savage bulldogs

Might be able to do a part ex with yer nads ..... Mrs has owned mine for a few years now 🙄😂

Room for 3 it is then 😘😂 Shame that .... I was gonna set up a "go fund pete page" so you can have the bug off me 😉

Does sound like you ford boys wanna "get a room" for yourselves. ... so maybe the rumours are true about ford drivers 🤔

We'll the lateral links and trailing arms are ready for paint (dinner was nice too) but I saw this meme and had to post it on here .... Last year ,when the bug sti engine was in bits on the dinner table and that **** hit the v1sti 😞 This was me ,owning 2 scoobs but having to drive my eldest daughter 's 1.3 ka to go shopping at the weekends 😂😂😂

Hopefully it's either air in the system, iffy stat or header tank cap . As the the interior fans should blow hot if the water is circulating Do the engine rad fans cut in ,is the bottom rad hose and flow /return to the heater matrix getting hot ? Shortly before the rad fans cut in the thermostat should open allowing the water in the rad to flow through the engine , so the bottom rad hose should get hotter . Heater matrix hoses are under the tmic and go through the bulkhead , if the water is circulating both flow from and return to block should get hot . If not could be stat or airlock restricting flow .

That was quite a few years ago, when I was running that dirty sounding 5zigen jasma cat back, think my ears are still ringing from that fly by under the bridge 😂

I reconise those scoobs 😊 nice to see some local scoobs on here, bet you can't wait to get it back on the road, bud

Fook dat I ain't wearing my lime green t shirt at santa pod ever again . Walking round with a cloud of midges above me like Charlie brown . If I stood still for more than 30 seconds, my Scott n lyle t shirt looked like a nature reserve 😂 Bring the puma to the pod pete , i've got a spare scoop we can gaffa tape on and now one will ever know 😉

Cheers sam , it seems to be a never ending but there's always something scooby to do 😊 As it used to be my daily driver and could never be off the road for too long .Some of the painted bits under the bonnet are looking better on camera than in the flesh now .So I want to go back and tidy up the bit's I'm not happy with . She'll never be a trailer queen, cars are meant for driving imo .... in saying that once I'm happy with how it looks and run out of things to do, I might build another engine for her though 🤔😊

Seeing as I'd bought a Whiteline anti lift kit and super pro wish bone bushes ,I decided it would be rude not to freshen up the rear bushes too 😊 So I bought a set of second hand rear trailing arms and lateral links for a tenner to clean up and fit new bushes in.I'd been putting off cleaning them for a while, as it's a gonna be a cack job to remove the "sti pink paint " that had been slapped over them . Well the wife said "seeing as you've got nothing to do till dinner time ,you can give me a hand with the housework today " 🤔....... So I decided to make a start on the "very important job in the shed" today 😊😂 Oh well took about 25 mins to prep the first one ,so that should take me till half past dinner to do the rest 😉

As tidy said ,if you are gonna buy uprated rods and pistons along with a new crank ,you could buy stroker pistons (1mm ish shorter ) and a 2.5 sti crank and increase the cc to a 2.1 stroker . Have you decided Who's going to build it for you yet ?

Standard pistons and rods in a ej207 are supposed to be good for 450hp ,so a standard spec rebuild would be plenty power for most . I dare say it really depends on your target power and budget . Although you'd probably be better off buying a new crank ,the standard x drilled nitrated crank is good for 700 hp (so probably not worth upgrading) Unfortunately you won't know how much damage has been done to the pistons and bores/block untill it's stripped. Just bear in mind that the semi closed deck is rated to 450hp, so if you do need new pistons and /or block ,that it's not worth buying 750hp rated internals unless you upgrade the deck type 😉. Best of luck , bud

Don't know what county your in but I use Clive attowe tuning in Norwich for my apexi (give him a google) I'm fairly sure he does ecutek mapping still and would know if your model is compatible

I'm fairly sure ecutek works on impreza's of that age and know it works on up to 04 plate jdm imprezas but as you say someone who uses ecutek would know . Only things I'd add about fuel other than using 99uk Ron is, If it's cold where you are try not to use wot in higher gears .As the colder denser air and heavy load in high gears might cause it to be a bit lean . The ecu would probably "learn a bit" but as you say ,just pull timing and add fuel ,both of which would lessen performance and economy. If in doubt get a dyno health check done ,for piece of mind 😉

