Tidgy

Well sheet, sadly had an overheating incident and now its been looked at had the bad news that its done the headgasket (was suspected to have done so before being stripped), engine was origionaly built 9 years ago so its done pretty well give the age and power its running. Engines been pulled and stripped, headgasket gone on cylinder 1 and 4. Block bores are out of round (common on a 2.5), it's already been bored before so sadly its going in the bin. Crank is scored due to debris so is also going in the bin. Then the usual typical stuff found when an engine is stripped such as valve guides are worn, crack in one of the cam sprockets and general wear and tare to be expected from the age and milage of the engine. After a bit of discussion about options and longer term plans to keep ther car or not been decided to basicly go balls deep on the rebuild lol I supose since its me was always gonna be that way haha. spec will be, (includes a few replacement parts that were showing their age such as the oil pan, coolant pipes etc) New EJ 257 Block halves Closed decking of engine block Re-bore and all cylinders to 99.75mm Mahle forged piston set Forged connecting rod set ACL Race main bearing set ACL Race connecting rod bearing set OE Nitrided crankshaft Oil pump Water pump Thermostat 8x GSC Manganese exhaust valve guides plus fitting 8x Intake valves 8x Exhaust valves 1x Valve lifter bucket 2x RCM Uprated head gaskets 1x 3 bolt up-pipe to header gasket 1x Down pipe gasket R/H inner timing cover R/H Exhaust camshaft sprocket ( RCM Aluminium upgrade sprockets recommended ) Complete timing belt kit Heater coolant return pipe EGT Thermocouple Rear crankcase breather pipe Top balance pipe centre return hose Oil pan Oil filter Engine oil Coolant Zinc plated bolt and bracket set The coolant hose’s will need replacing due to degradation on both options. Phew thats some list. As usual theres a fair que for the engine builds up at clinic so gonna be a few months till we get it back.

About right price wise tbh, be interested to know what they mean by 'race parts' at that price it won't be an uprated gear kit. Also claiming 'will last the lifetime of the car' is total rubbish, drive it hard enough and no matter what's in the box it will break.

I would have thought the part numbers will be the same if they are.

I'm sure your aware the normal one is a crapy plastic bag lol The grey carpet type material looks like alot of chinese generic tool bags on amazon, so i would take a guess its justa a branded one of those.

Tell dan to stop oggling and get some work done,,,, lmao looks tidy, whast the spec on it?

glad it was a cheap fix 😄

need to get a sniff test done to see if the headgasket has gone.

illuminating,,, lol

sounds like the light switch has actualy been wired to the accelerator haha

had some fitment issues with the offsets so they had to go back for an adjustement. they can be a bit squeeky at times and tend to vibrate when you brake hard, but man they bite hard. not had any clunking though :s

welcome, it's a good place to start 😄 Get some pics up

welcome 😄

Well get some pics up then 😄 lol

tbh its not the worst ive seen 😮 alot of what you can see are bolt ons (rear subframe etc), if your pockets run that deep of course.

Gone through a few on mine in the past 18 months and turns out there was a fault on the charging circuit.

Get a specialist to check it, could be nothing serious, such as a belt tensioner, or could be bearings (they tend to be noisey at lower revs before they totaly fail)

You could try scoobyclinic at chesterfield

friendly MOT place 😉 Sports cats can be a bit hit and miss, mine had one for many years and did pass, but i know folks who have had them and not.

Just take off the heatshield, leave it off and save yourself some money

looks like the exhaust maifold heatsheild. has it rusted through?

Beware cheap jobs. they rust from the inside out so it's 99% probable the damage will be considerably worse on the inner arch. untill the external panels are stripped off to see how bad the damage is you wont know. it can affect everything from the fuel filler to the suspention tower. Im not trying to cause you panic as it is unlikley not repairable, I just warn you as a paint over it cheap job will only make things worse in the long run. Realisticly your prob talking anywhere from £800 a side upwards for a decent job including blending in etc.

Yeah should be in the history, if not then will be tiral an error if a mechanic cant get the fault to replicate to understand it.

Have you had it checked out to see what the code is?

nice 😄 bet you were like a kid at christmas during its transport

Will be a standard mechanism so non model specific, should be easier to find. try import car parts