Scoobyghost

I find motorsport takes more skill. You can jump on horizon and have a hoon about with no real concentration and still win races. On motorsport using unbeatable ai if you make one mistake it could mean the end of your race or minimum finishing in second. They're both good games for what they are just depends what you fancy that day. I've always gone back to motorsport over horizon.

Good ol red and blue spanner. Did you pre soak them in WD40? I done a rear hub a few weeks back and the 4 weeks leading up to the job I'd give all the nuts and bolts a squirt of WD. It made the job far too easy not a single seizure.

If you get hold of Duncan I'm sure he will point you the right way. I'm on a classic and UK models have two ports. Bought one from a forum member and Duncan wired it in for me.

I got mine from an imported classic. Second hand. Not sure what you need for yours.

P0244 is basically over-boost? As stants said, when I was mapped my target was set to 1.3bar and limit at 1.4bar. 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear were all fine but if I got high in the revs in 4th I'd get boost cut. When I monitored the boost gauge I noticed I was hitting 1.4bar. Called Duncan and told him this, he explained that I was hitting the limit which caused the cut. Within two weeks he came to my house and fixed the problem. He commented highly on the condition of my engine(Feeds ego) so rather than lower my target he increased my limit to 1.5bar. I haven't had any issues since. I can still hit 1.4bar in the higher gears but to do that I need to be doing 110mph+ [emoji12] And of course none of us do that.

Manifold will definitely need mapping in. Keep that in mind. Unless it's months/years after first map you'd hate to shell out for another map just a few weeks later.

The market is there because like yourself, buyers want a burble.

[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

I suppose that extra and you can keep up and hear the real subarus [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

Dat burble tho

Mapping each section in will cost an arm and a leg. You can get away with fitting the centre/rear without an issue. I only had one cat so I'm unsure about removing the second cat but with the first still in place I can't expect it to over boost too much. The remap would be to sort out the fuelling and control over-boost.

Hi, I see you're in Kent. If you're local I'd gladly pop down or you can come to me or even pop to one of our monthly meets for some hands on fiddling.

Happy New year! Woo!

Happy New year guys. Ready for another one? [emoji41] [emoji57] [emoji18]

Unfortunately I can't say which injectors to go for. It's a bit beyond my knowledge. As for second hand units, it's always a risk because you don't want one failed when giving it some beans.

What turbo is on it? I'm guessing it's import so will have a TD05. If that's the case you should see over 300.

What's going on here then [emoji57] [emoji41] Was a while ago now. When I bought the car previous owner told me he had the system tested and found the evaporator was leaking. He didn't bother repairing/replacing it and I've never used air con in a car so wasn't missing much. Roll on to when we done the cambelt and while it was off we decided to leave the belt off(Air con belt is separate) stripped the pump out, some pipework and the air con rad. I haven't had any lights at all before or after removal. Even when switching the air con on(devil makes work for idle thumbs) there was a button and it had to be pressed for science. Anyway moral of the story is, you can remove your air con with no ill effects towards the running of the car and it won't throw up any engine lights. Plus one less belt for the engine to power [emoji57] [emoji18]

How you getting on with the wheel now?

Had a bit of time today and Finn wanted to watch some racing. What better than to get back on the top of the leader board. 1:19.495. Did anyone decide on a new track/car?

Oe oil pressure sensor triggers at around 5psi.

I done a bit of research and found on clubwrx it is mentioned the actual size is 3.5mm. May be worth using 3mm and lube or go for 4mm and use some ties at the ends. Also not sure of the pills diameter. If you change that section you want that snug.

I bought 3mm and 5mm. Found the 3mm to be a bit tight so needed lubing.

Dirty !Removed!! Hate to see that. We work hard for what we have just for some little scumbag to come along thinking they can just pinch it and do one. Not nice at all.

Stants will see you right. He helped me with mine. I even stole his ptfe tape while we were at japshow. I've still got it [emoji23]

You will need to buy adapters for the oil sensors. These can be had for roughly £30. The job itself is pretty simple but be warned, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the oil adapters. The thread is soft and they will be under high pressure. Wrap a bit of ptfe tape around them. I made the mistake and didn't do that first time so had to take them back out and refit. This is the T piece under the alternator. My gauge. Size difference. Sensor on left adapter on right.