Jump to content

savage bulldogs

Moderators
  • Posts

    5,456
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    392

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Events

Gallery

Store

Premium Membership Discounts

Subaru Videos

Subaru News

Everything posted by savage bulldogs

  1. Unfortunately I don't know what else to try tbh , as I've only ever had that 1 "mechanical " issue with my central locking . If you were closer I'd let you try my central locking box , is there anyone else near you that would let you do the same ? I have bought a few things of f.b from a fella called Toby Morgan that lives in your neck of the woods but unsure if he has a box in stock .
  2. Rip fozzy [emoji26] At least it was on the donor list and will help many more scoobs live on . Guess you'll be counting down the days untill you can get another 1 but untill then you can buy cheap fuel to chuck in the focar5e [emoji55]
  3. Tyre foam cleaner works fairly well on plastic arch liners too 😉
  4. Same symptoms as mine , I will admit the clamp was in 1 piece and both bars moved but I noticed a clean section on the rods (where the clamp used to be ) . When I loosened the clamp and pulled the rod that was attached to the internal drivers door lock (orange button in the handle) all doors locked . I Give that a try to see if it locks the other doors maybe ? . As I think the remote opens the drivers door and the rod to the internal lock opens the rest of the doors when it's operated. It was only when I loosened the clamp that I noticed it had a crack in it . Hence the cable ties.
  5. Roll centre correction kit and rear camber bolts , if you intend on running coilovers stiff n low. As it helps reduce bump steer and helps correct the camber on the rear when having a geo set up done
  6. Check the clamp that holds these 2 bars together in the drivers door mechanism. Mine had a crack in it letting the 2 bars move separately and not operating the rest of the doors I just used cable ties for a quick fix as icp can't get the clamps new so I'll have to find some off a breaker . Hopefully it's the same issue on yours
  7. When you lock /unlock the car can you hear the central locking making any noise ? As mine stopped working and it was a broken clamp that holds the internal door mechanism bars together.
  8. Jdm are generally better spec but apart from engine internals and gearbox ratios most parts are the same as uk cars . The spec c's and ra r's are a bit more raw to drive due to being a bit lighter (no side skirts or boot carpet ect ) and I think the suspension is a bit more track based. They probably feel a bit less refined compared to a sti of the same year but seeing as your looking at low milage examples, I'd imagine it's not gonna be a daily driver. so thought I'd mention a couple of rare jdm versions that will probably hold their value too
  9. Have you considered a jdm spec c ? Hawk eye looks but solid jdm 2ltr forged engine .best of both worlds and normally in white 😉
  10. Might just be due to the bank holiday weekend that they haven't sorted things . At least they haven't taken any funds yet , so I'd check their opening hours and phone them up to ask what they're playing at .
  11. Pop the crank sensor off is the usual way as there's no chance of it firing up if there's a bit fuel left in the rails . Crank sensor plug (in tidgy's pic) is easy to get to and cuts ignition spark so it won't start but will turn over . This helps get the oil all round the engine to avoid any dry start up damage 😉
  12. Rear lights on a classic are sealed with some sort of mastic from the factory. It's weird stuff they use as it never drys and I got fooking covered in the stuff when removing the lights on my old v3 uk lol Just had a better look at the pics , the outer black plastic always has a gap but the lights back plate is sealed into the bodywork with the sticky mastic stuff (when you fit the lights into the car )
  13. I think it's due to the positive pressure in the fmic pipework and core pushing back at the turbo when you let off the gas. You could fit a weaker spring to the bov so it releases boost to a lower pressure or fit a recirc valve instead of vta [emoji6] Me personally, I like the flutter and have a stronger spring in my old school bailey's to make it do it all the more [emoji108]
  14. If it's a esl daughter board in a standard ecu (to make it mappable) the self code check function should still work . The odb ports on classics are pretty useless tbh and hardly work with most brands of code readers 😉
  15. I have read somewhere that some jdm and uk versions have cam and crank sensors running oppersite pins , how much truth is in this I don't know but it might be worth a google. Are the engine loom earth's and plugs all making a good connection? I dare say the timing and airflow would be out due to the different cams uk cams and newage tmic size difference. If all else fails, Maybe a dyno run to check afr and knock levels.
  16. If it's running a standard ecu search for the classic self ecu code check sticky thread on here . Then to see if any fault codes are stored . If not what what ecu is in the car ? Classics do tend to suffer from fuel slosh which causes fuel starvation and fuel cut when cornering hard with under half a tank (which can also give the same sort of symptoms )
  17. Gutted for you stants ,Where's the dislike button [emoji107] Hopefully you won't be without burble for too long bud
  18. Could try asking Darren at abw or someone at ht autos about splitter fitment ,tidgy 😉
  19. Yeah you get a lot more induction and spool noise from a cone filter or induction kit . most only fit them over 300hp on classics as most fmic kit pipework gets in the way ,although newage sti's can produce 400hp + with a panel filter ,tmic and air box . Imo (once mapped in) the Only real downside to fitting a cone filter is it will draw in hot air from under the bonnet ,rather than colder denser air from outside the bay (like the standard air box does). You can help this buy buying a induction kit with a heat shield ,making up a cold air feed or position the filter closer to the hole in the inner wing that the oe box uses to draw air 😉
  20. I've only owned classics, so couldn't tell you what the difference between them is . But they're not the same ,as bug onwards drop links , abs and arb bushes have different part numbers / listings than classic ones
  21. Nippy nought time was it bud [emoji5] At least it's a easy fix fella 😉
  22. I thought that gambit might come out of hiding if I keep mentioning nipples on a post [emoji4]
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership


  • Insurance
  • Unread Content
  • Support