Tidgy

tbh it really depends on how long its been sat and how lucky you are, it's gonna be step by step to check what state things are in before moving on. Full fluid change (coolant, engine, oil, gearbox, diff etc etc), fuel in the tank will need draining and replacing, fuel pump in the tank, fuel filter in the engine bay, all belts, tyres (as im assuming multiple years) all filters, prob spark plugs as well. I would sugest first making sure you can hand crank the engine so you know its not siezed, Prob then worth doing the engine oil and filter, collant, fuel and fuel filter then see if you can get oil pressure before then trying to fire it up. If you cant get it started could mean there are more serious issues at which point your then into is it worth pulling the engine etc etc. A bad example could be if it was stored without proper coolant and just had water in it. If so it could well have frozen and split the heater matrix, lifted the head etc etc Additionaly a leakdown test would be a good idea. !!!!!!!!!Make sure you crank the engine over without letting it start to get a good flow and good pressure before trying to start it!!!!!!!. After that its prob a case of seeing what happens, you may find lots of dfferent fluid leaks (be very carefull of anything that might catch fire!!!!!!!!!!!!!) from withered pipes, failed rubber seals etc etc, all you can really do its see how it goes. If you get to the stage of test driving it, be very carfull of failing brakes and leaking suspension when you drive it. i'd advise very gradual steps.

welcome, the only daft question is the one not asked 😄

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine says on there 🙂

Prices are all over the shop tbh, being a uk turbo as apposed to sti will reduce its value. See if you get any offers close to that and if not and need a sale do the usual of gradualy reducing it till you do.

Welcome Eurocarparts, import car parts and then specialists are your best bet.

Oil drip wont be the headgasket (doesnt show external), so my first port of call would be check where the oils coming from. As far as thump im not sure what you mean, do you mean rod knock? if so then its engine shagged

Walk away, the arches rust from inside out and your prob looking at £1000 a side at least as it sound slike the inner arches are shot if its got up as far as the suspension mounts., Rear subframe is also a big job as you have to drop pretty much the whole rear end, so prob another £500 Simply put, just isnt worth it.

They dont call em styealers for nothing 😉

tbh i wouldn't bother with the cylinder mod, i''ve not had it on any of my cars.

Yikes, not the first and wont be the last 😞

Welcome, whats your plans for it?

chuck your reg into eurocarparts and see what it kicks out.

Short version, yep, will need a full rebuild. Copper fillings in the oil very highly likley means the crank bearings are damaged (could have ring land issues, but untill its stripped you wont know. although ring land failure is common so would be no surprise) As far as what you do its up to you really, a proper reabuild wont be cheap if done properly, If the shell is solid and you plan on keeping the car long term may be worth the cost. Rolling shell of a wrx isnt worth much, maybe 1-2k at best, it's doubtful the cost of a rebuild will increase the value of the car to make it cost effective to rebuild then sell.

tbh i'd just look for a reputable local car transporter.

Never heard of needing to do it, i've always just disconect, replace, reconnected opn all the cars i;ve owned :S

i inititaly had pedders on my hawk, had nothing but issues with them so in the end got rid of them and had tein flex z fitted, can't fault them tbh, firm but not crashy and a big step up on the stock and pedders.

Very common thing on them, replace is only real option, give a few breakers a call and see if they have a decent one

Welcome, get some pics up :d Afraid I can't help with whos down that way

welcome 😄

Take it back to where ver you had the clutch fitted and get them to sort it.

nice, get some pics up 😄

Have to say im not sure what alarm is fitted to the newer ones. It used to have a number panel you could bind keys and such to.

If you look at the pics on that thread, the last pic, round vertical can attached to the bulkhead. Only hicup is i doubt it will fit with the standard top mount intercooler. Does yours have the secondary air system? where the pump sits could be a possible place if not. Get some pics up of yours by the wsay 🙂

yeah 56 plate,

The wife's has a perrin A/O seperator. not sure if its a difrect fit though.