savage bulldogs

Yep I was right the first time it's a rad panel. ..... fooked if I know where I saw alternator cover lol

Have a look at the fuel filler neck ,breather pipes and fuel pipes in that area . As the stone guard on the u bend on the filler neck traps mud which causes the neck to rot. This somtimes causes a leak when the tank is full but it stops once the the fuel level drops

Probably couldn't find the rad panel cos it's a alternator cover lol

There's a rad panel for sale in a garage clearance thread jeoff 😉

No problem bud, hope it's a cheap fix for you. The cam belt covers have lines of seals , one to seal the cambelt backing plate to the block/heads and 1 to seal the front covers to the backing plate . I mentioned this as it means oil can leak from a few places if the cam or crank seals are leaking . It also would be piece of mind to know that the cambelt isn't oil contaminated [emoji6]

I quite like the standard with a set of rotas look myself too ,but I am a bit biased 😉

Hi n welcome . All subarus are welcome on the club stands bud ..... ,hell we had a ford ka sneak in 1 year [emoji55] cos a members scoob spat it's dummy out a couple of days prior to a event [emoji57]

Ignore that last post ,as I couldn't see the pics ,no "4G" on the phone at the time and that looks like oil not coolant. Be careful tightening the sump bolts too much (google the torque settings) as the block is ally and the steel bolts will strip the threads quite easily. Most subarus don't have a sump gasket and use liquid sealant instead , so sometimes nipping them up a bit doesn't help and can pull the sump outta shape . You can buy a group n Cork sump gasket as a upgrade though [emoji6] Without seeing it in the flesh it's a bit difficult to pin point it ,so it could be any of the above . You could try removing the outer cambelt covers and checking if there's any oil leaking from the front crank and cam seals .

I'm definitely liking the de stickerd look on the leggy Geoff ,nice choice chap [emoji106] Did I read that your looking for some wrx 17's ? If so give it a search ,Cos I thought you had brembos on the front and I don't think wrx 17's clear brembos ,bud .

In that area ,There is a coolant hard pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil cooler at the front of the engine. They do tend to perish fairly easy due to being so close to the headers . So it might be worth a visual check if it's loosing coolant and not oil

I thought seeing as the old girl flies now ,I'd make the cabin look like a plane cockpit [emoji23] I've got the 4 in 1 gauge on the right ,just outta the pic too lol [emoji15] Dare'nt buy anymore ,cos i Think I'd need a uprated alternator to power them all up [emoji38] .

Day off fitting my afr gauge and restoring the black trim with solution finish 😎

Yeah I know where your coming from about learning the dark arts of ecu tweekery. As I've spent the morning fitting a aem afr kit [emoji6] But mine is already mapped safely by a reputable mapper and I have the drive train /engine already in place to handle the hp target . Even then once I'm confident enough to adjust ecu parameters I'll start by trimming fuel of boost under half throttle. I'd just say if you do go for it (and fit all the mods to your engine) back the timing and boost off before driving and logging anything. As your non forged pistons and 5 speed might not handle the v4 sti map at full throttle [emoji6]

I've heard that the jdm ecu's have the cam n crank sensor the other way round (dunno if there's any truth in it though) Also that the jdm's don't have a integrated imoblizer (unsure if that will affect you either lol ) . In theory if you fit the same auxiliaries (injectors, turbo, tmic same zorst / down pipe up pipe ect ) and the cam n crank sensors are correct , the only difference would be the sti cams and posible difference in compression ratio (between sti and uk versions ) due to different thickness headgasket and sti forged piston bowl sizes . So it might work..... But I wouldn't ever suggest that anyone bolts on a load of bits and uses a pre re mapped ecu from another scooby . Cos even if the engine model and mod spec is the same, all engines are slightly different (worn in different ways ) . So ignition and injector timing and boost levels should be set for each individual engine regardless of similarities. Maybe buy the ecu ,lead ,software , yellow 440cc and turbo (if they're cheap enough ) as you should break the 300hp mark with those mods . Then wait untill you can afford to pay to get it mapped by someone and fit the mods the day before . As you've had a few issues with you engine and drive train in the past . Last thing you want is for it to go bang, bud . At least if someone maps it for you ,you can data log with the software and teach Yourself a bit before trying to map tweek ,rather than jumping in on a full remap [emoji6]

My caddy is 5 x 112

Only thing I know about the arch gaps ,is that on both of my classics none of the them was the same lol

Just asked as it looks like camber wear and lowering throws the camber out and the rear camber can't be adjusted . Unsure if the rear control arm or lateral link bushes being worn would throw out the castor enough to cause wear but they might be worth checking

Is it on standard height suspension ?

Seemed to have a sticky caliper somewhere on the scoob as I'm getting a anoying rubbing noise . so decided to clean and re grease the brakes all round with some red rubber grease ...... I only finished 1 of the front brembos ,As I ended up stripping the pad kit out, cleaning , regreasing ,and giving the caliper a coat of poor boys wheel sealant . Then a combination of hang over and ocd side tracked me into washing ,waxing and sealing the rim On a plus side seeing as the rotas were sprayed 2.5 yrs ago and the firestone tyres have done 10k miles they both look in fairly good nick still (so my geo settings must be good to) So it now feels like I've got a odd sock on as I've only got one shiny arch [emoji23]

Apexi do a safc fueling computer so you can alter fueling without having a remap but it doesn't look anything like that . I certainly wouldn't adjust it until you know exactly what it does . As it could be a control box for anything ie hud display ,turbo timer ,fuel computer, boost controller ect . Id eco stants and say look for a manufacturers mark and model number and give it a google [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

No but i could do with shedding some weight elsewhere in the car to balance it out XD Take the back seats out ...... less weight and you'll hear the sub better [emoji39]

Used to have a 2k + watt system in my old car (pre scooby) this bad boy used to drive the air outta your lungs if you sat in the back seats [emoji12] With 4x vibe kevlar series component speakers in the doors powered by a alpine amp for added clarity at volume Lasted 2 weeks in the first scooby ..... nothing I listened to sounded as good as the scooby spool n burble [emoji23] Now I just run a alpine head unit ,vibe black series 6" components in the front and 6x9's in the rear shelf . Looks like a big bin for the dough though , nice choice [emoji106]

No thanks Geoff but thanks for your input [emoji8]

I'm not 100% what injectors the z4 runs, I do know it definitely runs a tdo5 16g and produces 260 hp . Unfortunately even if the z4 did run grey 380's, the fueling would be out (possibly due to the intake) plus the tdo4 spools earlier and the tdo5 16g pulls much harder later in the Rev range.

Diff ,bearings and bushes wouldn't have any load on them with the car off the ground . So probably wouldn't show the same symptoms. It might be worth checking wheel bearings and suspension for play while it's in the air . Although knocking shocks and bushes don't make a rotational noise when worn themselves , if they have a lot of play they can cause the wheel to be out of alignment and cause tyre wear /rotating noise [emoji6]