savage bulldogs

What turbo is on it at the moment and what year is it , bud ?

Nice choice chap [emoji41] . How are you finding the drive compared to the previous newages.

Main tin worm areas on a classic are inner rear arches where the rear bumper fixings are and where inner /outer arch meet (normally seen from behind the side boot liners) the top of rear suspension turrets collect mud and rot . Front lower cross member and front /rear bumper bars .

I've never removed 1 myself but if the engine mounts are bolted to it , I dare say you can support the engines weight on a hoist and leave it in situ while you unbolt the subframe [emoji6]

Hi n welcome. Always good to hear a classic is being restored rather than broken for spares[emoji106] At least you sound prepared for "project creep " it normally catches most people out ,cos these cars seem to stealth their way under your skin [emoji23]

any excuse to put a pic of jolly green monster's monster classics bay [emoji7]

That could be the oe air density sensor plug but I'd have to check mine when I get chance . Afaik They don't have a air intake sensor as standard , I fitted a aftermarket one from jt inovations on mine in the fmic core to throttle body pipework when I had a mafless map done . As this will give the correct reading for the temps entering the inlet .

Looks Loads better imo and you can probably sell the other rims to pay for the open source software [emoji6]

Scoobies do tend to get airlocks when the coolant system gets refilled. Sometimes jacking the front up and running it up till the fans cut in helps to get rid of air locks . I know how to bleed a classic system but unsure about newage as they have a extra cap on the rad . Hopefully someone who knows will be along to help with the newage bleeding. If the thermostat is blocking the flow, the bottom rad hose will feel much colder than the top hose . As the bottom hose connects directly to the thermostat housing [emoji6]

I know someone with a bog standard cashmere yellow v3 type r , think he wants about 7k for it .

Just saw a pic on f.b that sky sports f1 had of japshow finale of cusco's waggon Didn't watch it myself so don't know if there was any others on there

Could just be a tps issue as the v1 /v2's and v3 / v4 have a different number of wires going to the tps . I'm not sure how many wires the v5 /v6 phase 2 have ? There used to be someone who made adapters to allow you to fit a phase 2 v5/v6 inlet manifold onto the earlier phase 1.5 heads . They might be a better option as you could then use the cars original v5/v6 phase 2 inlet manifold, tps ,icv ect Try giving phase 2 manifold on phase 1.5 heads a google Just re read your post and noticed that your running grey 380's. This would mean that the fuelling is wrong , so I'd suggest you fit some phase 2 yellow 440's with phase adapters asap and don't use boost untill they're fitted .

Think Matt's on the lookout for another gc8 to add to his collection lol

Can't beat the silver scoob with black wheels combo [emoji6] I've only ever been in the passenger seat of a blobeye wrx running 290 hp but It felt a bit too tame and refined for me . It did only have tein springs and 18's for suspension mods though

Sounds like a plan but I'll give the trannies a miss [emoji33] [emoji23]

I think the vf35 is fairly similar to the tdo5 16g anyways just newer . Garys 02 bug sti had a vf34 and made 330hp with a cone ,intake pipe ,3" downpipe and remap

Looks quite clean , what is the tyre size on those rims ? The side walls look bigger than normal and if so it might explain the soft ride you were complaining about in the other thread .

Get some Chinese coilovers, they'll make the handling harsh as fook

I hope I don't get hacked as well [emoji33] [emoji23] Has the wagon gone then matt ? Any mods on the bug ?

What's your target power , budget and have you already got any supporting mods ? Do you want top end power or quick spool ?

Who are you and how did you get Matt's login details .......

Guess a by pass will get it running again but I'd try to trace the fault and fix it , especially as it's blowing big fuses . I wouldn't try a different ecu yet either ,well not until it's fixed as you could end up frying a new ecu if the faults still there.

I'm personally not a fan of slammed, cambered cars with stretched tyres . I'd be too worried about breaking something going into a corner too hard . But hey modding is all about making YOUR own mark on a car , so fill yer boots bud 😆 I've got this spoilerless pic of my classic when I was switching spoilers . Not excatly slammed n cambered but it had 17" rota boosts and elbaich springs

I bought a oversized (and over priced by the sounds of it lol ) k& n filter with a "easy to remove" nut on the bottom . Dunno if it the same 1 that you've found ,as it was about 4 yrs ago and about £15 P.s I forgot to mention that the only reason I bought it was because there was a load of fake or faulty subaru ones on the market at the time . The Mahle one's seem to work fine on mine but I do 4 k changes anyways

Quite possible that overboost could bring up a pressure code but I'd imagine that the air density sensor vac line popping off would probably be the most likely culprit.