Greenmamba

is it the aircon condensate drain blocked? Or heater core?

Reasonably easy for the front 4. The back 2, 1 each side were a pain as space is very tight. The coil packs, not so much but the plugs were a b*tch cause I had to chop and change socket extensions due to space - the side chassis rails got in the way of the extensions. All told, about an hour, maybe a bit more each side.

Might be worth checking the remote's (key) battery?

When I did my plugs it was from below (splash tray removed) but I have skinny hands and various short socket extensions. Removing the battery shouldn't mess with radio codes (if it's anything like mine - integrated radio/6 CD changer, maybe different if you have aftermarket radio) or you could use a "code/battery" saver as some have done. Basically, jump leads (or similar, some use a 9v battery rigged with crocodile clips) to the positive/negative supply to maintain current to car when the main battery posts are disconnected. If you disconnect completely, ensure the key is not in the ignition - if it is, the car's alarm will sound and you can't reset it until reconnecting the main battery.

You are welcome.

How long between unlocking the car and trying to start? If more than 20-30 seconds, the immobiliser kicks in. The key should have a small button - pressing this with the ignition keyy in the start position (gauge lights on) should override the immod and the car will start. There should be a small red led on top of the steering column - if that led is on, the car (on ignition) should start. If it's off, pushing the little button (on key) should illuminate the led indicating the car is ready to start.

Good job. Did that myself a while back. Make sure you use rubber grease on the slide pins.

Undoubtedly

If it's seriously stuck, may be time for new (rebuilt) calipers. If you have time, you could try penetrating spray or heat, but likely will struggle.

Quick question - following going dead, what next? When does it start behaving normally again? Simple turn of the key, or must you wait a while?

I still have my Outback/Legacy (from 2001 car) Momo steering wheel w/wood rim, complete with airbag for sale. I'm thinking £40. It all works. Very minor cosmetic marks to rim, otherwise works fine; only selling as I re-fitted the original wheel to the car before I sold it! It has cruise control engagement lever. Would fit series around the date shown above, may fit other models. Not sure about Impreza fitting. I'm in Kent and would prefer collection (freightage at buyers cost and risk).

Hello, welcome.

The drain could have come adrift from where it connects to the sunroof, so from B to D would be about right. First, though is to establish that the drain is in fact the cause of the water ingress!

No worries. I just noticed - I said the C post, should read D post (the one by the tailgate).

Sunroofs usually have 2 drains, 2 each side, one going forward down the A post and discharging behind the front wheel; the back drain goes down the C post and probably (not sure about Fozzies) through the area around the subwoofer and then out via a little flap underneath the car behind the back wheel. When you've got the SR open, trickling a little water into the gully on the "faulty" side should result in that water either a) soaking the headliner or b) dripping onto the ground behind the back wheel. if it doesn't emerge onto the ground, it's probably the leak. To access the pipe, the headliner will have to come down between the B and C post for inspection. The drain may be either blocked, in which case clearance may be by air hose/wire/sucking/whatever; if it's not blocked, there's likely a break somewhere obscure and inspecting behind the headliner is called for.

Do you have a sunroof? If so, one of the drains may be blocked or disconnected.

I dont know if it's any use to you, I have a electronic copy of the 2005-2009 series. May cover your car? Does not have anything diesel however.

Have you got a sunroof, if so the drain/s may be blocked or separated. When you say the "top light" - do you mean the high level brake light?

The way I understand it, cat efficiency bank 1 codes can be triggered by a number of causes, most not directly connected to the cat or the lambda sensor. These include; A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S) Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / silencer / exhaust pipe Retarded spark timing The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar readings Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure Cylinder misfire Oil contamination Poor fuel quality Vacuum leaks You might want to try a little sleuthing before changing parts.

David 1972 has it accurate. Going to 55 will affect speedo as it is the profile. The width of the tyre, that which is the "footprint" on the road, is the 215 or 225 figure, I think in mm.

Transmission fluid filter. Not usually replaced (lifetime fitment generally) but if you do, best use OEM filter. Remove battery to make room.

A couple of thoughts, one of them a bit random. If the hooter and/or cruise control still work fine, it's likely not failure due to break in clock spring (aka roll connector) - the spring-like ribbon cable built into the steering column below the steering wheel (also manages the s/wheel airbag). But it still could be, there are around 8 wires, doing different jobs in the cable. The random one - some Outbacks circa 2004/5/6 - airbag light can come on due to faulty solder joint in the circuit board built into the overhead map light cluster. If your car has overhead map lights - yes, I know its a Forester, not an OB - (near the inside rearview mirror), maybe, just maybe it could similarly be a dry solder joint there. I said it was random!

I'd first get underneath and check both are still connected. Almost unheard of for both to fail at the same time.

That doesn't sound good at all. I hope you didn't pay too much, if the motor's seized, repairing may be more than the car is worth.

If it's anything like mine, the upstream sensor is a 4-wire Denso. With VAT, the local dealer quoted £250 each to buy, extra to fit.