Paul_JJ

Found another video - good quality this time, it was good to see how original rims looked like in a brand new state -)

It's the steering rack then.... if the rack goes bad it ruins the pump if the pump goes bad, it ruins the rack -)))

The only mechanic in the UK I would recommend is TIM. Simply the best mechanic I ever experienced. You can trust this, he also doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The only downside is that you'll have to wait for a month or so to get to him. https://www.facebook.com/tbdevelopments/ He is a Toyota specialist, however I'm sure he could advise in regards to Subaru as well.

Oh right. So which part number did you use? Do you have a manual of how to replace that O-ring?

Hey! I would just replace the pump to be honest! It might be the steering rack issue though. Also some people say that it might be related to the gearbox (only AUTO gearboxes affected as far as I know). I currently have the same issue.

Well, join the club. I've got the same issue with the interior lights, cleaned/replaced the fuse a few times already. I feel like it's either wiring or relay. Electrics can cost a fortune to pinpoint a problem unfortunately, like in my case I have electrical issue with the gearbox, but it's cheaper for me to replace the whole gearbox rather than find which wire/sensor is faulty... My rear defrost works just fine, however I also have rear side defrosters, which I believe activated by a separate button, when I press that button I instantly get 2 volt drop in the system... and the left side (the one where antenna is is not working anyway). Good job I don't use them at all...

Just wanted to add that it depends on the OIL and the outside temperature. If it's around 0 C then I would wait for at least 5 min before driving the car, and keep under 3K rpm when driving the first 2-3 miles after that. With your oil it's a good idea to wait for 10 min, as 10W is pretty thick oil, I would rather use 5W or 0W for colder weather and you will have a better engine starts too. 5W-30 is the best oil in my opinion for the daily driver, especially with a lot of short trips and many cold starts.

What was the initial issue with the car not starting? Did it crank the engine at all? Was it that it started for a second and cut off then? Or was it completely dead? I had a faulty fuel pump it did start for a second only then it would just crank... Replaced that but don't forget that the fuel filter should be replaced as well. have you tested the fuel pressure? My bet it's either fuel related or alarm related. Also I've read some faulty maf sensors might result to the same issue, however you said you don't use maf on your ecu, have you checked your MAP sensor then? And last but not least - replace the starter motor may be???

Relay may be? But they actual heaters do burn out sometimes, did you turn off on it's on after some time or didn't? To be honest with Subaru the electronics is the weakest point, I have issues myself and the alternators go quick and underpowered in the first place... Toyota was miles more reliable in this way.

I don't think that was only for Canadian Market since the same wheels present on the JDM subaru advert -)))))))) so these are the original wheels!

Does anyone know the camber bols (or standard bolts) part number for the front suspension? I believe there are 2 bolts at the bottom holding the actual shock absorber? Does that mean that I have to buy 4 bolts? I plan to replace my suspension and feel like the original bolts are rusted and not sure if they're going to be ok, so decided to buy the new ones beforehand. However I don't know the part number. I know that it's the same for Classic Impreza and Foresters. Are these the front bolts for the suspension? http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414 Having a JDM car it's difficult to find the parts -)

No doubt they're good tyres, for the price you pay they must be the best -) You could get possibly 2 tyres of Toyo and just a single Michelin for the same price.

If magnet REALLY is a big improvement for you, why don't you brake an old speaker, get a magnet from there and stick it to your oil filter? Every oil filter is made of metal and a massive magnet next to it will make the whole filter magnetic as well. Alternatively you can disassemble a faulty hard drive - they have mega strong magnets inside and old automatic gearboxes if you drop a pan there will be a few small magnets as well -)

Feel free to rep me for finding this thread -) http://www.spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?27947-Oil-Filter-Exposed

I wouldn't recommend K&N oil filters - !Removed!! Usually OEM must be the BEST ones! Some German manufacturers can make quality filters as well. But overall we need to collect some cash, buy all the different filters - cut them and see what's inside only then we can decide which one is the best to buy.

Done it this weekend. On my own! Not that hard to do but quite complicated to get to it, you need 0.5Volt from the middle pin (+) and the 2nd probe goes to the Negative Car terminal. I can write a manual with pics if needed. As soon as I started the engine I could hear the difference, it looks like it does affect a lot of things in the car. I actually put 0.53 volts, but it jumps quite a lot + when you tighten the screws it moves as well, so takes time to figure out but anything up to 0.55V is good and I would rather put it a bit more as this gives me a better throttle response. The whole driving experience is different now, also I've done just a few miles, so can't comment much, but you can see the difference straight away. The bad news though that it hasn't sorted my Gearbox error and it looks like it's not related to any of the sensors under the engine bay, the only sensor I haven't replaced is the map sensor I do have a spare used one though, so can try that one at some point.

My SF5 Forester is 100 kg lighter -) as of the 5.3s must be very good gearbox then. Mine is an auto so manual would've been lighter. Impressive forester though!

What's the weight of the car and how many BHP? Yes it's like WRX, but it's heavier!

ok will do for sure! I've done a massive research on it, ideally the direct access to ECU is needed in order to measure the voltage (this checking for damaged cables as well). But the easy way is to tap directly to the wiring near the TPS connector. The middle pin must be the ground. We'll see on the weekend though -)

I found that middle is the ground and any of the side can be used, engine has to be turned off. Will try to do it on the weekend!

I have 3 pins, the part number is "SERA483-05"

Well I found that it has to be 0.5 volt with the throttle closed, however I'm not sure which pins shall I connect to - I have 3 pins and some states that it's left and middle some state that 1 st and 3rd...

Hi all, I recently replaced my TPS (which is Hitachi, but manufactured by Nissan...) and I'm not sure how to adjust it properly, I put the bolts to the same position as they were on the old one but the car started to accelerate much worse... Also in regards to the throttle valve can that be adjusted as well??? Thx. Paul

NIce car! Welcome! What's the 0-60 on these models?