savage bulldogs

You could try looking for signs the block halves have been split ( marks on the block bolts , fresh sealant poking between the block halves ect ) Or if your receipts list forged pistons use a endoscope to look at the piston crowns, to see if they are the ones the receipts say are fitted. The only real way to be sure its a 2.1 stroker is to take the sump off to see if it's got a 2.5 ltr crank and check what rods are fitted .Along with knowing what pistons are fitted by either using a endoscope or whipping the heads off . As a 2.1 stroker is basically a 2ltr with a 2.5 ltr crank and 2mm ish shorter rods or pistons . Crank increases the lenght of the "stroke", shorter rods or pistons stop the piston crowns poking outta the deck face too far 😉

I've completely given up with tapatalk lately , as it was asking for too much info and buggy as fook . Which is a shame as it was a handy app for notifications and instant p.m's . I've just been logging in to s.o.c direct on my phone instead for a couple of months now

Got home early today and im taking the v1sti to a local retro meet tomorrow evening, so seeing as there was a bit of cloud cover i thought it would be rude not to wash n wax the scoobs Been enjoying the refinement of the bug sti whilst running it in lately 😎 So haven't driven the v1 for a week or so but soon as i hopped back into the v1sti, i remembered why she's a keeper . Proppa drivers car and she's a bit of a animal in comparison 😊

The 50 mile change sounds like it gets rid of the machining burrs, similar to the heat cycling method . you didn't have any standard or actuated boost until after 1k either alex ? I definitely agree the loads need to gradually increase, whether using boost or not . As that's the way most na engines are run in anyways . Nice too see other methods used but as tidgy says "if its not broke don't fix it" Although my other thread is more of a .... " if it's not broke take it apart and either clean it or upgrade it "🙄😂🤣

I wasn't saying s.c did the 1k 1 change no boost method by the way, Just that was a method I'd seen suggested and thought having oil with the initial start up filings in for that long wasn't a good idea 😉 Along with the build it , thrash it at the other end of the scale too ,which seems far too harsh for a road build imo . Dunno what subaru do from new ? Bench run to heat cycle , new owner gradually build revs , bit of both with a 1k change ? But the 1k run in without any boost is generally considered a bit old hat when using new technology tri coated bearings .Not that there's nothing wrong with with old tech , i still run tried n tested apexi f.c in my v1 lol . During my research proir to my first build, I'd settled on a "happy medium" method that had been used by numerous qualified and experienced performance engine builders . It also made sense to me from a engineering point of view . A combination of heat cycling the engine whilst stationary to remove initial machining burrs and changing the oil , then getting some decent heat into the pistons and rings with actuated (low boost) with low revs . Then finally putting higher boost low down and letting the engine hit higher revs at part throttle. The logic is that the pistons will get much hotter when using boost , causing them to expand and push the rings against the bore walls more . In turn completing the running in ,whilst the running in oil is in for the shorter period . although my v1 build hasn't been pushed for power , due to me trying to keep a sub £2k budget for engine , turbo and injectors. It's done a proven 38k over 5 yrs without any issues , unfortunately i don't know where the other engines I've built over the years are or how many miles they've done now tbh . If you asked the same question on a performance engine building forum you'd probably get at least 3 different answers and start the equivalent of a face book subaru page "what oil should i use " thread 😂. So it's not a wrong or right type discussion ,just a personal preference thing imo 👍

Yes bud there's certainly plenty of opinions out there and definitely different ways needed for different spec 👍 Someone suggested 1k mile with 1 oil change and no boost but that just doesn't make mechanical sense to me . As i wouldn't want leave all those metal filings in the oil while running in. Just seems a bit strange not use boost while running in, then slap proppa oil in and just map it at full throttle without it ever seeing boost or wot before 🤔 I'd maybe understand it if its a complete new engine , valves , valve stems ,lash caps ect at the top end . This would mean you'd need a more gradual running in process by slowly bringing up the rpms over time but I'd still like to see more oil changes imo. Don't get me wrong though chap , i know you trust s.c and many of their satisfied customers do too , after all they've built plenty of engines . I'm just a enthusiast with a few engineering and mechanical qualifications (that's currently a plasterer by trade) that builds engines on the kitchen table for the love of it 😂

When using "race tri coated bearings" they bed in much faster , so you only have to worry about the rings and bore burrs left by honing early on during the running in process. I did 3 heat cycles, oil change (gets rid of the honing burrs) ,250 miles at actuated boost low in the rev range then oil change , 250 miles full boost low in the rev range but bringing the revs high without boost . Then proppa oil , map and smiles per miles . 1k miles without any boost isn't any good for a boosted engine, as it needs the cylinder pressure to help the rings "bed in " properly 😉 But yes ,it's still a pain not being able to use the car to its full potential yet 😕

Had a nice weekend away with the family and decided to take the bug instead of the v1 sti, to get some running in miles done 😉 Pleased to say , it's now done 185 miles without missing a beat or using any fluids 😎 . Although it has 18's and b.c's it was fairly comfy, even 4 up with a boot full of stuff . Certianly feels more refined than my animal v1sti. Still needs a good polish and wax but it's far too warm for that atm 😊 once I've detailed it, I'll chuck some pics on here though 😉

Think it's pre 91(H reg) cars that didn't leave the factory with a cat, that don't need a cat to pass a mot . 92 (k reg) onwards need a cat regardless of where they were imported from here in the uk . I have a spare sports cat , which passes mot emissions , some garages will let cars pass with a decat but it's probably best not to name them on a public forum , bud 😉

Think some run wider wheels on the back compared to the front , so doubt it would matter if you only run front spacers . I just thought I'd keep the width the same . I haven't got spigot rings on my rotas , so can't help there bud . My spacers were £20 a pair from a local motormainia store and were only supposed to be a temporary fix but 2 yrs on they're still doing their job lol

Will admit the 2.5 ltrs do get a bad rep when pushed for power ,as they do tend to suffer from headgasket and ringland failure more than the 2ltrs . The later 5 speeds seem to handle more hp than the earlier ones (350hp ish) but the added torque of the 2.5 can tend to push close to the limits of a 5 speed . 6 speed is the most comon upgrade at £1.5k for just the box (no labour) , then most save for a forged build (£5k) just in case the stock block goes pop . But I'd suggest to speak to your mapper about the best route and power limit for your block and drivetrain, before buying any parts .

If it's a ej207 conversion they're good for 450hp ish . I'd recommend ditching the cob stage generic flash map and consider spending out on a suitable live mappable ecu .As that would be bespoke to your set up and safely get the most for your mods . Suspension wise personal preference and usage plays a big part in the route and choices . Generally fully adjustable coilovers that are over £700 are fairly good for fast road, decent droplinks (front n rear) , rear adjustable arb , camber bolts and a anti lift kit . Will enable you to put the power down better and improve handling to a good level for a road car . If your wanting to go low id maybe add a rollcenter correction kit to help dial out the bump steer too . If the rest of your cash is still burning a hole in your pocket . Then sti ally wishbones and a full oe bush refresh for road use , id only say fully polly bush for track use (quite harsh for the road)

Hi n welcome, Nice looking example you've got there 😎

I'm not too clued up on 2.5 spec but with the 2ltrs , to break the 300hp mark (on top of the mods you have) most fit .... Sti turbo , sti injectors ,sti tmic and sti up pipe (as the bug /blob wrx have a pre cat in the up pipe ) Unsure if the 2.5 ltrs have a pre cat or if there's any difference in the sti inlet manifold, other than if the non sti has tgv's ? (Which i think can be deleted on your existing manifold if so) Hopefully someone who knows their latter scooby spec can help

Bug or blob sti 5 x 100 pcd space savers fit in a classic fine fella , ive had one in my v1 for a couple of years now 👍 Think it was about £25 posted from matt baker at mbdevelopements on f.b 😉 P.s i saw your other post about small wheel spacers and ive been running 3mm universal cheapy spacers for at least 2yrs to clear my brembos. Haven't had any issues but i do run them front and rear to keep the "track" the same

Busy day for the bug ...... Maiden voyage went without any issues on the way too and from the mot station and it passed it's mot no problem 😎. Got home and taxed it , then thought i should really start to get some running in miles done 🤔 so took it too it's first local scooby meet 😊

Not too sure tbh , as I've only ever worked on turbo imprezas,so only have the manuals for them . Maybe one of the legacy boys can help ?

Well i finally got the insurance sorted , with thanks to Dan at flux and she's booked in for mot this afternoon . Fingers crossed it passes first time , then i can continue the running in process . Gave it a rinse over and although it's come up well , can't wait to give it a clay, machine polish, wax and seal 😊

When was the last time the spark plugs were changed ? As a o2 sensor fault could point to a misfire causing unburnt fuel to cause a spike in the afr ratio reading , rather than a faulty sensor and could be the cause of your symptoms

I found the elbaich pro springs slightly softer in a straight line , they seemed soak up bumps and pot holes better than the standard v3 uk turbo springs . Due to the progressive rate they gave less body roll in the corners as well but they lower a uk turbo or wrx about 30mm to roughly the standard height of a sti of the same year. So when my front top mounts and shocks gave up i bought the meister r's. As it worked out about £200 more for the meister r's (at the time) compared to the price of new front shocks and group n top mounts . Still got the elbaich pro springs if you do decide you want a set

Gutted I couldn't make it to scooby fest but the nearly 400 mile round trip and a hangover from hell stopped play 🙄 Thought your auto wrx would've been gone by now , we've had a few people on here asking about autos in the past and know they're fairly rare over here . Did share your link on a f.b page the other week as i saw someone asking and it seems a good example

Nice looking project you have there 😎 Normally crank and no start is something to do with immobilizer or crank /cam sensor . As they allow crank but cut fuel and spark , have you got either of those ? I've delved into the v1/v2 wiring quite a bit while tracing faults but the ecu plugs and pinouts are different compared to the v5 /v6 set up . I used and downloaded the pdf manuals from here to trace my issues http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals Best of luck with it and keep us posted ,bud 👍

Still haven't done the maths on what its cost me yet 🤔 But I've pm'd ya anyways bud

Well with this current heatwave continuing, i recon well be getting a hosepipe ban soon 🤔 So finished early Washed the bug sti ,the v1 sti , the daughters ka and half the caddy 😶 Yep it was getting too hot to wash the whole caddy 😂

Or you could buy this at the end of the summer 😉