Tidgy

not always, but its a reasonable guide. it can refer to different specification, eg ball bearing core or journal bearing core. eg VF30 is journal bearing, so slower spool VF34, roller bearing using VF30 housings, so gives best spool and top, however it is typicly the most expensive of them (and tbh an sc36 will outperform it in both spool and top end and as above be cheaper) VF35, Journal bearing, uses a smaller housing to improve spool, but reduces top end, VF turbo's are gettng a tad long in the tooth nowadays as technology has moved on and alot of tuners have developed thier own turbos. SC series are scoobyclinic spec made by blouch in the US for example.

Tbh it wont have much value unfortunatly, alot of the valuable parts you find on wrx's and sti's wernt on the non turbo versions :(. could try a few local specialists to see if they are interested in having it for parts.

Sounds good, but beware of charges for other parts damaged during the works.

TBH i'm not a fan of the UK300's, there a typical subaru uk special edition where they change some cosmetics and add a badge. However its gonna be yoru car so its totaly what you want. Have you got a budget in mind?

Tbh before you spend any more money i would have it sniff tested to check to see if the HG has gone or not. If its overheated damage could already be done and your just chasing deads ends. Assuming the sniff test comes back ok i would be tempted to get a proper fitment rad, sounds like the ECP is a generic fitment one, the standard ones arnt mega money (around £100 from somewhere like import car parts, or if your feeling flush a upgraded ally rad will be about £300 ish). After that its a case of going through the system and checking replacing parts. Also just note they can be a ball ache to bleed at times

I would say it depends on budget and if you want to go new or second hand. May be worth looking at resonated decats rather than sports cat systems, sports cats tend to be mega money and a resonated decat wont be too loud (i have a resonated decat on mine). Beware of cheap turbos as they tend to be copys and, well you get a chinese knock off. Cheapest option will be a second hand vf35 from an sti. Will go on and give a nice increase, finding a decent, none cracked, second hand one is getting harder now though. A VF34 is a step up oon the 35, similar spool but tends to give 5% more power than the vf35. Again getting harder to find now as they are less common and pron wont get much change from £1400 ish + fitting https://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=47_218&products_id=1520 Arguably IMO the best upgrade is a SC36 (although you'll get many different opinions on whats 'better'), its rated to 360bhp and spool like a stabbbed rat http://shop.scoobyclinic.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_93&product_id=127 Alot of tuners have their own prefered brand of turbos, but my advice would be to go to your prefered tuner and tell them you want a sportygs catted system, turbo upgrade and a map and then let them do it all, saves any risk of argument if something goes wrong. They also typicly do 'performance packages' that will be all the bits you need inc fitting so saves the hassel of collecting the different bits.

Tbh i think your gonna struggle to find a decent full system for under £500. Avoid ones that have flexi couplings in them. Cat back should be achieveable though. WRX has a cat in the downpipe. You can get direct fitment cat back systems, https://www.haywardandscott.com/subaru/impreza-turbo-06-07.html https://scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=24_156 Bear in mind you may well need to have it mapped to cope with the decat, although if you keep the downpipe cat you may get away with it, would need to go on a RR to check AFR's to be sure.

if its still running the standard headers with the system then it will be a stock fitment, so any that are stock fitment will go on. as far as brands its very country dependant so not sure what there is over there.

New discs and pads ordered, some godspeed j hook floating discs and CL rc5+ pads. will be a couple of weeks tilll i can get it in to have them fitted though 😞

Cool, you'll get lots of different opinions on mods. Whiteline stuff is good, but it looks (only visualy) tatty pretty quickly

Looks in very good nick tbh

Prob wanna put up some more info, milage, what engine it is etc

Fingers crossed you caught it before there was too much damage, although you wont find out untill its stripped back of course 😞

100% will need a map for the new turbo, will prob need a 3 port boost sol as well to allow porper boost control. be wary of whaty cob say about mapping, they have a very different way of tuning in the US

its borderlione if you'll get away with it at that power, if you give it some mechanical sympathy you will possibly be ok. There 3 options you have for upgrade route, 1. hawk 5 speed box, these are alot storng than the older 5 speed box's, i ran 420 ftlb for 14k miles with no issues. 2. Aftermarket gear kit, not mega cheap 3. 6 speed setup, again not cheap, but will be fine for what ever power you want to go. bear in mind you'll need all the running gear bits to suit, rear diff, drive shafts, hubs etc etc Tbh i'd be looking at the 6 speed route myself. I have had all 3 options over the years and while 1 and 2 are strong, the longer ratios on the 6 speed suited the extra power better.

Syvecs has a plug in bluetooth module. Had one for my type R, the software was a but clunky as it was first iteration of it, i understand its much improved now but not had any experiance of it for 5 years or so. It's not cheap either haha might have to give the OBD thing a go, any recomendations?

Noice, keep thinking when i go syvecs i might do something similar.

the 2.5 is well known for shatting itself. ring lands and headgaskets are the common ones but bearinf failure isnt that uncommon either. Could it be something they did? possibly, but at 70k miles i expect it was on the way out and just conicidence. Either way, unless you have some prrof of them doing the damage, like vid of them thrashing the hell out of it, you wont get anywhere anyway, subaru never accepted there was a problem witht he 2.5, depsite it being well documented. To find out the damage will need to be stripped and assessed, i expect it will be found to be wear and tear on the bearings. What you do next is pretty much up to you, if you plan on keeping the car then i'd see about getting the engine rebuilt properly and forged maybe even closed decked depending on budget. If you plan to get rid then you can either sell it as a rolling shell, or source a second hand engine. really depends on your plans and budget.

Not heard of them before tbh i have alot of perrin stuff on my car.

did you buy it private sale? or from a dealer?

wasn't it diagnoised before mapping? racedungnamix map it by any chance?

Really depends on the setup and parts used. For example race engines tend to have higher clearances as they tend to have higher peak temps even with cooling mods like oil cooler etc so your unlikley to get it hot enough, however a forged road engine shouldnt be slappy once warmed up unless the clearances are too high. do you know anything about the engine build?

Sounds like its hitting boost/fuel cut. is it decatted and mapped for it? best bet get it on a dyno and see whats what, could be as simple as a boost leak somewhere.

have a google for subaru specialists near you.

perrin is top notch kit, but you pay for it.