Jay762

about 3 hours for me ;)

get the pads out then pump them 95% out, yes you end with more brake fluid to drain but it is easier than spending time trying to get them out with the brake caliper tool - the really easy way is a grease gun and penetrating oil that way they dont fire pistons all over your garage etc when they go pop

Why eye man thats b'cus ye canne speak the Glasgae dialect - :P You need to get schooled by the master http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AqzSAb62D8

Its a nice run though down the coast through the NE of England

Wotcha and welcome - it depends on your budget but start with air in exhaust out - hi flow filter, larger induction tube and a free flow larger diameter exhaust, manifold and down pipe with an ECU remap. A different way is to source a turbo version of the legacy and do a transplant. Be aware of more power means your brakes and suspension will be tested more so make sure they are up to the task of keeping you on the road and out of someone elses boot ;)

Pays to shop around, all sounds promising

Thanks Thanks

Not in anyway Subaru related but saw this on a different forum and just sat doing a goldfish impression

Slick 50 is an oil treatment / additive and there is a product designed for engines over 75K miles on the clock, use of a decent oil should mean you don't need the additives however where things like that do come into their own is if the engine has thick oily deposits internally that need breaking down so completing an engine flush as part of a service routine would address that. With the oil it is as much to do with its capability to withstand shear under load as how thick - we have a resident oil guru (oilman) who would be able to give specific recommendations for your model and maybe more peace of mind than one of the forum member could. He also provides a discount to club members using SUBOC at the checkout. http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/872-club-update-from-oilman-opie-oils/ complete the search recommendations for your car here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/product-finder/car/engine-oil/subaru/product-finder-2.aspx some oil info http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/323-lubricating-a-modified-car-some-info-from-oilman-opie-oils/ http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/forums/topic/320-some-basic-oil-advice-from-oilman-opie-oils/

thats easy I just have all my passwords as ******** then I never forget them and it even gives you a big hint on most sites as to what it would be

There are some items available in the US domestic market only - would you ship internationally?

Wotcha and welcome - no such thing a daft question particularly if you are just getting involved with something. Having had the belts changed is a good thing, the engine should be good for another 100,000 if there is a consistent service history, you will need a new exhaust and turbo rebuild at some point but with a view to keeping the car for a while you could go for a stainless steel option with a lifetime guarantee. The turbo build will vary dependant on type, some have bearing rollers which whilst the offer better operation and last longer are more expensive in the first place. On ebay for example there is a unit from a breaker for £80 or a brand new standard replacement for £500 or you could have your own rebuilt for about £350. Main bearings can go if the shaft has not been properly aligned during manufacture but seeing as yours has done 100k just check for a noisy idle. There are a couple of video links on this site to engines that have had bearings fail on them so you know what to listen for. Check for rust on rear wheel arches. milky coloured oil, clunking of bearings when on full lock and turning, tyre tread depth, all electrical things functioning. As other come on line I'm sure they will provide additional info

I think with how you have dealt with the car so far this will be easily resolved. Grab a cup of horlicks (Gambit would probably tell you bovril ) cuddle the missus and have a look in the morning. You know whats good and you have had something break as well which may affect the error codes on top of resetting the ECU so multiple scenarios which can be approached in the light of day eliminated one by one. But it is good you are getting your wheels done as well - an inconvenient bonus

Wotcha and welcome - cant knock the black and silver combo either way it is set, nice looking vehicle you have there I'm assuming the rust on the photo link is from the defender and not something you found on the Impreza ;)

I haven't imported subaru stuff (only had the car a couple of months), more things like MTX amps for ICE installs, pro circuit pipes and silencers, suspension parts, cylinder heads, Boston pro speakers - am currently researching a sub and box specifically made for the subaru impreza US market which could be the next import. I look at importing things that are generally unavailable to the UK market but command a premium by UK distributors

Wotcha and welcome - that is a great looking car - if the knocking does go away I would agree with the other comments running maybe a slightly thicker oil or keeping with the thin stuff but wait until it is settled before driving. The outside looks clean has the engine bay had the same attention? 102K is not a stupidly high mileage particularly if there is a service history so it may just be the oil needs to get around the engine - bearing in mind with thinner oil it will run straight to the sump when you stop leaving parts uncoated internally the heavier weights or things like castrol magnetec will leave a thin layer

As a SOC member you get discount, worth a call http://uk.subaruownersclub.com/feature/owners-club-insurance

I am typing this from the naughty step, having a time out :P

So just got my hands on it and some young rapscallion on page 38 has 85% of my shopping list already in place, green eyed monster indeed - but at least I know it will all work as I would like :P

I did get stuff from the states on regular occasions and it still worked out slightly cheaper even with the man taking his considerable chunk, just check for warranty cover though - EU countries can ship with less tax impact an I know some bring products in from the far east so it is worth researching. flip side - we are in a recession and supporting in country is a good thing, IMO, so contract the distributor and see if a deal can be made, check on this site and see if others are interested and a bulk buy could be had which would engineer a discount

A goodly idea - a bit of a wander off topic - the mods should have prompted this

my 2p - the closed deck is a good position to start with as its designed with strength / performance in mind. If you rebuild based on that you will know exactly what state the engine is in and have a good baseline for any future work. I would go with the 2.2 stroker option and stick with the closed deck.

the bigger cubes should give more torque, you should be able to get 350bhp from a standard bore and stroke (with uprated components) but running a larger capacity allows for more mixture within the chambers so you should be able to run a lower boost to get the same bang as smaller capacity unit which would have to run higher levels

Its addictive, ssssshh, dont tell otherwise they will ban it ;)

Hey you know what they say - 'if there aren't any pics it hasn't happened' dont be camera shy share the shineyness