Piggysniffer Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Romraider is fine mate, I use it for logging mostly, but you can also add revs and take away timing with it ect, I've not got it set up to flash the ecu or anything like that, that's a whole different thing For logging you just need a vag com cable and the software from the romraider site and you can plug in your lappy and see exactly what the engines doing, you really will wonder how you got along without it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 Did download it have got a lead aswell was asking me for a file for the car. Will have another bash later. Just got breakfast in car. Oil temp 70c oil pressure lowest at idle 1bar-1.2bar around 5-6 driving at low revs. Are scoobys jerky/hessant when cold ? Seems better after the blast last nite Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobyghost Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Mines not hesitant when cold but it's not uncommon to have a bit of judder or reluctance. Always warm up and cool down anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Mines a hawk too and it's mildly jerky when cold (before and after mapping)so I just keep it out of boost for a few minutes, that's mostly if I just start it and drive pretty much straight off, not so bad if warmed up a bit before drive, sounds like you need to load ecu defs into the logger, I'm shi te with computing but I managed it after much reading 🙂👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 I've seen a few at a whisker under a bar when idle low. Is good have base idle around 875 to 925 . I would check wiring power source for gauges but expect it low idle and the elec load of fan dips idle further making gauge blink . I like seeing over 1 bar minimum, you may find a 10w50 helps but belt and braces would be a new pump from rcm . we bang a new oil & water pump on any turbo turbo full or partial rebuild just as insurance policy and slight benefit from better pumps. If you go for a new oil pump at some point get the new oil pickup beefed up as they kill engine in couple minutes when fail at flange . Some minor debris is normal but as your engine didn't have massive failure it should be minimal . another oil change is not a bad thing . Most important is RR run to check knock & fueling, simple issues of air leak can cause lean runing & that kills these engines quite quickly. I would pressure test intake & clean maf etc & check all basics before a RR session & hope they can pinpoint any glitches & perhaps plan a mapping session once you know what direction you going with the car . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted October 6, 2016 Share Posted October 6, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 UPDATEEEE Got oil pump on 11mm one oil pressure now 1.2bar lowest at 100c oil temp. Hessantness has gone. Did find 1 small boost pipe half off have secured it. Timing was a nightmare to do in the bay. Got new oil millers 10w40 fully synthetic. Have booked in to viezu for health check and maybe remap but thinking to leave it now as feels fine. Many thanks for the pics piggysniffer will get the laptop out tomorrow [emoji108]many thanks lads[emoji106] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Happy days !!! 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Result - that is great news!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 11mm rotor improved pump good way go & they cheap really for insurance they give . A health run would be good, rmap can be revisited as plans manifest . Main thing after rebuild is having it running safely and without glitches as don't want be doing things twice ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Updateee changed intake pipe back to standard one and hesitation has goneee. Booked in for rolling road check up on Thursday [emoji1303] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piggysniffer Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 👌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 12 hours ago, Owen369 said: Updateee changed intake pipe back to standard one and hesitation has goneee. Booked in for rolling road check up on Thursday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sometimes standard is not too bad, given the amount of research manufacturers go through too get something that works under a wide variety of driving conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 you got be careful on anything changing intake, turbulent issues created by new piping or blow off valve can mess up air intake readings causing hesitation & potentially damaging engine. Lot of bolt on mods can turn into detuning rather than tuning ... evo's & scoobs have same issues as air measurement is so fine small things can really mess it up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Rolling road check went fine no issues no codes chap said he didn't notice any hesitation. Told me revs fine and to stop worrying. Original pipe is wayyy better I won't be buying any performance parts car is fast enough at the moment haha. Looking at gfb deceptor pro bov the electric in cab adjustable one though [emoji85][emoji23] many thanks again guys for all support [emoji106] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 A good aftermarket one would probably give slight performance gains but like most engine breathing mods , you'd only get the benefit and saftey if it's mapped in. Glad to here it got a clean bill of health on the dyno .. . Now you can spend all you spare time and cash on v power to keep you grinning [emoji39] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 You won't see any gain from BOV at factory boost level, only reason to upgrade technically is needing something technically better/reliable when boost increased or you want a setup where some boost pressure still held in intake rather than bleeding it all off. On maf & maf/map combined systems recirc tends work best, some cars have hesitation on vented or if no noticeable hesitation if you log the ecu & wideband you will see less than ideal data at times. Only time you get gains from aftermarket valves is if standard broken/leaking either to age or fact you boosting way over standard pressures or by bov system designed hold some intake pressure so when thottle open you gain boost faster . Ideal scenario on road cars with no antilag is holding about 3 to 6psi in intake. rally cars & lot of drag cars don't use bov as want absolute best throttle response thus want boost pressure present as soon as throttle opened, they use the antilag to to stop the turbo stalling & noise you here on rally cars is the impeller chopping through stalled compressed air & the wastegate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savage bulldogs Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Dunno if that's aimed at my last comment Mr b ,as I wasn't very clear with my "aftermarket " discription. I ment the bigger bore and better flowing intake pipe would only help if mapped in [emoji6] I do agree about about the recirc ,I'd personally refit 1 if my custom pipework wasn't so frankenstien [emoji23] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr B Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Yeh with mafs I would go recirc as way you map around them does nothing good for throttle response, if using map sensor and after market ecu then no real issue. modern mafs are super sensitive & anything changing turbulance in piping can be an issue. I lost count of amont of evo's & subarus that had gear change hesitation issue (some only at high speed change of say 100mph) due to vent bov, even older cars like nissans on jec maf's could be fussy with pipework shape and needed good valves be trouble free. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen369 Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Hi guys washed her thought id share few pics And not really after any gains just looking for the dump valve sound [emoji85] without affecting the car and can turn the gfb one on and off in the car as driving as won't want the sound all the time ect just wondering if any one had good experience with them on a standard hawk. Many thanks guys subaru lifeeee [emoji1303] Sent from my iphone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambit Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Wish mine looked that clean. All the tractors this time of year coming off the fields and the rain just can't keep it clean but looks real nice mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay762 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Looking good matey!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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