Tidgy

welcome 🙂

So cars back, not alot to show tbh, cant see any difference, apart from lighter wallet haha. One side neeeded a couple of areas cut out and patched (pretty small areas) other side was ok, just needed a clean up and reundersealing. Passed its mot without even a minor after that 😄

welcome. commented on your other post 🙂

i wouldnt let him anywhere near my car even if he paid me. seen plenty of people shafted by him, including one on here despite my warning before hand. He doesnt put enough time into mapping it (you can't map 10 cars ina day), he doesnt road test following a dyno map, he maps when the cars have sensor faults (no you cant map round a duff sensor) and when things go wrong he hides and stopps responding. He was labeled Dungkhan by andy forrest so that should tell you something, not to mention he doesnt dare post on any forums any more after being shown to be technicly enepty by multiple tuners and mappers.

welcome, miles of smiles 😄

hehe nice, i love a sleeper 😄

Yeah, they all go eventually, just hadn't expected the bill 🙄. Semi good news is it looks lime only one side needs doing.

Well balls. Went for its mot yesterday and failed 😞 sills need doing. So back on a flatbed and off up to clinic for some tlc, I can't imagine this is gon a be cheap 😞

Welcome

Looks like a bmw to me?

So becuase my car is a limited run the vin is a bit all over (gearbox came back as a 2008 wrx box lol) But i came across this site and it seems to be pretty bang on, https://legacypic.uk/identification/vinSearch.php picked up mine is an sti limited, which is the first time ive actualy seen it listed correctly

welcome. uk and jdm vin numbers are totaly different in composition, so pretty easy to tell from that. UK has 17 digits, letters and numbers http://www.subaru-svx.net/photopost/data/529/95-UK-SVX_VIN_plate.jpg jdm has 3 letter then numbers http://jdm-expo.com/14113-thickbox_default/subaru-impreza-sti-gdb-for-sale-japan.jpg Vin decoder for UK cars https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/Subaru/VIN_Codes

could be, or could be a wiring issue, only way to find out it to get it looked at im afraid

for a decent hose kit sounds about right.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Multi-Display/69551805/85263VA020.html looks like it may be US only as i cant find it on any UK parts list. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265348224568?epid=15022749410&hash=item3dc7fc9638:g:6-wAAOSwLyRhXnWo need to check fit though as it says 2018 onwards.

any pics of what it looks like?

welcome

yeah prices are daft and only getting dafter, you are unlikley to find a decent one with only 4 figures in its price, sti 15-20k now

free wiper blades are prob worth, assuming they fit them right,,,,,,,,, hahahaha

Doubt they would know what to look for anyway, my experiences with the dealer network hasn't been great as far as mechanical stuff goes

Changing arb's affects the balance of the car, in stock form they are pretty understeery, stiffen the rear arm and you dial some of that out so def worth doing that, but your only transferring the flex to the drop links, so I'd advise uprating the drop links. It's then a case of how far or more to the point how much do you want to spend? Anti lift kit, arbs, drop links, other bushes, coilovets etc is pretty much the full shebang. Personally I don't rate bc coilovers at all, seen to many people moaning about them. Last car I went in with them they were pretty harsh ride, however different spring rates will affect that and products do decline over time so the newest ones could be a much better setup. Whiteline stuff is good, but I find it starts looking a bit tatty pretty quickly, although it doesn't affect how they perform and other than the looks isn't anything to worry about. I've got tein flex z coilovers, perrin rear roll bar, perrin drop links and have to say I've been mega impressed with the setup. It's firm but not crashy or too harsh a ride for normal road use.

are you talking about trubo lag? aka a delay between putting your foot down and it accelerating? oil light is pretty much engine shagged light, if the pressure is low enough to turn it on, your engines already done for. that said, if it does go out then it is building pressure. it is 100% worth getting it checked out to see if the oil pump is on the way out. 2.5's are known for being some what unreliable in standard form, so milage is a tad irrelevant im afraid. Clutch wise if its still on the origional clutch then 70k isn;t bad, mine was pretty much dead at about 62k miles on the car, although i dont know if it was the origional one or not. Is there much travel between initial bite and full engagement?

welcome

according to subaru you can change oil at 20k miles and the 2.5 is perfectly fine and doesnt have any faults,,,,

had a sports cat system on mine, was actualy the backbox that failed before the centre sports cat. i'd guess it as on the car for about 8 years or so.