savage bulldogs

Nice tidy installation jay 😎 Wish I'd have bought some decent cutters and an6 assembly tools , took ages to get a decent cut without them lol .

Sounds like you've been a busy boi then mat 😎 I've only ever heard good reports from Andy's work , hopefully it will be sorted out though . I wouldn't get too caught up in numbers , a well set up and well balanced car makes for a much better drive than some laggy pub figure imo . Nice to hear you've been busy ,keep us posted on how you get on chap 👍

Cheers , it's certainly kept me busy for the past 5yrs or so . Finally looks like a dry gap in the weather Saturday , guess that seems like a ideal day to pull the engine. I should probably just completely rebuild it , maybe just buy some stroker pistons, 2.5 ltr crank and do a 2.1 🤔👿 but if the bores look good , I'm just gonna chuck these heads on and get it back in . Now the covers off the scooby I can't bear just looking at it out of the kitchen window for much longer , its driving me mad 🤪😜 .... I'm getting burble n boost withdrawal big time 😥 At least if I can get the engine out and on the stand in the dry ,I can work on it when I want and start to make some better progress 🤞

Lovely original looking v3 type r, unusual to see one so standard ,especially as the v3 was the first of the type r's 😎

Pat is more widely known for his old bike machine work tbh (Norton's, bsa ect), making new components and repairing stuff that isn't made anymore but he's been running his own firm for decades and has stacks of experience. Hopefully, I'm now only a break in the wet windy weather and a box of gaskets away from getting them fitted .

On the plus side , Pat segar (my local trusty engineer) has done me proud again 😎 Difficult to see in the pics ,due to the light coat of oil but the heads look sweet with a near mirror finish on the face work . Fingers crossed for some dry weather and I can crack on with fitting them 🤞

I'd like to say that with being close to better weather season , I'd think about getting the scooby uncovered but two storms in two weeks and the cars uncovering itself .. well car cover is now completely fubared 😥.

Looking good chap , did you get the panels from Ray at automotive repair panels in the end ?

Looking loads better , nice work 😎 I always use autoglym machine cleaner ,work in with a brush and rinse off with a spray bottle full of water . Then a spray of muck off bike sealant to keep it clean 😉 Not keen on pressure washing under the bonnet, as there's quite a few grommets that go into the cabin that might let hi pressure water in

Think your problem there is you need to buy more beer 🤔 As for tackling the rust and keeping another classic on the road ...

Difficult to say , oil burning can be caused by numerous things ... Turbo seals normally smoke on boost but my last one only smoked after idling at traffic lights and pulling away . Valve Stem seals are normally on start up but with the boxer engine being flat the oil doesn't seep past the seals with gravity (like normal engines) Constant smoke can be turbo or rings . Blocked pcv can cause intermittent oil burning (so might be worth a look )

I'm sure we've all been there at some point 😂

Although it would make sense if it's a 1 way valve , Otherwise boost would blow out of the inlet into the crankcase . I'd imagine you'd need to block it off as I don't know what pressure it operates at and it might suck air into the manifold at idle vacuum. Tbh my pcv inlet manifold hole had been welded up before I fitted my can 😊

Still not got the heads back ,as the engineer is well busy but I did finally unwrap a xmas present. It was for the wife .... so I dont have to keep using the kitchen table when working on engines 😊 Collected a hoist I'm borrowing this evening and was hoping to pull the engine this sunday but apparently we've got another storm at the weekend 🙄 Hopefully they'll be a gap in the bad weather soon , as the 70mph winds gave the car cover a proppa battering this week already 🙁

Nice work chop , another one saved from the scrappy in the sky 😎

The pcv valve is directly below the throttle body on the inlet manifold, the other 2 oil breathers are on top of each cam cover . Just make sure of you disconnect the oe oil breather system, that you "bung " any un used pipe take offs ... ie the one that goes to the intake pipework and 1 of the outlets on the crank breather y pipe 😉 Excessive oil burning could be due to a turbo seal or rings , are you getting much pressure when you take off the oil filler cap when running? This might indicate blow by , combustion gasses getting past the rings ,leading to excess crankcase pressure and the oil burning

I try to give advice from experience rather than what I've read on the internet but I've never built a 2.5 and my cdb is running a very over engineered sub 400hp .due to refusing to pay over £1.5K for a 400hp + turbo and injectors. I'd say cosworth or rcm stopper headgaskets are worth the extra £100 ,whichever block you go for . Best of luck with the build and feel free to start a build thread or just keep us posted on progress, chap 👍

It was more about boost peak level and if it held boost . As if it didn't make stock boost 0.6 to 0.8 bar standard (pending on model) when "actuated boost" is set up . It would indicate a leak or faulty actuator diaphragm/spring .

