Tidgy

if you are pushing it that hard your going to have to remove the stock safety features becuase the levels are above the visible limits, which you dont want to be doing. iirc the absolute visible limit of even the later ecu's is just under 1.7bar. You want to be below that level with tollerance so you don't overshoot, so in reality your limited to 1.6bar give or take. Bear in mind this is more a general comment regarding swapping to after market when you go up the power level. The boost control in the stock ecu is fine at lower levels of boost even on the early cars, although i agree they are showing their age, but at that point your then back to a case of looking at replacing the whole unit as boost control isn't the only issue. Makes external boost controllers a waste of money and setup time.

tbh £2500 is around where i would guess given your age. Most specialists wont go near you till your 25, Try the price comparison websites. Young + performance car = bend over and take it dry when it comes to insurance.

im on tein flex z so lowered, im not exactly sure what the height is set to tbh. Also need to take into account what the coilovers are as softer setups need more height or they bottom out. Afriad suspension setups isn't a subject im that up on.

So looks like rear wheel bearings might be an issue on these, dads is now 3 years old, but he had to have a rear beaing replaced when it was 18 months old (under warrenty of course as he bought it new), i'll ask him what the milage was and edit the post.

tad late, but decat and map tweak 😄 not posted in this thread for ages hahaha

no external boost control is needed on a subaru. By the time to stock ecu struggles to cope you need to go stand alone ecu anyway. If you need some extra way of controlling the boost then something is wrong or your at stand alone ecu time. Unlike old fords and stuff you can't just change the boost levels, fueling needs to be adjusted to suit so you don't fry the engine. Hence why additional boost control is a waste of money.

Red with sports cats, blue with decat and resonated center section

yeah, hoped for a little gain and maybe break 400, although wasnt expecting it too 😄

i just got escape from tarkov, man that game is brutal, dont think i have sworn at a game so much ever lol

If the bearings have failed due to low oil then it must have burnt a hel of alot in that time. Also the bearing failure is just an outcome, not the rot cause of the issue. 1L per 1000 miles is subarus official concern point, but Thats higher than most tuners will accept as being ok. If yours has done 2L in 1000 miles then something is serious wrong.

So got back from clinic, and just about thawed out, duck me it was cold lol Results are in and I'm pretty pleased with it. The boost went up slightly (about 2psi iirc, although forgot to get afr/boost graph so will confim) without any input from the mapper, map was generally the same other then a minor tweak in fueling. It gained 25bhp, 15ftlb and a nice amount of spool. I'll get the bhp/father graph up tomorrow as it doesn't seem to want to take it straight from my phone.

Best bet rip it out and have it mapped properly. No need for them on subaru as the ecu controls the boost.

could you get a video of the noise to see if we can hear it?

Knock typicly starts arounf 2k and can be a slight if its early stages. Compression test wont show you if the bearings are gone, I'd get it to a decent specialist and see what they say.

Is it a deep in the engine type knock? Or more tinny lighter type thing?

Glad you got some sort of outcome from it, but sucks you had to go that far.

welcome

yeah, was looking at going for a cobra 3 inch system but then was advised against it, h & S worked out about £50 more overall so its not a big cost increase

apparently the quality of cobra stuff has dropped right off recently as they have started mass producing it rather than hand made

you can get a full hayward and scott sports cat system for alot less than that, which is prob your best option

Depend whats wrong with it and what it needs doing as far as if it's salvagable, If it's been sat for 3 years there is going to be some cost to get it ruinning, will need a full service, all fluids, all belts, possibly new tyres all round and possibly many other rubber seals. Fuel will be absolute rat pish so will need draining and refilling with decent fuel. Your right on the doorstep of scoobyclinic being at chesterfield so wouldn't be a huge cost involed with getting it up to them to have a look and see what needs doing. As far as insurance goes, just bang your details into the price comparison sites and see what it comes back with. Most of the performacne insurance specialists wont deal with you till your over 25, so its gonna be a bit pot luck. Most fo the folks on here are alot older so wont really give you any idea of what the true cost will be. Honestly the whole driving experiance thing is something to seriously consider. Most people talk about crashing them from experiance, and yep i'm guilty as charged, threw one over a hedge upside down at 50mph, not becasue i couldn't control it, but becuase i had a choice between hitting someone crossing the road right in front of me or going up the bank. I chose the bank and was luck enough to walk away, the car not so lucky. Thats what you don't learn about until you get the miles of driving under your belt. That said, take it stead and realise you need to treat it with respect and you should be ok. Also might be worth seeing about getting some performance car driver training, can make a big difference. Bear in mind folks are saying it as they don't want to see you hurt.

moved for you 🙂

Stock pistons are known to drop ringlands very frequently, if they do after you have had it built then your back to full rebuild teritory again and could wipe out the block and heads. Bear in mind they arn't forged, they are heat treated. Rods really depends on what you plan to do, 400 is about the limit on the standard rods, so makes sense to replace them while its apart. Crank shaft is a some need it, some don't, but its a cse of assessing when its stripped. Other thing to consider is what your planning to do tuning wise, closed decking the block will make it alot stronger if you planing to go up the power band, but its not a must do if your not. its circa £500 on top so up to you as far as if you do it. mine is and you can have a nosey here at the build for a few ideas 🙂

It's nothing to do with the pads, it's underservo'd, basicly there isnt as much additional pressure from the braking system so you have to put more force yourself. First thing to bear in mind is alot of brake disks are all the same and just stamped with a different brand What you go for really depends on budget, decent set of mintex disks and ferodo ds2500 pads is a good combo, but tbh personaly i'd be looking at upgrding the calipers to some AP's (brembo's off an sti are an option, but they wont fit under wrx wheels so doesn't work out that much cheaper than the AP's), i found the WRX brakes to be pretty inadequate as a setup even with uprated pads and disks

full rebuild isn't only due to milage, i would sugest looking elsewhere if your being advised not to