed with my current set up (for road use) it seems to soak up the pot holes and speed bumps but doesn't "roll " much in the twisties. Elbaich springs (30 mm drop on a wrx) Standard wrx shocks Group n top mounts Whiteline arb Droplinks Roll centre correction kit . I was going to buy 2 new front shocks and front group n top mounts to match the new rears I fitted last year. But the rear arches have been rolled on my scoob and I'm bored, so I'm toying with lowering it a bit. I've been looking at meister r coilovers priced at about £750 . So you boys that are running em ..... would I be able to run a medium quality coilover ,drop it 40mm and not shake the crap out of my crate of beer on the way back from asdas hitting potholes ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome Seems to be a few tidy looking classics joining up lately , nice choice [emoji106] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's flashed the eml up it should have a code stored ,so +1 for a code check and ecu reset . As it might be a cheap fix and could just be moisture/condensation on something electrical from being sat a while , old fuel or something that will go away once the standard air box is in place and the ecu has reset and relearn't the standard air intake If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Don't suppose you've got any info on the car ? Cos I've got that monitor screen half wired in and tucked up under my dash (the one under the double din stereo) And I don't know whether it's worth wiring back in properly or removing it ,as I'm not sure what functions it has [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It could be a imobilizer /alarm issue i think uk ecus have the imobilizer built inside . Is the horn constant or beeping ? (maybe alarm if its not constant ) have you checked the horn isn't going to earth (wired up right) Is there any paperwork for a alarm "back up code " ? Have you connected all the engine earths, especially the main one on the top starter bolt and the engine loom to inlet earth Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've never seen 2.5 heads myself its just Simon roe said a customer put the wrong length plugs in a 2.5 conversion before (so I know there's a difference in plug length ) I think Most scooby conversion use the original cars version heads .As these mean you can retain the "cars" original inlet manifold ,auxiliaries, loom and ecu but there are conversion inlet spacers available that let you change "phases" of inlets Do you know what phase it's running? The reg means it should be a v5/v6 phase 2 with side feed injectors. My best punt would be to whip one of the plugs out and either measure ,read the part number on it or take it down to a local parts place and get some heat 7's of the same size If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Blue'ing of the discs or uneven pad wear is normally a sign a piston is stuck . You should be able to push the pistons in a bit by hand and make sure all the anti rattle pads and pins are clean (to allow the pads to move freely ) Try ringing alyn at as performance or Ian at godspeed for a quote and check the disc size with them but I think it's 293mm for the 4 pots If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As you fill scoobs up (from dry) you have to make sure the heater controls are on hot ,squeeze all the pipework and make sure the expansion tank on the inlet "never" gets sucked dry hmmm mm. ....... sucked dry . Sorry where was I [emoji23] before you try again give all the hoses a squeeze and make sure the header tank is full and the overflow bottle (near the battery ) is on the min mark. listen for the pump priming the system before you start cranking it over ,if it doesn't prime check both fuse boxes (one under the bonnet /one in the drivers kick panel ) best of luck bud 👍 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Edited this as I was out when I replied. Well done on getting it fired up [emoji41] hopefully it's something simple to getting it running again. There's a how too sticky thread on here It works on a sort of morse code flashing of the eml light. It shows you how to do a ecu reset as well Air locks can be a pain on these too ,was there any heat inside the car ie could they're a air lock in the heater matrix ? As for the sensor and loom plug pins , fine wet n dry sand paper to remove any corrosion that might be causing a lack in contact .Then a spray of electrical contact cleaner and a wipe over . Do the code check first to see if it might pin point something as intermittent electrical faults area isn't my forte (I'm just a spanner monkey lol) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Did the fan cut in ? Have you definitely plugged both the the ecu temp and gauge temp in on the water crossover pipe (silver pipe at the back of the alternator ) Did it eat the battery by jut cranking it over but it wouldn't start ? If so can you hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is on ? Are the cam and crank sensors making a good connection with the loom plugs ? Have you done a ecu self code check ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