stuartie

The new timing belt on now what a wee ar*e that was glad i never had to do it while it was still in place mind not many trucks going about with timing belts on so can count on one hand how many timing belts i've done and the last one i done was about 10years ago Just the covers and pulley to go on and spark plugs to fit then hopefully i can find out how to wire in these newage coilpacks once the arrive oh aye and heatwrap the rest of the headers and up-pipe coz a never bought enough to do them all 👍👍

Sorry matey i never managed to get pics of the injector wiring as got called out on a breakdown and never got back to the workshop, will definitely get them tomorrow 👍

Got the new up-pipe on to the headers and them half heatwrapped 👍 then had to go out on a breakdown 😡

Ooo shiney bits pity you can't see them 😉, let the fun begin 👍

Not sure mate as i'm still learning my way around these engines, hopefully someone will be along with the answers though, i do know theres a restrictor pill in the line somewhere, i think near the boost solenoid and if ot falls out it can cause bother so could be that but like i say not really sure bud

Not sure to be honest because mine has the white tags on both sides so haven't payed attention to the wire colours but I'll take some pics of the wire colours and which injector they relate to tomorrow when back at work as thats where the engine is at the moment, thats if you can wait that long 😉👍

I currently have the engine out of my 1992 v1 wrx import and have just had the heads done and i'm putting it all back together as we speak, i take it with the injectors you are meaning the wire colours as on my engine all the injector plugs are grey however on the looms going to each injector the ones that go to the front injectors have a little white tag round them as you can see in the pic As for no boost i would check all vac lines and boost pipes just incase there's something loose or leaking 👍

Thats the new clutch fitted and the new timing belt tensioner on, i also managed to repair the crankcase breather F shaped coupling ( thats the best way of trying to explain it haha ), reattached the fuel pipes to the fuel rail after fitting the yellow injectors, thats it for tonight should get the timing belt on tomorrow and possibly heatwrap the headers before i get them back on, i also bought some newage coilpacks with pigtails last night off the bay so waiting for them to come 👍

Looks like some kind of end cap for a part of the wiring that doesn't get used or as ernieb has said a protector for the new loom

Yeah this is the first time i've fitted one of these engines so thanks for the tip about cable tying the clutch fork up out the way 👍 and i know about the coolant as i'v already gave it a flush and refill before so i know how much of a pita it can be to bleed, i have a new exedy clutch to go on and i have an alignment tool kicking about in my toolbox somewhere so I'll be fine there aswell and I'll leave the crank sensor unplugged for the first crank over, thanks for the advice bud 👍👍

Yeah mines is coming along ok mate would have liked to have been a bit further along with it if i'm honest but as we know life can get in the way of things 😒, i should have it all ready to put back in through the week as long as i can get a couple of hours every night after work to get the build finished, i won't get it in next weekend though as have the kids so won't get a spare moment but the week/weekend after it will be in as i won't be letting anything get in the way of that 😁👍

Looking good bud 👍, bet you can't wait for the postie to come with all the goodies and begin the rebuild

Got the rocker covers and inlet manifold back on today its finally starting to look like an engine again however as i was putting everything back together i noticed i've broken the little plastic thingy that the crankcase breather pipes go on to just at the back of the engine near where the turbo is so had to take that off and hopefully i can glue it back together with this resin stuff we have in the workshop but thats for monday night after work 👍

Thanks buddy 👍and hope you had a nice birthday 😉, yes i have been following you're thread on the current build will be good to see it all going back together, i should have mine mostly back in one piece on Saturday as long as the weather this far north stays fairly warm and i don't have to go out fixing sh*tty gritters, i also feel you're pain mate i had a week off last week and had the man flu i'm still recovering from it now i've been ok all winter out in all weathers and the week i'm off i'm screwed fecking sods law

I can't remember off the top of my head how much it will cost i think its around £300-£400 but if you check out his website i'm sure its on there, he usually has around a 4 week waiting list and its best to email him thats the fastest way to get a reply from him 👍

Welcome to the club, not sure how far you would be willing to travel but andy forrest is just over the border from you at port seaton near North Berwick and he really knows his stuff when it comes to the scoobs 👍

Got the cams back on today after work Top tip take loads of pics so you get the cams back in the same position as when they came off 👍

I wouldn't worry as i'm pretty sure the new laws only affect new cars registered from this year onwards so the likes of you're car which is 2010 and a euro5 engine ( i think ) will still have to meet the standards set for those engines back in 2010 👍

Welcome to the club 👍

Great write up so far buddy those heads look exellent you'r engineer has made a really nice job of them, when is the rebuild starting? 👍. I've just started to rebuild my v1 engine so should hopefully be back together and back in soon then a quick mot and off to see mr forrest for a map 😁👍

Agreed i think most folks use either 10w 40 or 10w 50 in the engines not sure about the newer engines but the older ej20 use's semi synthetic

Got the heads back on today but thats all as the wife has a list of stuff for me to do while the weather is decent And if anyone is interested i have the torque settings for the heads, 1- tightening order starting in the middle 3 1 6 5 2 4 2- tighten all to 29NM 3-tighten all to 69NM 4- back off 180 degrees 5- back off another 180 degrees 6- tighten all to 29NM 7- tighten all 80-90 degrees 8- tighten all 40-45 degrees 9- tighten bolts 1and2 40-45 degrees DO NOT EXCEED 90 degrees Camshaft journals 8mm bolts 18ft/lbs Flywheel bolts 55ft/lbs Crankshaft pulley 101ft/lbs Camshaft pulleys 61ft/lbs Hope this comes in useful to someone in the future 👍

Got the heads back eventually after all that snow Also a big box of goodies from import car parts ( big thanks to luke for being really helpful and sorting me out ) so the rebuild will start this weekend before i start my well earned week off 👍

Heads are getting there should hopefully get them back this weekend, the place thats doing them only does the cash jobs on a sarurday as they got lots of engine rebuilds through out the week, can't really complain getting them done for a great price Looking good 😁👍

Not really clued up on the blobeye bit on the classics it is indeed the a/c rad, however you're ment to get a garage to safely empty the gas out of the system before you replace it as its illegal to just let the gas into the atmosphere and it leaves a green dye or whatever colour they put in the refrigerant gas all over the place 👍