savage bulldogs

Nasty stuff I don't like's it but it does stop a fair bit of heat soak and stops you cooking the oil filter , so definitely worth doing if your fitting aftermarket headers[emoji106] My brv conned my mum into doing ours ..... Apparently because she's a nurse she's !Removed! hot at bandaging stuff [emoji23]

Probably nothing to sinister and just a bit of condensation. But sounds like a good excuse for a rebuild .... cough cough forged pistons[emoji108]

Yeah nips on top bud 👍 And if they're brembo fronts bleed the inner nips first 😉

Nice work 👍

I can't remember if my v3 uk turbo had bulbs in that position but it did have abs and a air bag light . My v1 94 sti doesn't have air bags or abs and here's a pic of the back of the clocks Hasn't got bulb holders in those positions either , so it might be air bag light ? The dccd models use the grey bit in the middle of our clocks to show diff position ,maybe they use the ones your on about too ?

I know yours is a early classic ,Has yours got abs and airbags , cornish ?

Did the first detail of the year 😎

Have a squint at the charcoal canister and associated pipework. As this ,along with the purge system , holds and burns off fuel vapour . I think in the newage it's at the back of the car rather than under the bonnet like on classics.

If you do drop the coolant and remove the stat it might be possible to visually check the blades at the back of the pump ? Tbh I can't remember as it's been a while since I built mine but due to the strange symptoms of the temps going down, in conditions when you'd imagine them to climb . A visual check of the pump ,oil cooler and general pipework from the pump might be worth doing , just to check if the galleries are clear and pumps not broken

Fortunately I've never had to do a block test or "sniff test " as I know them . It's possible that it could just be a massive air lock from when you replaced the rad a while back . As scoobs are notorious for air locks and have to be filled gradually making sure the header tank never get sucked dry during the refill . Otherwise it does seem to be early signs of headgasket ,as initially it sometimes only leaks when on boost or heavy load (giving it beans uphill) . Due to the extra compression in these conditions forcing gasses past the partially failing headgasket .this also means that there's not always a lot of hydrocarbons in the coolant to start off with and it takes a while to build up the detectable levels (especially if you've refreshed the coolant recently ) You could try dropping the coolant and refilling without the engine running . Squeezing the hoses and making sure the header tank doesn't end up completely empty while topping up . Once it's as full as possible turn the heating controls to hot ,start it up and continue to fill the header tank as necessary untill the fans cut in . Hopefully it's just a case of air in the system and not a headgasket issue .

Nice choice kay [emoji41] Best get saving for that drive train and forged build upgrade too [emoji6] Are you gonna fit a afr kit, the maf n ecu then back the boost and timing off a bit , untill you get to grips with the data logging ?

Don't understand why it takes a week for something to be delivered in the UK. when I bought the apexi hako interface from Oz and it only took 4.5 days to land on my door mat [emoji41] I've fitted the aem x afr gauge already . Just glad I did a bit of research before fitting it,or I'd have been panicking [emoji23] . as when I'm in cruise (light throttle ) the afr is much leaner than on boost . So the peak data is miles out in comparison to when I'm at wot . Hopefully get the hako interface fitted this weekend and start to log some data

Yeah it would wind up the centre diff , I think tidgy experienced that when his 6 speed box didn't have the same ratio as his 5 speed diff . I think it started jumping on the dyno but I don't know how far out his ratios were

Headgaskets on scoobs do tend to blow between cylinder and coolant . Initial symptoms are ,when on boost it forces combustion gasses (hydrocarbons) into the coolant. Is a "block test" to check for hydrocarbons ? . Are you sure it's air in the system and not a sticky stat ,faulty pump or a flow issue (clogged coolant galleries or a kinked coolant pipe)

I had some 17" speedlines chronos on my v3 uk and had to run 5mm spacers after I fitted my 4 pots . But the rb classic runs 17" speedlines and 4 pots as standard . I'm unsure what model they are but they're not chronos or the 1's in your pic. No much help I know but it goes to show that it's all in the et and design of the spokes that change fitment. Some later classic sti's run 16"s over 4 pots as standard but yet again I'm unsure of the brand or et .

Just thought I'd add if the new intake pipe is better flowing it might need to map tweeked in . As Gary fitted 1 to his bug sti and had idle issues until it was tweeked 😉

I thought I'd mention that 3" wasn't standard size as there's quite a few for sale that size for the bigger aftermarket turbos . I think the oe size is about 76mm dia (roughly) If you're fitting a intake pipe with the inlet in situ you shouldn't need any gaskets . I haven't changed 1 myself so maybe someone who has can chip in but here's a couple of things you'd probably need . A couple of mtrs of vac line (cos it's cheap and some of yours might be perished ) and they look purdy lol . Plus a couple of vac line t pieces . Coolant (just a bit to top up if you remove the header tank) Jubilee clips various sizes. (as I remove mine I tend to put stainless worm drive ones in their place). Normally get Clips n vac line from "ash " auto silicone hoses but you'd have to check what dia your existing vac line is ,as my classics use at least 2 different dia pending on what they're for . Oh don't forget the swear tin and plasters lol

Yeah that's the turbo intake hose but standard turbo's don't have a 3" compressor inlet housing (oe is slightly smaller dia than 3" ). They are a pita to fit with the inlet manifold in situ but not impossible, just get the swear tin handy lol . Don't buy the cheapest options as they are poor fitting and "suck flat" under boost . But there are slightly cheaper options. .. scooby works ,japspeed ect might be a cheaper option

Icp or opie sell the crush washers , you could buy a magnetic sump plug and they normally come with a washer 😉

Long range parcel delivery turned up yesterday 4.5 days from my email to Oz to my door mat [emoji41] So I now have everything needed to map apexi [emoji6]

Did the ecu have any codes stored ? Did the maf have the same colour label and Did you reset the ecu after fitting the other parts ? Have you checked all vac lines and intake pipework (from air filter to throttle body ) for leaks or cracks ? Might be worth cleaning the idle control valve (just don't adjust the position ) .

Think you have to tick a box on the s.o.c membership form, if you don't want to get put on "the check up from the neck up " list . Otherwise you automatically go on the list for owning a performance daily driver [emoji23]

Just had a quick Google and apparently the p1 springs are discontinued. But here's the thread with owners comparing alternative options that I was on about . https://www.scoobynet.com/991887-prodrive-p1-lowering-springs-rare-purchase-opportunity-19.html

My front shocks were fubar'd on my v3 uk and the front sat 15mm different from drivers side to passengers side . But tbh you'd probably get the same if the springs were fubar'd too . Have you done a visual check for oil leakage around the suspect side shock ? If there's no height difference might be worth checking the rear arb bushes and droplinks . As these can also cause extra movement in the rear suspension when worn .

Shame you've already ordered the mid section, i've got a 3" classic cat back for sale £60 collected [emoji6]