Jay762

Sorry cant answer that one - its one of those things I just havent got around to buying - Steve has handled that side of things to date

Thanks for the photo's - they look in mint condition - hopefully they will find a home, good luck

great shots that helps a lot. My theory - someone has tried to put an old style coil on your engine - they have used the lead as well knowing that the original correct part would not connect to the existing loom, they may well have spliced that into the loom - hopefully not, they have bolted the replacement coil pack down with the original correct connection trapped underneath. Does the lead currently connected to the coil go anywhere? Is that the one you said is not connected to anything? If so remove the coil pack and check the lead trapped underneath, does that look like it would plug into a correct coil unit? is it still part of the loom, can you trace it? Optimistic solution, replace the coil pack with one correct for the model, plug into the trapped lead and you get a spark

removing the standard cat should get you some gains - not had any experience of magnex stuff - they used to have a great rep but that was many years ago so I wouldn't like to say

here you go http://www.mufflebox.com/collections/subaru/clothing

Let us know how you get on ;)

no problem then - fit the pipe and get it mapped

Cant help you with the boot cover - sorry

5w 30 magnatec would be fine I always go for a JASO or API rated brand of which Castrol do tend to have those - as a member you can get a discount from Opie Oils their ebay model search engine gives a few options http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Opie-Oils/_i.html/_i.html?submit=&_nkw=%28161174144409,161174144494,161174144559,161174144566,171194827777,171194827839,181281326322,181281326323,181281326356,181281326417,181281838190%29

any chance you post a photo of it??

I know Matt modded his airbox to allow cold air straight in from below the filter - no cost but I don't know if it increased the induction noise at all

Wotcha and welcome - if you have addressed the exhaust flow look at hi flow filters for the air on the way in then get it mapped to suit. from then its looking at increased fuel supply, FMIC, larger turbo, uprated internals, flowed heads, uprated clutch, brakes and chassis components (bushes ARBs etc) and cooling system. You could look at the handling side first and increase power to weight ratio by lowering the weight sorting brakes and suspension then with the same power you could be moving a lot quicker?

ok so I just googled that one and it looks like it refers to the resonator feed into the filter box having holes cut in it - is that correct?

feel free to introduce yourself - post photos etc

Any chance you could stick up some pictures of the coil itself, the lead hidden away down the back, and the lead that it is plugged into the coil pack. It may be the person who fitted the incorrect coil pack managed to connect a cable to it - that may not necessarily make it the right pack or lead to connect it. x3 basic things to make an engine go (in a common petrol engine) - a spark, some fuel, some air. will the engine turn over on battery power alone when you turn the ignition key? does the fuel pump prime and fuel flow to the engine bay? have you got a free flow from air intake and out the exhaust - no debris or blockages?

Lovely example there Pete - after your recent modification I was expecting gold booties :D

new one on me - what is a 'snorkus' ?

I would say they are different, Ill wager you need the later one given you have a 2000 fozzy, which removes the need for a separate module.

good point - it might also attract some unnecessary attention from Dibble thinking you have a brake light out when actually it is working fine but as a fog light

Rollomite plus a few others have had great results from doing stuff themselves, why not try that route?

when it comes to finishing the car - paint job or wrap - cheap and good don't tend to go hand in hand. these chaps are in Cradley might be worth a conversation http://www.marksautobodies.co.uk/

Nice one Pete I forgot the pad slap one if you are worried about the turbo noise make a short video and post it or compare it to vids on you tube etc

its a simple procedure save yourself some money... http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/2366-manually-reading-ecu-codes-classic-shape-only/

it could be a number of things, top suspension mount worn, worn bush on the lower arms somewhere, possibly the differential settling with change of direction. wrt the disc - I would replace them as a pair unless the other one is nearly new but, what I would ask is why there has not been even disc wear on both sides - it could indicate seized piston in the caliper which has caused the brake pad to be constantly dragging on the disc??

Its probably some woodland creature wondering what the hell happened, one minute foraging in a field next vacuumed up by some huge induction system :D