I just thought if they're definitely the same part number and fitment, they'd be the same item and strength made from the same material 😉. The ej207 is reportedly good for 450hp in standard guise , so I'd thought the standard head bolts would be too . Saying that I when I rebuild my old ej207 I used cosworth headgaskets and standard bolts but when I rebuilt my ej20 cdb I used cossie headgaskets and arp's. Think "safe" 400hp is more about deck type (open deck being the weakest) and piston type (early classic and 2.5 pistons being the weakest). If the 2.5 block is open deck and not semi closed or your using the standard 2.5 pistons (prone to ringland failures) I'd say they were the weakest link , rather than the head bolts . If you've gone to the expense and effort of fitting uprated internals and reinforcing the deck type ,I'd just use arp's anyways (to protect your investment)

I think they're the same fitment, have you tried cross referencing the oe part numbers , to see if they're the same ? Unfortunately I dont know if there's any difference in the strength of the materials used , just that my 2ltr arp headstud said both ej20 and ej25 fitment on the box .

Have you had the ECU checked for fault codes , if not a bluetooth odb2 adapter and the torque app will show most ECU codes and possibly clear a few . Have you got a boost gauge and if so what does it read . Hopefully its something simple , bud

I've by passed a few classic boost control systems using actuated boost and you get a engine management light which goes off soon as the system was reconnected. I mentioned this as I dont know if a newer ecu will "self delete " the boost control code and turn the light off, when it senses the boost control system is plugged back in afterwards . So it might need a ECU code read /reset afterwards (I've never done it myself on a newer model) Just take pics / note of where the vac lines run , then unplug the one on the turbo outlet and actuator. Use a bit of vacuum line to run straight from outlet to actuator and make sure any lines you disconnect are plugged with bolts and tied up so they don't flap about in the bay . Give it a half throttle run and see if there's any improvement, then try a full throttle run . If you have better performance then my monies on the boost control solenoid or vac lines . If not air leak somewhere between maf and throttle body would be the next thing I'd check for

unless you tell people it's a na ? I dare say when they get in ,it they would expect "turbo performance" , so yeah that might be part of the reason . Lovely looking car though ,bud 👍 Still the low center of gravity boxer platform and awd make most scoobies capable cars in loose surface conditions. Mine looks pretty much like a 26yr old standard scooby wrx sti on the outside but quite a different case under the bonnet, so tend to have the opposite effect on unsuspecting passengers 😊 @Juddian I fully agree that theres german and plenty of other newer machinery from other countries, that would give a scooby a run for its money. But few have the same soul of a scooby imo , my daily a4 20t petrol is very responsive and picks up much quicker than any scooby I've driven . Although it's a good daily , it's too comfortable and easy to drive, its boring by comparison to my 1250 kg awd , non abs 26yr old classic

Think most just tend to think it's a subaru it must be fast but there's much more to subaru than just speed . I bet most bmws or fwd cars would struggle against a na awd scooby in the wet , snow or even down a twisty country lane . Although I've owned a few turbo scoobies over the last decade or so and I've modded my v1sti half to death , I never get caught up in the "my cars faster " or "i don't like what you've done to your v1" crowd . I bought and built it for me and did a build thread to hopefully encourage others to add their mark on their own scoobies .otherwise its Not for anyone elses benefit and I'm happy with it... Well most of the time lol

I haven't worked on a hawk before but that looks like a purge valve 🤔 Is it under the inlet manifold or near the drivers side suspension turret under a plastic cover (that's where the boost solenoid is)? You could try cleaning the boost solenoid with brake cleaner to see if that helps . Or by pass the boost solenoid control system altogether by connecting a vac line from turbo outlet to actuator, this should give you actuatorated boost (same strength as your actuator spring, normally around 0.6 to 0.8 bar ) . This might help rule out any issues with the boost control system and if it's the same ,look for splits in the air intake or tmic y pipe that could cause a boost leak . Just make sure if you remove any vacuum lines that you take note where they go back to 😉