savage bulldogs

I've heard nothing but good feedback with Alan Jeffrey ,so good choice . Is it going back together standard or are you upgrading anything? Sorry just read your previous post rather than looking at the pics lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I did think about running a legacy bi turbo set up but the over complicated nature of the vacuum system used in legacys to run a primary (small turbo) and a secondary (bigger turbo) put me off. Hence why most big power legacy builds normally convert to single or twin scroll turbos [emoji6] I did consider getting a exhaust manifold made up to run 2 hybrid tdo4's .As I'd imagine having 2 turbos the same size would simplify the vacuum but the cost of getting both exhaust and inlet manifold modifications made that impractical for me .... Well I still like the twin hybrid tdo4 idea but it will never happen until I at least get another car for a daily driver and promote the scoob to a (summer time only) second car [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As stants said you normally get higher knock from cold starts ,highest I've seen on mine is 11 during cold start . When warm and under boost I've seen 38 knock but I'm running nearly 1.6 bar and noisy forged internals . So probably not the best comparison if your engine is standard If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I couldn't tell you what normal knock levels are on a oe ecu as I'm running apexi fc and I think the scale is different. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Get the one for your version/model scoob cos all classic knock sensors bolt on the same . It's the plugs that differ and you want plug to match your car's loom If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If you fancy a change then I agree with tidgy and go for a spec c hawk , but I've got a bias opinion since I saw this one in the flesh on my local clubs stand [emoji7] if you're happy with yours cosmetically and mechanically ,you can change the factory understeer set up with suspension settings to make the back end kick out first . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah It was free flowing enough to run 320 hp on my mates 93 wrx . It's been in the scooby shed for a yr or so just in case I ever need a spare If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got a sports cat with divorced wastegate but I'd want about £130 posted . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The cheap catch vta can I bought does the job but if I had the time and money I'd have fitted one that returns to sump . As I have to empty mine 4 time's a year and I take it off completely and rinse it out every spring . Deleting the oil breathing system is a worth while mod imo especially if you're looking at doing track days, when it will be breathing heavy . I'd definitely consider a baffled sump and fuel swirl pot if you do intend on doing a quite a few track days. As this will reduce fuel "slosh" and oil surge/starvation when cornering heavy . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

The rears are pretty much the same as the fronts but here's a few pics and pointers The back of the rear seats has to be removed to gain access to the rear top mounts ,so the lower rear bench needs to be removed first by undoing the 2 bolts (where the rear passengers calves would be) and "unhooking" it from the centre hook on the back rest .The back rest is held on by 3 bolts at the bottom and is hooked over the rear parcel shelf with the rear seats removed crack off the 3 12mm nuts on each top mount and the wheel nuts before you get the back end up and on axle stands. with the car secure and the wheels removed crack off both 19mm bolts at the bottom of each strut and remove the brake line from the strut bracket . in my pic the top bolt is a elbaich camber bolt hence why its a different size and colour I forgot to take a pic of me removing the rear legs but here's a pic from when I fitted the new old shocks last year using the scissor jack with a block of wood to just take the weight ,I totally removed the bottom lower strut bolt and left the top one loose and in situ with the nut off the end .This was to stop the weight of the hub/leg assembly pulling down on the top mount bolts while I tried to remove them . next up remove the 3 top mount bolts and slowly lower the scissor jack while trying to remove the last strut bolt . make sure you don't let the weight of the suspension leg crush or split the c.v gator as you withdraw the "leg" from under the arch . the top of the rear suspension turrets trap mud so this area is well worth a clean up while the leg is off . I fitted the extenders to the rear coilovers before fitting them to the car, as I have a rear strut brace and space is a bit tight even with a 1/4 drive socket set but the extenders do look like they might be easy enough to fit afterwards (choice is yours) .I just did the 3 nuts finger tight until the cars back on the ground again. using the scissor jack and block of wood I raised the hub while guiding the coilover into place to fit the lower strut bolts . Holding the top camber bolt in the neutral position with the scissor jack still in place (to keep the suspension rigid) I tightened both lower strut bolts to 75 flbs then re fitted the brake line to the strut bracket same again for the other side ,double check everything under the arches on both sides is tight and secure ,refit the wheels and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't foul on anything . once the cars on the ground tighten the 3 nuts on each top mount and check the front and rear wheel nuts are all tight . I went for a 15mm drop on the front and 20mm on the back that left the old girl looking like this

Top mount intercooler (tmic) front mount intercooler (fmic) As the UK or gt tmic isn't very efficient over 330hp. If your current injectors are yellow in colour they'll be 440cc which are good for 340hp . There's a wide range of turbo's to choose from pending on budget You can ask esl to put a base map onto the ecu but you will only get the most out of your mods if you have it live mapped whilst it's in your car If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

