savage bulldogs

The saloon Shell is the same shape from v1 to v6 as far as I'm aware. Whats the vortex generator do , Or is it just cosmetic ? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I've seen the company advertise on here but I'm unsure if they're a sponsor of the club (so no offence intended) I personally wouldn't touch a cheap new turbo ,as it can be very costly if it fails (possible engine rebuild ) and they rarely make good reliable power . If you've got a 2ltr a 20g would be quite laggy . A genuine tdo5 16 g will make 350hp with supporting mods or a vf34 for better spool and 330hp Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

What front end is on yours ? The difference between late 96 v3 and 92 to early 96 v1&v2 is. Rear bumper ,Grill ,headlights, bonnet , bonnet vents and scoop . Give either ht autos or daren bezent @ abw a email to see whats available for a "preface" (if yours has a v1/v2 front end) Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I used wheelworx based in Colchester but they can be mobile and I think they've got other branches . Think they charged £260 Inc vat for all 4 tyres off ,rims painted and tyres rebalanced with new valves . I was even cheeky enough to get 2 new tyres delivered to them so they could fit those instead of the old ones . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Nice work [emoji41] Will admit I keep saying that I need some newage sti rims to be my salt slags ,so I can keep the rotas in good condition for the summer . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had my 4 wheel alignment done today Seems to handle better but I haven't pushed it yet due to the damp roads [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Normally a remap will be done with 3rd & 4th gear pulls but when under higher load conditions (in 5th , 6th, going uphill or even colder denser air) There's more pressure in the inlet manifold. This can cause a difference in of pressure in the boost control vac system. In turn creating a different boost pressure that the one set by the mapper and somtimes hitting the max pressure boost cut target set by him . Hence why my mapper tweeks the map at different driving conditions and throttle positions after each map [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just had a look through a few pics and the small bore hard pipe isn't a vac line. It's either coolant or oil breather (can't remember which) You can leave both hard pipes in situ connect up the small bore one and blank the opening off the intake that the s pipe connects to . maybe using the same bung the previous owner used to seal the end of the recirc hard pipe . As if you've got a vta dump valve you don't need the big bore hard pipe but you must blank the hole in the intake pipe .otherwise it will suck in Un metered and Un filtered air . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is it a little plastic elbow that runs off the intake pipe to the recirc hard pipe that's snapped off? If so and your running a vta dump valve you can just bung the hole where the elbow was .then either re run the smaller vac line hard pipe in silicone or refit the hard pipe (with the elbow hole bunged) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just read your mod list as you said the turbo doesn't kick in till 3.8k . Are you running stock headers ? As tubular headers are lighter and increase spool over the stock cast iron ones . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I don't know what either pipe is called but . It looks like either.... the hard pipe that runs on top of the inlet manifold from the icv to the intake pipe . Or the hard pipe that runs underneath the inlet between the factory recirc valve to the intake . If it's the recirc valve one and your running a vta dump valve. you have to "bung" or remove it and "bung" the hole in the intake pipe it goes to . If you do remove it and your still running a purge system, you will need to reroute the small bore hard pipe vac line though If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'd imagine the 440's would be good for 330hp @ standard fuel pressure, pending on supporting mods. Are they phase 1 or 2 440's? I run 550 cc nismos ,nissan injectors with a tab filed off the plug and phase adapters. Or You can get phase 2 440's made bigger by the likes of mark @ lateral performance. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

