savage bulldogs

That part list on a healthy wrx is 300hp + all day . As Geoff said a compression test would rule out bore wear /failure. Even brand new Standard single classic coil packs will struggle to spark reliably at 1.3 bar. Pre v3 map sensors will only operate up to 1.2 bar (and then hit boost cut) Is it holding boost ? As a leak from the inlet ,fmic pipework or upipe/downpipe can cause a drop in power . Have you uprated the fuel pump ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Tighten your plugs up properly and see if it still does it when you turn it over by hand . If you're confident it's timed up properly and you've got a inlet on it, You can pull the crank sensor plug off (to stop it starting) and turn it over with the ignition key [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The air temp fault could be a old code stored from a previous fault that had been fixed but they hadn't reset your ecu afterwards . If the eml light comes on I'd have thought it should have flashed up a code . What's the year / model and what are you using to read /reset the codes ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You probably wouldn't hear the air escaping from the big empty spark plug hole but you would hear the shhhh as it squeezes out of the tiny gap around a loose plug at part compression (higher pressure ) Maybe ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah it sounds like it's ok but I wouldn't make a habit of turning the engine over without any plugs in (unless you're in a clean environment ) as it can suck debris into the bore . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you turn a engine over without any spark plugs in the bore is open so on the "compression" stroke it can't compress (easy to turn over). With the plugs in tight it will be compressing to a 8.5.1 ratio (more difficult to turn over by hand) If the plugs are only hand tight it will start to compress but when it reaches a certain pressure it can blow by the loose plugs (making a shhhh noise) [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Boost gauges do serve a purpose (other than just looking good ) as if you get a sudden lack of power you can see if it's still making positive boost (to rule out a boost leak). imo there's much more important things to keep a eye on afr ,knock, oil pressure ect . But Unless your mapper has set the knock ,air flow and boost warnings up, so it flashes the eml light if you exceed your maps parameters, I'd keep the controller in view. you can change what the hand controller displays in the "monitor" section . I've currently got mine showing injector induity and knock ,so after a bit of fun down a slip lane I can check the peak values and know that it's still running ok . But I've also got a avcr boost controller and 4 in 1 gauge as I like to know what's happening "live" whilst driving [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Try giving mark agin at lateral performance a call for a price on a genuine pink box exedy clutch kit . I've bought 3 of these and they're fitted into 3 different scoobs and at 300hp ,330hp and 350hp they're all performing well with oe peddle feel . As for cost 16 months ago they were £275 delivered If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah these early classics are getting a bit thin on the ground in the UK . As most were broke for parts and the pre 94 ones we're robbed of the cdb's. I've got a few preface interior plastics but they're from a uk version 3 which has a clock instead of the cupholder above the stereo If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You can get some standard plastic trim from import car parts If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yours should have the "pre facelift " interior and tbh I'm not sure where you can get genuine carbon trim from . Probably the best bet would be to pick up some second hand plastics and get them either wrapped or hydro dipped . As for the cluster bulbs they just "twist" into the back of the clocks . I will be removing my pre face clocks soon (once the weather's picked up) as I need to find a fault with the speed sensor output and I'll gladly take a few pics . If you can't wait a few weeks till i tackle mine download the pdf file for your version of interior off here to help with removal .... http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hope it's nothing to serious and it cuts out with a bit of polish . just remember they do stick a thicker coat of paint on the turbo versions....... so it probably wouldn't hapen again if you did make the leap [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Better start taking turbo scoobs for a test drive then David [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Just spoke to you and used this code [emoji106] Got nano drive oil ,Mahle oil filter ,oe fuel filter and sump plug washers for about the same price just the oil normally costs [emoji41] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Double posting tapa crap

I was lucky as somebody I knew was upgrading to 8 pots . I paid £350 for the refurbed brembos ,nearly new godspeed discs/redstuff pads and k sport braided lines The main thing to watch out for is the mounting threads and bleed nipples, cos being ally bodies the threads can get damaged if they're not torqued down properly. Ask about with some of reputable breakers (matty b or Scott at scooby spares ect ) you should be able to get good condition calipers discs and pads for £500 ish . Speak to someone with them on a 350hp newage and check your rims will fit over them Cos my 17" et43 rota boosts only fit with 3mm spacers [emoji57]

Think your current 4 pots run 293 discs, you can buy conversion brackets that bring you up to brembo sized 328 dia ( which I'd imagine would make a difference) although brembos are 4 pots they're ally (lighter and don't often seize) ,have bigger pistons and have a bigger contact surface area on the face of the pads . I noticed the difference but I've got a 22yr old sti without abs (it's a bit primitive lol ) Maybe one of the newage boys has done the conversion and would know if they'd be a noticeable difference on yours If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Unfortunately new rotas ,bells and pads for most big break kits will cost over £400 new ,so even if you picked a second hand set of calipers up you'd be very close to your budget I'm currently running brembos on my 330hp classic , with godspeed discs and red stuff pads .which work great when hot but I will be changing the pads to something more suitable for fast road as they haven't got enough "bite " when cold 😉. If you decide to go brembo ,Give Alyn @ as performance a bell or message him on social media (cos his website is a bit button moon) . he'll point you in the right direction once he knows your budget for discs n pads . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No worries bud[emoji106] there's a few more random v3/v4 in that photobucket library i dont wanna spam your thread with usless pics but you can click the link and flick through the library to see if any others help . If you do have a squint v3/v4 phase 1.5 is either standard unpainted inlet or blue The red custom reverse set up is v1 phase 1 so slightly different [emoji6] Boost on a v4 top port turbo outlet Bottom port to "t" piece which 1 end goes to actuator and i think the other goes to a plastic elbow that connects to the underside ofthe big bore flexi intake pipe between maf and the hard pipe that runs under the inlet manifold Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

No probs, you'll have to get a few more vids up of this years racing i think I've only ever seen the 1 😉 Have you just removed the abs or fitted a earlier 94> master cylinder ? While they didnt have the engines in i used a bit of machine cleaner and give em a jet wash ,cos it makes it easier to spot a leak ,stops me getting dirty hands when fetteling ....and helps with my scooby ocd lol Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I think it's called the pcv (dunno what pcv stands for tbh and mine has a bolt bunging the hole lol ) but the breather y pipe off the crank has 1 pipe from the passenger side head , its connected directly to the bigger bore crank outlet and a pipe that goes to a valve in a hard pipe directly under the throttle body . Fairly sure that the drivers side just vents into the intake tract between maf and turbo Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I can't see the line in the 97 bay (unless i had removed it) But you can see it in the v1 bay without the abs ,its got a black heat shield on it and runs in the direction of the clutch slave cylinder Does it follow a different route to yours in the 2nd pic ? Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

After thinking about it i couldn't picture the route of the line being that complicated on my current 94 v1 jdm but what you said did ring a bell . I think it took a different route on my abs'd 97 v3 uk I'll dig out a couple of pics of the engineless bays [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Sorry didn't spot this Not that im much help as to why the clutch hard line seems to take a strange route but there's a trader on s.n that does sell braided clutch lines .as i nearly bought some a while back [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

Na it's quite simple when you've got it in bits in front of you , just sounds complicated when i try to explain it lol once the weather's better I'll get a few pics of how mines connected and show what pipes you have to bung when you install it 😉 Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk