savage bulldogs

Furry muff , i just assumed it had the oe phase 1 jdm top entry tdo5 , due to the phase 1 inlet . When i switched from the oe top entry tdo5 to the aps sr40 (stock location gt28) the banjo bolts supplied were much more restrictive. So much so that my hot idle oil oressure increased by 0.8 bar

Nice find, james [emoji41] Did the vf22 come with the banjo bolts and is it a roller bearing core ? As the journal based tdo5 normally needs more oil than roller based turbos so uses a less restrictive banjo bolt .[emoji6]

To add on top of whats been already said .....Seized brakes ,shocks and a fuel refresh before driving on boost

Liking that zorst but i am a bit bias [emoji4]

350hp (i think) its a semi auto with a veilslide body kit . Pics dont do it justice as dave always keeps his cars looking mint .

Few more pics from the scooby city stand 😁

Cheers gary , not so happy about the tree sap but very gratefull for the shade [emoji41]

Today i mostly be at cars on the green with my local club

Hi tim have you got any deals on 10 w 50 millers nano drive coming up soon ? I've only done 4k since the last change ,so im in no rush but i haven't seen any millers offers come through on the mailing list for a while . Cheers clive

The oe back box on my uk turbo was so quiet you couldn't even hear the iconic scooby burble . So much so that my petrol head mrs said i had to buy a louder system [emoji41] If you want oe looks but better flowing and it to be stainless steel, i think haywood and scott makes a "scooby sport" back box with the oe looking "twin pea shooter" outlet

If there's enough room, you Could try running a tap through it and using threadlock on the bolt ? It would only be a temporary solution (if it works at all) but it might just nip it up a little bit for now .

Glad ive got a new steering rack gator in the shed, as i be mostly fitting it this afternoon [emoji39]

Hi n welcome . Is the suspension stock or has it been lowered/upgraded ? By "good tyres" do you mean just the amount of tread or that they're quality sticky ones ? Tyre pressures correct ? Otherwise Maybe take it for a 4 wheel alignment check

Im just across the border in suffolk and use clive attowe tuning @ his 4wd dyno in norwich .

Just looks like a normal dash bulb removed from its holder ,strange . Maybe try subaru main stealers

If you upgrade to led's sometimes you need to fit a resistor to trick the canbus system . Tbh i dont know if yours has canbus but that bulb looks non led and therfore probably readily available at any motor factors or halfrauds .

No worries, just thought id mention timing belt removal as if its due , its definitely worth doing at the same time . Sometimes the crank pulleys can get a bit stuck and if your gonna change the belt it might be eaiser to drop the coolant and remove the rad . To make access and seing the timing marks eaiser . I've only fitted crank n cam seals once and my engine was out at the time [emoji6]

Buy a v1sti ... .. No airbags or abs , made just for men with big nads [emoji6]

Timing belt has to come off but otherwise its fairly straightforward job .

Yep boost solenoid controls the boost via vaccum lines attached to the turbo outlet ,wastegate and inlet/intake . The plug by the battery looks like a classic (pre 2000) icv (idle control valve ) ive never worked on anything but classics so unsure if it needs to be plugged in on yours . The sensor by the oil filler is a classic cam position sensor . If not plugged in on a classic it won't start or will go into limp mode if faulty . No idea what the pink plug is for im afraid . If the engine loom is newage (2000 onwards) the plug by the battery might be for a newage cam sensor ? Does it run ? P.s had a second look at the plug by the battery and it could be aircon plug ? Maybe 1 of the newage boys would know for sure

Nice figures Alex i bet it shifts along well now [emoji41]

Finished work at early [emoji41] . So i Gave the old girl a polish n wax and went for a little b road blast .

Had a mate pop round and run me through the datalogit ,still plenty more research to be done before im happy to start "tweeking " . Have found that I'm definitely maxing the oe green maf [emoji57] as I'm getting the same 5115v peak reading on the maf voltage @1 bar as i am @ 1.45 bar. Its still fueling fine as the afr is on point [emoji41] The tomei maf plug is already in situ ,as i spliced that into the loom last year , so the bigger z32 maf will just plug in when I'm ready [emoji4] . Got to get a bit of maintenance out the way first [emoji57] when i did the 6 speed conversion ,although i decided to use the 6 speed clutch,flywheel and starter motor i retained the 5 speed clutch slave cylinder. ....... which promptly spat it dummy out after 5k mls [emoji34] Luckily enough i have a spare 5 speed slave and a 6 speed slave cylinder that come with the 6 speed box. I opted to fit the 6 speed slave cylinder as it looked slightly bigger and was newer [emoji41] . All has been good with the clutch since but i noticed that the bigger bodied 6 speed slave had caused the clutch fluid feed pipe to rub on the heater matrix hose . I searched the net for months trying to find replacement samco heater matrix hoses separately but most tuners/shops only sell full kits [emoji57] Finally found merlin motorsport who kindly contacted samco and had them make 2 for just over £60 delivered. I know i probably could've found another brand cheaper but samco have a lifetime warranty and are made in the uk [emoji6] Pic of the area i had put hose repair tape on to stop the rubbing on the bigger clutch slave and the new samco hoses

Gladly , but it will cost you a bit more than the few resupply crates you've given me on battlefield [emoji23]

The much needed V1 samco heater matrix hoses have arrived [emoji41] Bbq today [emoji39] ,hangover sunday [emoji51] so hopefully I'll fit them monday [emoji4]