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martyc

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Everything posted by martyc

  1. Modern Diesels are notoriously crap for low speed or short journeys because of the dpf issues. They need high speed driving to help keep them clear. It's not really subarus fault but more a combination of enforced legislation and poor sales guidance. You either need to drive enthusiastically more often or consider a vehicle more suited to your driving style, I.e a petrol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. When the head gasket goes a bottom end refresh is advisable due to the bottom end being put under pressure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Boost is also dependant on load, so you may not get full boost depending on conditions. Or your wastegate could be getting weak maybe? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. The downpipe cat is said to be fine, the others help when cold I'm having the scrubber cat removed soon and I've heard that it should be ok without remapping, I will let you know how I get on and if I get a cel etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Forge have a better rep than baileys on imprezas, however my baileys works fine at the minute. But my missus loves baileys and gets her to do naughty things (not the dump valve manufacturers....) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It is indeed approx 1.75 inch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. The Perrin up pipe for standardish cars is 1.75 inch of i remember correctly. I've got an sti one yet to fit that I can measure when i get a chance if you want? Won't be til this evening tho Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Keep the standard intake, it's meant to be very efficient. I 'upgraded' to a k&n panel but there's arguments for and against 'performance ' panel filters Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. I've got the prosport stepper tee'd into the d/v line. I'm sure it's only been the last couple of days because I consciously drive off boost til the engine has warmed up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hi guys, The last couple of days I've found my turbo spooling at the slightest touch of the throttle, like it's practically impossible to drive off boost?? First I thought it was being heavy footed but even the lightest throttle movements in 2nd or above sends the boost gauge into positive pressure (even if it is only 0.3 bar) and letting the d/v blow off on gear changes. It's not over boosting, max recall on the gauge is 1 bar, but never seen it going above 0.9 under full load. I don't recall it doing this before, and it still seems to pull cleanly and hard when needed, the only thing I can think of is maybe there's a post turbo exhaust leak lowering the back pressure? Anyone have any thoughts or feedback? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Or, could be internal problems, although not likely it's not impossible. I remember a corsa with a bad misfire, turned out a valve broke off a chunk, melted thru the piston and it was still !Removed! running, albeit, terribly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. If it's not spark than a fuel issue? A spark can also break down under load but that doesn't sound like the case. What did the old plugs look like? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. Just go for oem parts, an oil filter won't bag you any power and probably won't perform any better than what Subaru specify. Spark plugs really only need upgrading if the cylinder pressures and temps have changed otherwise again stick to oem or a decent quality plug Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I've been pulled over for littering whilst driving before, although I never did and it was just an excuse because they didn't like what I was driving. Also been pulled for riding a twist and go with no L plates. They didn't expect me to tell them I had a full motorbike license and it was just cheap fun transport Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. The rear of the cone fitting that goes into the adaptor into the block. That means stripping out the alt etc again which in itself isn't hard but just time consuming. And I know if I do that I'll end up taking all the t piece line apart and starting from scratch. If it's already there and oil tight I don't want to mess more than I have to! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Tried the screwdriver wrapped in a tea towel method, but couldn't actually get into the bit I needed to. Will try needle nose see it it works any better! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Minor update: Still not touched it, been keeping an eye on it. Doesn't seem to be any oil spreading etc just a very tiny bit at the top of the fitting which might be where it ran down when I was sorting the other leak. I can't get to the fitting to wipe it away now it's all back together. Taking it on a 40 mile round trip tomorrow will check after that as if it's leaking the oil should be hot and thin enough to be more obvious if there really is something leaking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Coil pack? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Done a few bits of splat (not sure I could call it welding) on cars, a static caravan chassis and just random bits and bobs. Really enjoyed it, would love to learn to weld properly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I done that at first! I thought 4-5wraps would be enough-I'll have to go all out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I always have tools in the boot, I'm a maintenance manager ;-) that's how I fitted my gauge pod and gauges at work :-D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I'll have to give it a go next time I have time- next day off not til next thurs now but might be able to do it one evening wifey and child permitting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. It means taking the alt etc all out again, not hard in itself but a pain to keep taking out to tweak every time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. It's the t piece end that was leaking. I seem to have solved that only to find a tiny welling of oil at the previously dry other end joints. I might just take it into a friggin garage at this rate Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Halfords have also set fire to cars in the past installing head units.... Try a local audio specialist, it's amazing what they can do on their prices and they often have a wealth of knowledge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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