Tidgy

Depend whats wrong with it and what it needs doing as far as if it's salvagable, If it's been sat for 3 years there is going to be some cost to get it ruinning, will need a full service, all fluids, all belts, possibly new tyres all round and possibly many other rubber seals. Fuel will be absolute rat pish so will need draining and refilling with decent fuel. Your right on the doorstep of scoobyclinic being at chesterfield so wouldn't be a huge cost involed with getting it up to them to have a look and see what needs doing. As far as insurance goes, just bang your details into the price comparison sites and see what it comes back with. Most of the performacne insurance specialists wont deal with you till your over 25, so its gonna be a bit pot luck. Most fo the folks on here are alot older so wont really give you any idea of what the true cost will be. Honestly the whole driving experiance thing is something to seriously consider. Most people talk about crashing them from experiance, and yep i'm guilty as charged, threw one over a hedge upside down at 50mph, not becasue i couldn't control it, but becuase i had a choice between hitting someone crossing the road right in front of me or going up the bank. I chose the bank and was luck enough to walk away, the car not so lucky. Thats what you don't learn about until you get the miles of driving under your belt. That said, take it stead and realise you need to treat it with respect and you should be ok. Also might be worth seeing about getting some performance car driver training, can make a big difference. Bear in mind folks are saying it as they don't want to see you hurt.

moved for you 🙂

Stock pistons are known to drop ringlands very frequently, if they do after you have had it built then your back to full rebuild teritory again and could wipe out the block and heads. Bear in mind they arn't forged, they are heat treated. Rods really depends on what you plan to do, 400 is about the limit on the standard rods, so makes sense to replace them while its apart. Crank shaft is a some need it, some don't, but its a cse of assessing when its stripped. Other thing to consider is what your planning to do tuning wise, closed decking the block will make it alot stronger if you planing to go up the power band, but its not a must do if your not. its circa £500 on top so up to you as far as if you do it. mine is and you can have a nosey here at the build for a few ideas 🙂

It's nothing to do with the pads, it's underservo'd, basicly there isnt as much additional pressure from the braking system so you have to put more force yourself. First thing to bear in mind is alot of brake disks are all the same and just stamped with a different brand What you go for really depends on budget, decent set of mintex disks and ferodo ds2500 pads is a good combo, but tbh personaly i'd be looking at upgrding the calipers to some AP's (brembo's off an sti are an option, but they wont fit under wrx wheels so doesn't work out that much cheaper than the AP's), i found the WRX brakes to be pretty inadequate as a setup even with uprated pads and disks

full rebuild isn't only due to milage, i would sugest looking elsewhere if your being advised not to

No updates or mods? are you feeling ok, i'm very worried about you,,,,, lol looking good dude

yeah, i was kinda hoping to get to 500 on the sports cat as im getting old and like it quieter lol Will give a god idea on the gains from 2.5 sports cats to full 3inch decat, although will have a resinator in it.

So warranty was a no go, which wasn't surprising and wasn't holding up that much hope as car has been through several hands and exhaust was 8 years old. A replacement like for like 3 inch inlet, 3.5 Inch tip was order and I went up today to get it fitted. And thats when plan A went pear shaped. As it was never measured and i ordered it over the phone i didnt check the size and it's actualy a 2.5 inch system on it. Not sure why RA motorsport put a 2.5 inch in it, but unfortunately ment couldn't be fitted. The inside of the existing one is a mess of twisted mesh and fibreglass that won't come out. Ended up with a quandary of what to do. Options where try to bodge the backbox on, reorder a 2.5 inch or just go balls deep and get a full inch downpipe and center section then remap to suit. So yes, as I'm sure most suspect, I went with the balls deep lol I've currently got a stock sti backbox on it so Its drivable. 3 inch decat downpipe, 3 inch resonated center have been ordered, the 3 inch backbox is already there and then can have the map tweaked to suit. Looks to be 1 to 2 week then around as they don't Keep them on the shelf and are made to order. Shall then get the car back up to clinic for fitting and map tweak Should get a few more horses put of the car due to removing the restriction of the cats so shall post up the graph when i get it.

