Tidgy

If the bearings have failed due to low oil then it must have burnt a hel of alot in that time. Also the bearing failure is just an outcome, not the rot cause of the issue. 1L per 1000 miles is subarus official concern point, but Thats higher than most tuners will accept as being ok. If yours has done 2L in 1000 miles then something is serious wrong.

So got back from clinic, and just about thawed out, duck me it was cold lol Results are in and I'm pretty pleased with it. The boost went up slightly (about 2psi iirc, although forgot to get afr/boost graph so will confim) without any input from the mapper, map was generally the same other then a minor tweak in fueling. It gained 25bhp, 15ftlb and a nice amount of spool. I'll get the bhp/father graph up tomorrow as it doesn't seem to want to take it straight from my phone.

Best bet rip it out and have it mapped properly. No need for them on subaru as the ecu controls the boost.

could you get a video of the noise to see if we can hear it?

Knock typicly starts arounf 2k and can be a slight if its early stages. Compression test wont show you if the bearings are gone, I'd get it to a decent specialist and see what they say.

Is it a deep in the engine type knock? Or more tinny lighter type thing?

Glad you got some sort of outcome from it, but sucks you had to go that far.

welcome

yeah, was looking at going for a cobra 3 inch system but then was advised against it, h & S worked out about £50 more overall so its not a big cost increase

apparently the quality of cobra stuff has dropped right off recently as they have started mass producing it rather than hand made

you can get a full hayward and scott sports cat system for alot less than that, which is prob your best option

Depend whats wrong with it and what it needs doing as far as if it's salvagable, If it's been sat for 3 years there is going to be some cost to get it ruinning, will need a full service, all fluids, all belts, possibly new tyres all round and possibly many other rubber seals. Fuel will be absolute rat pish so will need draining and refilling with decent fuel. Your right on the doorstep of scoobyclinic being at chesterfield so wouldn't be a huge cost involed with getting it up to them to have a look and see what needs doing. As far as insurance goes, just bang your details into the price comparison sites and see what it comes back with. Most of the performacne insurance specialists wont deal with you till your over 25, so its gonna be a bit pot luck. Most fo the folks on here are alot older so wont really give you any idea of what the true cost will be. Honestly the whole driving experiance thing is something to seriously consider. Most people talk about crashing them from experiance, and yep i'm guilty as charged, threw one over a hedge upside down at 50mph, not becasue i couldn't control it, but becuase i had a choice between hitting someone crossing the road right in front of me or going up the bank. I chose the bank and was luck enough to walk away, the car not so lucky. Thats what you don't learn about until you get the miles of driving under your belt. That said, take it stead and realise you need to treat it with respect and you should be ok. Also might be worth seeing about getting some performance car driver training, can make a big difference. Bear in mind folks are saying it as they don't want to see you hurt.

moved for you 🙂

Stock pistons are known to drop ringlands very frequently, if they do after you have had it built then your back to full rebuild teritory again and could wipe out the block and heads. Bear in mind they arn't forged, they are heat treated. Rods really depends on what you plan to do, 400 is about the limit on the standard rods, so makes sense to replace them while its apart. Crank shaft is a some need it, some don't, but its a cse of assessing when its stripped. Other thing to consider is what your planning to do tuning wise, closed decking the block will make it alot stronger if you planing to go up the power band, but its not a must do if your not. its circa £500 on top so up to you as far as if you do it. mine is and you can have a nosey here at the build for a few ideas 🙂

It's nothing to do with the pads, it's underservo'd, basicly there isnt as much additional pressure from the braking system so you have to put more force yourself. First thing to bear in mind is alot of brake disks are all the same and just stamped with a different brand What you go for really depends on budget, decent set of mintex disks and ferodo ds2500 pads is a good combo, but tbh personaly i'd be looking at upgrding the calipers to some AP's (brembo's off an sti are an option, but they wont fit under wrx wheels so doesn't work out that much cheaper than the AP's), i found the WRX brakes to be pretty inadequate as a setup even with uprated pads and disks

full rebuild isn't only due to milage, i would sugest looking elsewhere if your being advised not to

No updates or mods? are you feeling ok, i'm very worried about you,,,,, lol looking good dude

yeah, i was kinda hoping to get to 500 on the sports cat as im getting old and like it quieter lol Will give a god idea on the gains from 2.5 sports cats to full 3inch decat, although will have a resinator in it.