With a N.A the money's better spent on suspension , brakes tyres ect ... Basically anything to make it go round corners better and make the most of the 4wd system. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I'm unsure if the na is the same as the twin cam turbo but here's a few things that might leak in that area . There's a small o ring in the join in the dipstick tube . front camshaft / crankshaft seals and cam cover gaskets are also a possibility. Have you had the passenger side cam cover off to investigate? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do like a white saloon, lovely looking example [emoji106] Maybe try rotating the pic on your device and saving it then post it ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Speak to luke @ import car parts, he had some in stock earlier this year [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I was lucky enough to find a second hand forge header tank with a bit of damage to the bottom outlet pipe for £35 . So its gonna cost a tenner to weld a new outlet on it plus a bit of elbow grease to get it shiny again . I've had a bit of input into the new design and added a different top mounting bracket. So we can use a couple of plastic spacers to lessen heat soak from hot coolant onto the inlet manifold where the header tank mounts . I won't have a prototype for a month or so .I'll start with the v1 & v2 phase 1 as I can run this on mine and put it through its paces before anyone else buys one . Just thought it could save us a few quid and smarten up our bays by replacing the fugly oe tanks without having to sell any of our kids to fund it [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've been pricing up some custom ally bits for my v1 at a local fabrication firm and after getting him to repair my forge header tank , he said he could make something of similar quality for about £100 .(forge ones are about £180 to £200 ) I know the v1 / v2 is different from the v3 / v4 but does anybody know if any other versions use the v3 /v4 ally header tank with the steel top? (As he could make a few of these too) would anyone else be interested in one if he made some ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any v3 / v4 one will be a straight swap . This is probably the best pic I've got of the standard v3/v4 airbox . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sti and uk /wrx use the same airbox, it's the inlet phases that change the airbox shape . 93 (v1) to early 96 (v2) are the same . Then The turbo intake changes to run under the inlet for v3 onwards and they use a different air box Late 96 v3 to early 98 v4 are the same as each other but I'm unsure if they differ from v5/v6 . What version is your scoob ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I didn't like hawks [emoji102] until I saw that one [emoji6] If it's not oe it's been upgraded with somthing rcm and the bays far cleaner than mine [emoji15] Back to the op , have you driven one with dccd to make sure its worth the extra dough nick ? I'm sure which ever route you take nick you'll still end up with a sweet motor . Mine hasn't got abs ,airbags or air con (let alone dccd)[emoji53] but the light back end and stiffer rear suspension means it kicks the back out before the front [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Some newage jdm sti's have big port heads with posibily over sized valves as well . You can mechanically fit any 2ltr heads to a 2ltr ,2.2ltr and 2.5 ltr bottom ends. once you know the piston bowl and head chamber size to work out the headgasket thickness needed to equal the 8.5.1 compression ratio . It's the , auxiliaries ,sensors and loom that I couldn't be bothered to modify . you can buy phase adapters to make different phase inlets fit different heads on classics but I didn't research if you can convert classic inlets to newage heads . As using a classic inlet of the same phase as the car makes the auxiliary ,sensor and loom work simples 😉 If your going 2.1 you'll obviously need to get "stroker" pistons or rods . As the longer throw on the 2.5 ltr crank in a 2ltr block ,will make standard pistons and rods stick out of the deck face about 2mm too far . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If sparks is your forte how about running avcs heads , as they're supposed to help with spool . Mine is slightly quicker than my mates 2.1 with a tdo5 18g and short ratio box . He's running 375 hp think I'm running about 340hp but the custom inlet and shorter fmic pipework seems to help with spool . Even with twin turbo's I think I'd have to have 1 downpipe (rather than a y pipe) as I would want it unequal to keep the burble If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just about anything is possible so it really depends on your budget or fabrication skills. As Geoff said a vf 35 or tdo5 18 g billet would hit 350hp + with quick spool . I'd be tempted to fit either of those to your 2.1 ,get it run in and then mapped with anti lag first . At least you'd have a fast road car for the time being while you save up for drive train and bigger/different turbo . You might even decide to stick at 350hp .... cos as I've found out ,that's plenty of power in a lightweight classic to see most things disappear from the rear view mirror [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Dunno much about the h6 conversion but Simon roe's classic had one with 2 sc42's and it made over 1,000 hp [emoji7] So I'll leave this pic for you to dribble over lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