Scoobyclinic up at Chesterfield built mine

As savage says not that much around your area, worth traveling for a decent build though.

tad harsh tbh

It';s gonna be the lower end of the price scale as market for early casrs is now more looking for origional cars, not heavily moded.

For a 2.5 rebuild you want to be doing the whole thing, inc bottom end. I see some really bad advice about not needing to do it etc etc, but bearing damamage is very commonly found once stripped and if not done you'll just be back to square one when they fail. (Mate had to take a very well known tuner to court over this after they gave him bad advice not to do it, he won and they paid for rebuild at a different tuner) £3400 labour could be (just guessing at per hour cost) £75 X45hrs, to rebuild properly including heads, bottom end etc is perhaps a tad high, but not huge amounts. If somewhere is building it 10 hours i would be worried they are rushing it, not checking tollerances etc. Any company that says they can price it before its stripped is telling you porkies, unless they charge you new for everything, Yes they an give you a rough guess, but untill the stripped parts are assessed there is no way to tell how bad the damage is, worst case the whole thing could be junk. The engine in my type R was total junk except the headcastings and the pistons, rest inc the block were toast. The next thing is how far your gonna go with the build as far as spec goes. What are yoru future plans? First off there is no point in reusing the standard pistons as they are crap and have a nasty habbit of breaking the ring lands off. So minimum spec i'd recomend, Forged pistons Decent Rods ARP headstuds ACL bearings Decent headgaskets After that its then a case of how far you want to go? Closed decking, uprated valve's and springs, cams etc etc are all options and just budget dependant. You need to make sure the over all spec is matched properly, spec things incorrectly and they just dont work and the result will be a car that drives crap, could be laggy, doesnt make power etc etc The final note i would say, is get all the work done by the same place, rebuild, sourcing of the machine work, mapping etc. Any problems you just go back to them and it's their problem. If you get it built by one place, mapped by another then you can end up in a situation where if something goes wrong they blame each other and you end up paying for a second rebuild.

we tried to keep my wifes bug on the road and dropped more money than i care to total up into repairs, but it was just one thing after another 😞 finaly bought the bullet and got her a hawk wrx lol if you are thinking of getting another one then can always looking at buying before you sell your current one and swapping off the parts like wheels you wanna keep.

How far you planning on taking the track car? If your thinking of all the way then cheapest decent shell you can find will be best starting point. Also need to find somewhere with experience to build and spec it. Weekend car id look for a tidy type r

It's a catch 22, highly likley it will come back, also if its at the stage of reducing the rear seatbelt strength then it's going to be very far gone. Although i;d be interested to know how they came up with that, Yes it is a considerable amount of work depending on how far gone they are your talking £500+ as a minimum, then when they remove stuff to find the extent of the damage they may find it's worse than they thought. Also if the sills are that bad i expect the arches will be not far behind them which will be £500+ a side to get them done properly and again will depend on how far they have gone. on a car of that year (unless its a special edition like an impreza type R/RA) then its pretty much terminal as a foregone conclusion when you come to cost vs a replacement im afraid, prob not what you wanted to hear 😞.

No she loved it, her new one doesnt have it though lol

my wife calls hill start 'butt wiggle' pmsl only slightly relevant to the thread but i thought why not lol

Just a note that if you want more raw performance then you want a type r over a P1.

did it run with no cloolant long?

unless they mean widetrack version which has rear arch lips. which basicly means 05 blob on

i thought they left the system after 5 tbh, but try keith micheals insurance, need to speak to gary moulson there, he can be a pain to get hold of as he's always mega busy.

Theres a guy in facebook that seems to have a very good rep and not heard of any horror storys. Not used him personaly though, although need to get the wife a spare so may well be soon, https://www.facebook.com/jdmsubarukeys

Sounds indeed like might be headgasket. Doesnt always burn oil, depends which part of the gaskets gone. I suggest you get it to a specialist and get them to take a look.

haha, so many people come back very quickly 😄 welcome back 😄