savage bulldogs

Give "Asperformance " or "lateral performance " a bell as I think they sell the uprated pink box clutch kits for about £280 [emoji6] Main thing different about fitting a scooby clutch is they're "pull clutches" so you have to remove the clutch fork pivot pin to release the thrust race before you can split the engine and box. I'd also recommend getting the flywheel skimmed as if the current clutch has worn the flywheel you'll probably end up with "judder" due to the uneven surface not making full contact with the straight new clutch plate face

Don't know if you've got the same issue but The wiring was different between my old 97 UK turbo to my 94 jdm sti so I had to switch over the bit of loom that goes from inside the "b" post too the door switch . I'm not sure if was the jdm to uk or year's that changed though but I was lucky enough to have both cars so mixed n matched them to work. Maybe try refit the old drivers door card to see if it works ?

Have you done a compression test ? As this would rule out internal issues. Checked for breaks in the engine loom ,wiggle the wires near the suspect cylinder coil pack wiring. Are the coil pack plugs definitely plugged in the right way? As I plugged the front cylinder and rear cylinder in the wrong way round once [emoji5] And had the same sort of symptoms as the firing order was wrong on one head [emoji4] !Removed! thing still started and run though lol

As with any impreza handling tweeks will make a big improvement with speed while cornering Upgraded brakes will also help as you can brake later when entering a corner . Weight loss is a free mod which can help a bit (ac removal ect ...) As for more power I'm afraid tidgy's right Imo cos cheap classic turbos can be bought for under £1500 now days and will give you most of the upgrades above + 100 hp . If you fancy something different you could strap a supercharger to your n.a but by the time it's bought set up and you've upgraded the brakes , suspension ect to cope with the extra power your probably talking about wrx money +some

I can't get decent wifi where I am atm so can't cross reference the model codes (which are the best way to tell if its a proppa sti) but looking at the pics it looks like a sti due to the following Silver tmic (rare to find a second hand one worth fitting ) Red inlet manifold (the oe ones always have flaky paint) "Tuned by sti" aux belt cover Of course all these bits can be fitted afterwards by a previous owners but it does also look like it has the tmic water spray bottle (bottom left in the bay pic) this is normally not fitted by anybody but subaru probably due to the wiring to the spray pump and switch inside beeing a bit of a pain to fit . If the rear inner and outer arches are clean and it doesn't knock when cold or smoke I'd say it was worth a punt Imo

Over boosting is usually caused by someone fitting mods that let the turbo spool more freely (Decat downpipe, cone filter ect...) but it can also be caused by vacuum ,boost solinoid, actuator or map issues . Sounds like your best bet is (as tidgy said) to check your timing marks and get it on a dyno . As a decent dyno operator might be able to diagnose the issue and save you spending a small fortune on random parts trying to stumble across the fault . You don't want to be giving it full boost until you know your afr is correct cos if it runs lean it will go bang again [emoji53]

Hmm shiny scooby stuff [emoji4] Are the front "dog bone" front droplinks for a jdm sti ? As I thought all sti classics had ally wish bones and they usually use the different type of front droplinks that look a bit like they have a track rod at either end

Have you done a classic self code check? If not there's a how 2 in the tech section on here Have you tried cleaning the idle control valve and checked that the little gauze filter isn't perished? If it's not been remapped it should only boost to 0.7 bar ish ,so it's over boosting a bit .

The wifi is pretty !Removed! by the pool just give "Roger Clark motor sport" a Google they'll have a "contact us" email adress somewhere on their website bud