If it's a late 98 it might have yellow 440 cc injectors (good for 340hp) if it's got grey 380's they're only good for 290hp ish . But otherwise as tidgy said plus either a tmic upgrade or fmic to keep the charge temps down in your slightly warmer climate If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Took it for a good test run last night and no rubbing [emoji5] I've set the damper back to 16 / 32 as when it was set at 20/32 on Sunday they made the Mrs mods jiggle to much .which is dangerous as I couldn't keep my eyes on the road [emoji23] Seeing as I've got the damper set bang in the middle of hard and soft and +4 makes a noticeable difference, I can't see that anyone couldn't find a stiffer or softer setting that wouldn't suit their needs [emoji41] If I was to be Uber critical the only thing that I don't like compared to the elbaich springs and group n top mounts is the road noise has increased due to the solid top mounts on the meister ' s. Longevity is really the only unanswered question but obviously I won't know what that's like until I've had them on a while [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Mine have Fixed top mounts on the rears but I've already got elbaich camber bolts on the rear. You could swap the front top oe camber bolt for the rear top oe straight bolt . If your hks ones have pillow ball fronts [emoji6] Either way i'd suggest to use a top camber bolt on the rears cos otherwise the rear camber is unadjustable and the oe camber might alter if you lower the back end If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a little tweek and test with the suspension this afternoon and I think I'm ready to get it geo'd up now . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome to s.o.c Always glad to hear someone restoring a classic, rather than scrapping one [emoji106] If you've definitely got spark ,fuel ,correct timing marks and compression it does sound like a electrical timing issue . Is it a v2 or v3 ? (96 is a Change over year) Was the donor engine out of a uk or jdm ? I've never had any issues with a jdm to uk swap but I have always used the engine loom and sensors from the type of car rather than the type of engine . I have heard that when doing uk to jdm swaps that the cam and crank sensor pins are different from uk to jdm .hence why I've always used the sensors from the car rather than from the engine I'm fitting. If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've seen a few people ask for different spring rates as cyberspeed lists different rated springs for the leggy's and fozzie due to the extra weight . I spoke to Edwin about different spring rates and he suggested sticking with the gc8 tried n tested spring rates for my usage. Unsure what they were tbh but on my sti (originally 30mm lower than uk or wrx) with a 15mm drop on the front,20 mm drop on the back and the damper set at 16 / 32 they seem fine for road use so far . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

As far as I'm aware the door and windscreen glass is the same dimensions between wagon / saloon and uk /jdm . But the UK door glass has a green tint and jdm has black .As I had 1 green uk tint in my rear door on my jdm (which drove me nuts for months lol) but I'm unsure if the tint is the same on uk/jdm windscreens If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Stants I agree they do look real purdy and I haven't seen any bad reviews on the meister 's yet .They seem to get better reviews after long term use than teins or b.c's . Both of those seem to crop up for sale second hand with leaks and complaints of a harsh ride . ( time will tell if they're any better or worse though) Honest they were advisorys. ..... But mainly cos I advised the mot tester that they needed changing😉 I'll try to prise the laptop of my daughters tonight and run through the rears tonight. I did consider writing a "how 2" but my spelling let's my spanner monkey skills down .so your welcome to chop n change it to make it work ,but in the meantime it will give other members a idea of what's involved when fitting them 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

well the weathers been a bit better lately but instead of fitting some of the engine bits I thought id buy something else the front shocks were given a advisory on the mot last year and I fancied a change from the elbaich springs oe shocks and group n top mounts so I took a punt on a set of meiser r zeta coilovers I'm already running elbaich rear camber bolts and the new coilovers come with pillow ball front top mounts so I ordered some extenders to adjust the rear dampening easier and some anti corrosion spray ,when they arrived the seemed to be quite well made I knew a few members on here were considering fitting new suspension so I took quite a few pics while fitting them and will chuck a few pointers in too your probably better off to give the threads on the bolts at the bottom of the struts a wire brush a squirt of wd before you start, if the suspension doesn't look like its been off in a while . I just cracked off the wheel nuts and the top mount nuts under the bonnet first , then jacked the front of the car up and got it securely on axle stands . wheels off then used a big breaker bar ,19 mm socket and spanner to undo the bottom strut bolts but left 1 bolt in to hold it all in place next up was to disconnect the brake line ,I had already cut the bracket that holds the brake line when I fitted the front struts .As doing this means you don't have to disturb the braking system and have to re bleed it I removed the last bottom strut bolt and removed the strut from the hub, then supported the weight of the strut while I undid the top mount bolts under the bonnet so I could withdraw the complete "leg" from under the arch . of cause I took the opportunity to clean the inner strut turret while the leg was out then sprayed the coilovers in anti corrosion spray to help with my ocd . put the new coilover in position and loosely did the topmount nuts by hand I used a block of wood on a scissor jack to slowly raise the hub while I guided the coilover over it copper slipped the bolts fitted the bottom bolt first and put the top "camber" bolt in the neutral position (cam facing upwards) while the scissor jack was still in position I hand tightened the top mount bolts before using my torque wrench to tighten both lower strut bolts to 75flbs and not forgetting to secure the brake line into the bracket on the coilover rinse and repeat for the other side ,double check everything under the arches is as tight as it should be, pop both front wheels back on and slowly lower the car making sure the wheels don't hit the wings ,like mine nearly did but ill explain that after I've run through the rears next time then finally tighten the top mount securing nuts ,check the pillow ball adjusters are in the neutral position and tight along with the wheel nuts I sort out a bit of a write up on the rears next week along with a few pointers on base heights to start from when fitting this particular brand to a classic

Phase 1.5 v3 or v4 will be a straight swap bud If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Most breakers chuck the fuel lines away (it's the first one I've ever seen fubar) try scoping face book for a second hand fuel line of the same phase . Or spend a couple of hundred and get a parallel line set up 😉 If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Never heard anything about plugs welding themselves into the heads . Hear it start from cold to rule out knocking or piston slap . At 148k I'd be asking for the cambelt to be done (if it's bought from a garage) as this will set you back £400 ish . Subaru main dealer service history is a bonus as it will have probably wanted for nothing and been well looked after . Rusty arches normally start from the inside out so expect a £300 + bill to sort each one . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Think a couple of members have cleaned their icv (possibly using electrical contact cleaner) but hopefully someone else who has done it will point you in the right direction If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I used a multi fitment (corsa) halfrauds spacer to fit the vibe black air speakers in my classic . Had to re drill a couple of holes but they work fine If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