August 8, 201510 yr Author 3" cusco decat downpipe which reduces to 2.5" the cat back has a 2.5" flange but it has 3" pipework all the way like the standard fitment 5zigen system Which I'll put up for sale soon [emoji6]
August 9, 201510 yr Author I'm keeping the 3" to 2.5" cusco downpipe for now but the 5zigen system will mate up to any standard length catted or Decat downpipe with a 2.5 exit flange [emoji6]
August 9, 201510 yr Author I have got a divorced waste gate 100 cpi sports cat in the man cave that has a 2.5" flange
October 2, 201510 yr Author Had a day off today and the weather's nice so thought I'd carry on with treating the surface rust under the scooby before they start chucking salt on the roads . The rear inner arches that I did last year have held up really well so I thought I'd use the same method at the back end . It's only really got a bit of surface rust around the spot welds under the rear 1/4's near the chassis and boot Wells Ground back and rust treatment Didn't take many pics of the rest of the stages but here's the end results after a coat of rust inhibitor based primer , stone chip and silver top coat Hopefully should keep the tin worm at bay for a while longer
October 2, 201510 yr Author Yeah it didn't get undersealed so I thought I'd prep ,stone chip and paint it instead . As you can't see any rust developing under underseal and only find out its rusty when there's a hole .plus the painted top coat is far easier to keep clean with a coat of clear waxoil and regular jet washing [emoji6] The other side isn't as bad so I just did the worst area for now
October 2, 201510 yr My rear arches have quite a bit of rust now. Despite it being done last December before I bought it [emoji20] I just don't have the funds to do it. The wedding has cleared us out. Looks good savage. Any advice?
October 2, 201510 yr Author Unfortunately a lot of body shops will just clean the arches and fill them ,rather than cutting the rust out on the outer and inner arch [emoji19] You've got to either catch it early and kill it off or completely cut out the heavily affected areas and replace them with new metal . Only thing you can do to try and lesson it spreading is keep the inner arch lip clean and protect it with waxoil or I've been looking at some stuff called dytronol (I think) rust treatment . It's on ebay and comes in spray cans that you can spray on existing rust /in chassis box sections to kill rust and protect the metal . But eventually you'll probably need to get the rust cut out and replaced to completely cure it [emoji57]
October 2, 201510 yr It's already at that stage of needing cutting out. Ive always cleaned that lip as I knew that was a cause of rust. Guess the old shop cut the corner. Oh well I'll have it done properly soon. What's the going rate for arch repair?
October 2, 201510 yr Author The chairman of my local forum had his uk turbo arches done ,both rear 1/4's, bonnet and front n rear bumpers painted and it cost him £3k [emoji33] You could probably get just the 1/4's done for about half that but he gets everything done at rcm . But it still scared me off enough to do a clean jdm reshell instead [emoji6]
October 2, 201510 yr The chairman of my local forum had his uk turbo arches done ,both rear 1/4's, bonnet and front n rear bumpers painted and it cost him £3k [emoji33] You could probably get just the 1/4's done for about half that but he gets everything done at rcm . But it still scared me off enough to do a clean jdm reshell instead [emoji6] [emoji15] more than I paid for the car [emoji23] [emoji28] [emoji28]
October 2, 201510 yr To be fair I've seen that thread, it wasn't a 'bit of bodywork' more like a whole rear end restoration, work did look tip top ! Should be able to get a decent independent to do each side for around 300 ish
October 2, 201510 yr Author Your right stants it was a major job with inner and outer rear 1/ 4's cut off and new ones imported from Japan [emoji5] I haven't had any body work done for ages so I could well be far off on price but I assumed that it would need work on the inner arches too
October 2, 201510 yr Author Classics don't have arch liners on the rears but ive got them in the front bud
October 2, 201510 yr Ignore me, it was going to lead to an even stupider question Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
October 2, 201510 yr Author Only time a question is stupid Imo is if you don't ask one and you never know the answer
October 2, 201510 yr Well I was going to ask about not having them as they're pretty shabby on my car, particularly the fronts. Then I remembered I've got the hole for the air filter on one wing and one the pieces of solenoid trickery in the other, so it's not my brightest idea of the day Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
October 2, 201510 yr Author When my brv owned the this one it was running tein coilovers and it's belly was on the ground . The wide rotas occasionally rubbed the front liners so he removed em . The wind noise was terrible and I found loads of crud wedged behind the wings when I was prepping the shell last year (before fitting my mechanicals) Hence why I removed the wings ,cleaned everything up ,waxoiled and fitted the liners from the old UK shell
October 2, 201510 yr I wish I had the patience to be as meticulous as you are! I think I'll just try giving them and the inside a good clean and getting some new clips Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
October 2, 201510 yr Author Normally I only bother cleaning things when I'm trying not to spend money but need somthing "scooby" to do to keep hands busy and out of my pocket [emoji5] Saying that I should have a garret gt28 ,new momo steering wheel and possibly braided fuel lines arriving soon [emoji39]
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