Will admit My saloon is sitting in a car park (at the airport) but it made the journey fine with 4 reasonable sized suitcases, a holdall and few tools in the boot me ,Mrs and my 2 teenagers sitting comfortable inside[emoji41] so I've got no need for a fugly ar5ed heavy wagon and will be sticking with the saloon [emoji55] all joking aside as long as it's quick and had a subaru badge I'd drive it cos it's all about the boost n burble in my eyes I would even drive a wagon cuz but only while wearing my (saloon) burbery cap and argos sovereign in'it blood [emoji23]

he had a (so called) reputable spray shop repair the bubbling rear arches and repaint the whole rear end at a cost of £3.5k a few yrs previous. 18 months and it bubbled again [emoji53] so he thought fook it and had it done properly by rcm . I think it was rcm that imported the inner and outer rear 1/4's direct from Japan and pointed him in the direction of a proppa paint shop . Think it took about a month for the panels to get to the UK but it does look mint [emoji41] I personally didn't have enough time, money or reason to save my old 97 UK turbo and did a re shell with a rust free jdm v1 sti instead [emoji6]

Thanks for the feed back fella[emoji106] I'm quite happy with the current kyb,group n top mounts ,Elbaich pro springs and camber bolts I fitted on the rear a couple of months ago but if I have to change the shocks and buy group n top mounts for the front soon I was debating whether to go for entry level (quality ) coilovers and sell the new rear set up with the full set of springs . Think I'll wait until mot time to see if they get a advisory and if not save the scooby funds for a t36 billet later in the year [emoji6]

The whole inner and outer arches are available in Japan But as you can imagine they're not cheap once imported . Here's a link to a mates scoob that's had the whole rear end renewed ,it cost him a absolute fortune to get it done properly by rcm but he only let's rcm work on his scoob and you can see why. http://www.scoobycity.co.uk/forums/forum/technical/modifications-projects/3902-project-robstopper/page80 Think the bodywork is on page 80 [emoji15] He's owned it a hell'va long time [emoji6]

I've heard quite a few people say that oe scooby pumps are solid and normally it's the (later version) spring loaded tensioner or worn rollers that fail if not replaced . I will admit when I stripped my cdb the rollers ,tensioner, belt and water pump looked almost new . I did consider just getting a new belt but the simple engine refresh snowballed into something a bit more (forged pistons and rods) so I decided to protect my investment buy using a kevlar belt and new rollers, tensioner and water pump . On a standard scoob pushing standard power or even remapped it might be fine but if you intend on pushing it I personally would fit a new full cambelt kit just for peace of mind . Especially as im generally not that lucky lol

Really coming together now bud and loving the wide arch look[emoji41] I've been considering a set of coilovers as my front shocks have seen better days [emoji53] i was eyeing up some bc's but have noticed a few people complaining about the longevity and ride beeing a bit "crashy" how much were the ones that you've got?

Id imagine it's a bit like going bear back with a hooker [emoji15] You could not bother spending a few extra pounds ,on johnies (or water pumps) but it could be fatal if somthing goes wrong [emoji39]

I've got a couple of spare throttle bodies and I'm based in Suffolk but unfortunately (for you ) I'm currently necking a few cold ones by the pool in crete

No problem bud, did it resolve the issues totally?

Cmon matt where's the pics ? I did see a v5/v6 ecu ecutek'd by Andy forest for £200 on face book ,could be a slightly cheaper option for upping the power a bit

Have you done a classic self ecu code check ? Maybe Check the plugs to the tps and icv maybe give the icv a clean as well I don't think a v4 jdm wrx is supposed to have a 3 port boost solinoid and I just did a quick Google and come up with this MY98 WRX (JDM) ... 2 port solenoid 0.9mm restrictor fitted between the turbo and the tee piece I only mentioned the solinoid as to change from 2 port to 3 port requires a map tweek. Symptoms do sound like a possible air leak from the inlet but start with the ecu Check as it could be something totally different

Good darts David [emoji106]

Updated the braided lines beeing sold and Added a 5zigen jasma cat back to the list on the first page [emoji6]

Nice work [emoji106] I think you should have wrapped the headers in heat wrap though bud ,especially where it's touching the oil filter [emoji6]

I have got a divorced waste gate 100 cpi sports cat in the man cave that has a 2.5" flange

I'm keeping the 3" to 2.5" cusco downpipe for now but the 5zigen system will mate up to any standard length catted or Decat downpipe with a 2.5 exit flange [emoji6]