savage bulldogs

Glad you've sorted it and a magnet on a stick is a must for any tool box when you're working on scoobies ☺ Can you not remove the !Removed! guard from under the front arch to get to them ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Helicoil would be the best option as I don't know how well threadlock would hold up with the heat . You might be lucky enough that if you run a tap through the thread it might sort it . It does look like you've used a old gasket on the upipe [emoji16] both ends of the upipe are prone to being a pain to seal on assembly . You'd also be better off wrapping the headers and upipe to lessen the heatsoak .So if you do fire it up then decide to remove and refit the headers bear that in mind [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I use a free photobucket account, upload the pics to there then copy and paste the "img" code on to here If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah I'm even asking her for diy jobs atm [emoji15] [emoji40] But only to get em done before scooby season starts [emoji12] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Bin there ,done that and I've decided I'm now a fair weather modder [emoji23] i did tell the mrs over Xmas that we're moving house so I can build a workshop If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Do you know if you're running a ej25 long engine or ej20 heads on a ej25 bottom end ? As there's a difference in the length of the spark plugs used in the 2.5ltr and 2.0ltr heads . As for brand most of us run "ngk heat 7's " I use red line shock proof gearbox oil it's about £80 but it's supposed to be rated fairly well. Rear diff oil is always worth doing at the same time 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Lol I've got a box full of bits waiting to be fitted to mine and the only thing stopping me is the weather (so I think you're out of luck there) But if the weather's good and I'm not plastering, I'm normally doing something scooby at the weekends and would gladly help if you can get it here [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like a Good clean example and some good figures to come ,nice choice [emoji106] What route are you thinking of taking drive train wise to reach 400hp? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Any links to the bulbs bud ? I'm running so called osram "night breakers"........ night breakers my ar5e more like nightingale fooking candles[emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

the nut obviously needs to be nipped up in the first pic . It needs another bolt in the the subframe in the second pic . And I can't remember if the steering uj has a "captive" thread so I'd put a nut on it just in case [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Dunno what I'm looking for in the first pic tbh bud . Second pic needs a washer under the nut (if that's the engine mount) If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

In this pic of the top of the canister the big bore red pipe is the same one on the boost control bracket (in my earlier pic) The middle black vac pipe ( that has a 1 way grey plastic valve in) goes to the clostest vapour hardline ( metal pipes attached to the fuel rails) The other small bore red pipe goes to the furthest away from the canister hard line . Hope that makes sense lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Shame your not closer ,i've probably got some[emoji57] if you phone luke @ ipc first thing you'll have em by lunchtime tomorrow 😉 Oh make sure you use genuine upipe gaskets cos it will blow like a cheap hoe otherwise If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome hope you get it sorted soon. As for the graphs ,when you said new tdo5 in your mod list is it a genuine one ? It's just with yellow injectors I wouldn't expect a tdo5 16g to tail off at the top of the Rev range and hit 1 bar a bit sooner If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

We're always glad to help out if possible , shame I haven't got the v3 anymore (tin worm r.i.p) otherwise I could take a better pic Obviously ignore the boost solinoid in that pic, as this was after I fitted the 3 port to my v3 uk . The map sensor and air density sensor are plumped in standard though 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Trust me I've made a few mistakes along the Way [emoji57] But a man who has never made mistakes has probably never really made anything [emoji6] How close are you to firing it up ? If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah thats just my opinion from my experience and what I've read , I've got not seen any before and after rolling results and I run a 3" k&n cone filter due to my fmic set up [emoji23] But there's a bit of space where the abs "isn't " and a hole in my inner wing . If newage have a resonator under the drivers wing (like classics ) you can cut the restrictive part out and get a bit more roar from a panel filter and drawing more cold air from under the wing [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Colder denser air creates a hotter combustion and adds hp ,hence why the standard air box draws air from outside the engine bay . Induction cones do tend to draw hot air from the cramped engine bay unless accompanied by a cold feed . So a free flowing panel filter and air box resonator delete is the norm unless you have to remove the air box to fit a fmic [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I think the 8s ecu is a uk version Is yours a v3/v4 uk car ? Cos if yours is a jdm there's a few differences in pins Cam ,crank and possibly a fuel pump wire (to do with the UK having a imoblizer ) But if you've got the standard loom the standard ecu should be plug n play If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Here's a pic of a v3 boost control bracket The big bore red vacumm in my pic goes to the charcoal canister. The black plastic elbow at the other end of that goes to a hole under the ribbed pipe that runs between the maf and intake pipe ( under the inlet manifold). In your pic The bit on the red n black vac line does look like a manual boost valve (as stants said) if it is bin it [emoji6] The little pipe off the charcoal canister in the last pic is a drain pipe which just pokes into a hole in the chassis leg . I can't remember off hand if the rest of the vacuum lines are correct for a v3/v4 as it's been 3yrs or so since I owned a standard v3 [emoji4] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Sounds like it's making boost , blowing the spark out and missing. Instead of not holding boost because it's leaking then . Which is what mine did before the newage coil pack conversion but then You could see mine missing on the dyno .As it made boost, then cut boost , the afr rich'ned and then it made boost again Classic single coil packs are prone to cracking around the mounting holes and the insulation getting brittle due to over tighening,heat and age . So your better off buying new ones or doing a newage coil pack conversion, rather than buying second hand imo . If it's misfiring on idle sometimes I think the ecu increases idle to stop it stalling. Cos when I accidentally plugged my front and rear coil packs in back to front [emoji16] It run as ruff as a bears ar5e, spat flames and idled at 2k , I was surprised it run at all tbh lol Hopefully the stronger spark will sort it [emoji41] And if it does I'd keep the old turbo as it probably wasn't the issue in the first place [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

You'd be better off buying the correct second hand ecu for your version for about £ 40 off a breaker If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Generally if it's a misfire it will make boost and hold it but it cuts and the rr results will show a "blip" in the graph . His choice of wording "it won't hold boost " makes me think it's either ..... "blow by " rings are worn letting boost into the sump . Valves are not sealing properly letting boost escape through the ports of the head . Or hopefully the cheaper option a boost leak after the turbo, ie fmic pipework or joiners leaking boost . This is normally easily spotted on a dyno as when under load you'd hear a shhhh or whistling noise. Ask them to do a compression test on the engine and smoke test on the intake to rule out the above My brvs v1sti ,mine and 2 wrx's that belong to friends all make over 330hp with pretty much the same mods . Yours should have about 260 hp standard [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

It can be done ,cos I've seen a newage dash in a classic but I don't think it's a straight swap. What version is yours ? I think the v3 sti has slightly different clocks If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Not without a complications in a v1 or v2, as the early classics have a cable drive speedo and v3 onwards have a electronic speedo drive sender in the gearbox. They fit the facelift interior in a v4 and a preface in the v3 . Although The engine and ecu plug type is the same in a v3/v4 (so the v4 dash might fit in a v3) I personally don't know if the plugs are the same on the back of preface and facelift clocks as I've never looked into it myself I'm afraid If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