I was scoob'less for a few of the spring and early summer months last year ,so sorta know what your saying 🙄 But today I just took the bug out instead 🤐😊

Sorry to hear that the the bottom end has gone 😕 but sounds like you'll end up with a nice reliable new one , instead of gambling on another 2nd hand engine or car ,mattie 😉😈😂 Hope the header cap and fluids sort the temp trouble sam 👍 Had some snow today , first time the v1sti hasn't been out in it ,she's still sleeping 😏

Welcome back to burble n boost, bud😊 Got any plans for it or just tidy it up, drive and enjoy ?

I can't really help with any local recommendations but RM performance and A.s performance are probably the only 2 companies I'd use (if I couldn't do the work myself ) . If nothing else, they'd be worth a call to discuss your options and get a rough idea of costing. I can tell you that icp supplied new nitraided crank, king bearings, cossie headgaskets, new head bolts and all the oe gaskets needed for a rebuild for about £1.3k but you'd have to add machine costs and labour on top of that. Possibly second hand block casings if it's a fubar'd a cylinder liner or maybe oversized pistons, if a 0.5mm over bore is needed to machine damaged bores within tollarances . Other option would be a second hand engine from the likes of mb developments, I'm pretty sure he's got a couple of sti ej207's in stock atm . You'd have to contact matt for a price and add fitting costs too . Best of luck, bud

Seeing as she's been sleeping for a while and the weather's been in the plus degrees, I decided to start her up and run it up to temp . Gotta say I'm impressed with the car cover ,cos she's proppa shiny still underneath it 😎 Although it's still a bit too cold to strip the inlet manifold off ,it's spurred me on to start the ball rolling on getting the old engine loom replacement lined up. Due to the custom reversed inlet manifold I'm running a v3/v4 throttle body ,cable and tps . I've also done a newage coilpack conversion, so decided to get "jt innovation " to make a custom made loom .As not only would a second hand loom be 25yrs old ,with insulation just as brittle as the original one ,it would need to have the newage coil pack pigtails and v3 tps plug spliced in again 🙄. So no pics or real updates , just thought seeing as I woke her up I'd do the same to the thread 😉

Little break in the sub zero temperatures, so chucked a sponge at the bug and took it for a spin dry 😊

Are the journals definitely worn and out of tolerance? As it's fairly common to visually see a ring around the cam journals, from the oil staining and sometimes even a slight build up that can be "flattened off" .

Hi n welcome. It does depend on whether you're after new or 2nd hand parts and where abouts you're based . Most tend to use import car parts for oe subaru parts ,gaskets, bushes ect . Alyn at as performance or mark at lateral performance are normally a good shout for aftermarket or uprated parts . If it's second hand stuff you're after, feel free to post a wanted thread in the for sale /wanted section on here .

No problem bud, best of luck 👍

Tbh I've never owned a scoob with tgv's or worked on one with them lol . but think it stands for something like "tumbler generator valves" and they're supposed to "tumble"the air into the engine helping to mix the air and fuel for better emissions on cold start . Classics and newage sti's don't have them and most aiming for high hp just delete and map them out . Tbh my newer scooby spec isn't up to scratch, so don't know if your version definitely has tgv's but do know that they can cause misfire symptoms without tgv codes . Hopefully it's just a sticky solinoid mucking with the mixture and nothing too serious

Yes bud ,it won't change anything just be more reliable. Couple of tips ... Pull the fuel pump fuse ,start it and let it run till it stalls ,to de pressurise fuel system a bit before undoing fuel lines . Clean the area around the tank fuel sender hatch before opening the tank , lessens the chance of debris going in the tank . Have a few bits of rag to hand to mop spills and something to cover the hole when you remove the cradle to fit the new pump . Check the fuel sock is the same length ish as the old one ,if not and the old 1 is clean ,refit the old one . Once everything is refitted refit the fuel pump fuse ,turn key a few times just too ignition stage, to prime pump and systems . Then go for 1st start up 😉