So warranty was a no go, which wasn't surprising and wasn't holding up that much hope as car has been through several hands and exhaust was 8 years old. A replacement like for like 3 inch inlet, 3.5 Inch tip was order and I went up today to get it fitted. And thats when plan A went pear shaped. As it was never measured and i ordered it over the phone i didnt check the size and it's actualy a 2.5 inch system on it. Not sure why RA motorsport put a 2.5 inch in it, but unfortunately ment couldn't be fitted. The inside of the existing one is a mess of twisted mesh and fibreglass that won't come out. Ended up with a quandary of what to do. Options where try to bodge the backbox on, reorder a 2.5 inch or just go balls deep and get a full inch downpipe and center section then remap to suit. So yes, as I'm sure most suspect, I went with the balls deep lol I've currently got a stock sti backbox on it so Its drivable. 3 inch decat downpipe, 3 inch resonated center have been ordered, the 3 inch backbox is already there and then can have the map tweaked to suit. Looks to be 1 to 2 week then around as they don't Keep them on the shelf and are made to order. Shall then get the car back up to clinic for fitting and map tweak Should get a few more horses put of the car due to removing the restriction of the cats so shall post up the graph when i get it.

Scoobyclinic up at Chesterfield built mine

As savage says not that much around your area, worth traveling for a decent build though.

tad harsh tbh

It';s gonna be the lower end of the price scale as market for early casrs is now more looking for origional cars, not heavily moded.

For a 2.5 rebuild you want to be doing the whole thing, inc bottom end. I see some really bad advice about not needing to do it etc etc, but bearing damamage is very commonly found once stripped and if not done you'll just be back to square one when they fail. (Mate had to take a very well known tuner to court over this after they gave him bad advice not to do it, he won and they paid for rebuild at a different tuner) £3400 labour could be (just guessing at per hour cost) £75 X45hrs, to rebuild properly including heads, bottom end etc is perhaps a tad high, but not huge amounts. If somewhere is building it 10 hours i would be worried they are rushing it, not checking tollerances etc. Any company that says they can price it before its stripped is telling you porkies, unless they charge you new for everything, Yes they an give you a rough guess, but untill the stripped parts are assessed there is no way to tell how bad the damage is, worst case the whole thing could be junk. The engine in my type R was total junk except the headcastings and the pistons, rest inc the block were toast. The next thing is how far your gonna go with the build as far as spec goes. What are yoru future plans? First off there is no point in reusing the standard pistons as they are crap and have a nasty habbit of breaking the ring lands off. So minimum spec i'd recomend, Forged pistons Decent Rods ARP headstuds ACL bearings Decent headgaskets After that its then a case of how far you want to go? Closed decking, uprated valve's and springs, cams etc etc are all options and just budget dependant. You need to make sure the over all spec is matched properly, spec things incorrectly and they just dont work and the result will be a car that drives crap, could be laggy, doesnt make power etc etc The final note i would say, is get all the work done by the same place, rebuild, sourcing of the machine work, mapping etc. Any problems you just go back to them and it's their problem. If you get it built by one place, mapped by another then you can end up in a situation where if something goes wrong they blame each other and you end up paying for a second rebuild.

we tried to keep my wifes bug on the road and dropped more money than i care to total up into repairs, but it was just one thing after another 😞 finaly bought the bullet and got her a hawk wrx lol if you are thinking of getting another one then can always looking at buying before you sell your current one and swapping off the parts like wheels you wanna keep.