savage bulldogs

Phase 1 and 1.5 injectors are the same so are a direct fit up to v4 (a bit cheaper ) but they're older and can only be ultrasonically cleaned and flow matched. Phase 2 are newer tech and although you need phase adapters to fit them (extra money ) you can get them resized (made bigger cc) as well as cleaned/flow matched Both phases of yellow 440's will max out at 340hp ish (with supporting mods ) on standard fuel pressure

Although running the apexi boost kit add on gives the apexi fc ecu better control over the boost I still wasn't hitting the 1.58 bar target everytime in 3rd or bellow 😞 after a bit of research i decided a avcr boost controller might help as it has a gear judge function which compensates for the variations in manifold and vacumm pressure when the engines under greater loads Electrics isn't my thing to be honest but I'd managed the newage coil pack conversion and I can solder/weld . I had the wiring diagram and ecu pinout list for my version in the apexi avcr box , So i set about labeling up the wires and identifying the ecu pinouts I stripped back a bit of insulation on each wire coming off the pinouts and soldered the wires into the loom . If I didn't have the apexi fc controller I would have left it on standard "scramble " mode (0.5 bar) and let the mapper set it up to make sure the fuelling is correct before changing the boost settings 😉 The hand controller displays the boost target and duty cycle that attowe had set up so I entered the same values into the avcr and took her for a spin Boost kicked in about 400 rpm sooner but I can't get the "gear judge " function to work until I resolve the lack of speed sensor output to the ecu .I think it's something to do with a data monitor that's not fully connected under the dash . I'm getting fed up of not being able to work on the car during the bad weather but it was a whole 9 °in sunny Suffolk today . So I thought I'd offer up the parallel fuel rails and fuel lab pressure regulator Looks like I might have put the alternator in the wrong place 😂

I'm bored so I'm off to the man cave to find somthing scooby to doo [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Is it just sound your loosing or power to the head unit ? Have you tapped into the ignition live while fitting gauges and disturbed a wire while fitting the brace ? Maybe try removing the head unit from the cage plugging it back in and giving the plug a wiggle while it's playing to rule out the plug . Or running a temporary earth to the head unit to see if that resolves it If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

No problem bud 👍 Being a 95 it will be have a phase 1 fuel set up which means ...... Phase 1.5 yellows will drop straight in or phase 2 yellows will need phase adapters (about £40) to make em fit . You won't want to drive it far once the injectors are fitted as the fuelling will be miles out ,so your best off fitting them just before you remap [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Yeah if your running sub 300hp (especially with a small tdo4) you can cause lag when fitting a fmic. As you've got a bigger core and about 4 mtrs of extra pipework to fill back up with boost before it reaches the inlet manifold. When running a bigger turbo and mapped correctly the fmic to tmic lag difference is minimal V3/v4 tmic's are good for 330hp ish before the heatsoak becomes a issue and you need a fmic [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does this discount apply to the nano drive 10 w 60 ? As I need oil ,Mahle filter and fuel filter from you If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Where did you get the passenger side heater matrix hose from Dan ? Cos my current samco one is weeping a bit on a bend [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My engine has only done 15k since I built it 3yrs ago and been in and out of a v3 uk and then back into the v1sti so I've managed to keep it clean by just wiping it over and couldn't advise you what to look out for when steam cleaning. If you're bored or want to get yourself familiar with the early classics have a squint at my sticky build thread, bud [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I went for polar black when I had the rotas refurbished But I've kept the plastics black If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I bought some firestones from my tyres .com they delivered them to the wheel refurbers within 2 days and i didn't pay for fitting . As I got them fitted once the wheels were finished for free as it was included in the refurb price [emoji41] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

The v1sti left the factory as a wrx then was sent to subaru technica international to be hand built into a sti .hence why they have a build number and say wrx on the log book[emoji6] Mine is the same year but a bit earlier ,when they only made 100 per month Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

I haven't tried loads of different tyres and I do tend to scrub Uber soft compound tyres out on the edges before I've really done any miles .So I normally only get middle compound and cost tyres tbh . I've had a look where I got them from and I think they were the sz90's on this page ...... http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=88296795.110.8868&sowigan=So&Breite=215&Quer=45&Felge=17&Speed=W&kategorie=6&Marke=&ranzahl=4&tyre_for=PKW&x_tyre_for=&suchen=Show%20tyres&sort_by=brand&rsmFahrzeugart=PKW&search_tool=standard&weiter=30..... They deliver to your door or tyre fitter of your choice .have a squint at the other ones on there to get a idea of cost and choice but bear in mind I don't know much about tyres [emoji23] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I've got firestone firehawks on the front (which seem ok) And some "ying sing ditch finders" on the back as they were on the car when I got it and still have plenty of tread [emoji16] the back end steps out before the front atm (which I prefer ) but I'll probably stick some new firestones on the front when the ditch finders are done .As I don't seem to be scrubbing the corners off them as much as the previous kuhmo extradas A Whiteline rear arb is a worthwhile cheap handling upgrade to lessen body roll If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

My brv had a set of 18's for a while , they ruined the ride and handling so he switched back to 17's . I've never run anything but 17's so couldn't say what the 16's are like . If you do intend on uprating the brakes to 4 pots on the front at a later date, make sure the 16's you buy will clear them [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Looks like a nice 2 door newage conversion there dog [emoji106] David either take a turbo subaru out for a test drive or strap a super charger to your 6 pot one [emoji48] As for Me I'm starting to get cabin fever being stuck indoors cos it's too cold [emoji30] C'mon spring I wanna fit my parallel fuel rails ,turbo and z32 maf [emoji39] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi and welcome Unfortunately I don't think the early pre 96 esl daughter board has all the same functions as the v3 onwards one but they might have updated the software. Best bet would be to shoot a email to a mapper that deals with esl or Andy Stevens who makes the esl chips to find out a full list of functions for your year As for what else to get prior to having another remap . If your current injectors are the standard grey 380cc ones uprate them to yellow 440's and a decat downpipe should see 320 hp ish I'd also upgrade the front brakes ,if you've still got the standard 2 pots up front before aiming for more ponies [emoji6] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

v1 to v4 heads have the same " inline " stud patterns on the heads. Whereas V5 (my 99) onwards heads are not a direct fit to v1 to v4 inlets It's probably had a v1 my 93/94 long engine fitted to your inlet . which is not a issue I had one in my old 97 UK turbo 2000 . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Does look like a closed deck which are generally only found in 93 to 94 imprezas . It's got a v3 /v4 phase 1.5 inlet set up which is right for the year of the car ,so it's probably got a pre 95 bottom end . So if you need any engine bits look for gc8 v3/v4 compatible parts . Health wise a good service and a dyno run is always a good starting point imo If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Hi n welcome ,Sounds like you've got yourself a bargain bud 👍 Always glad to here a classic being restored rather than broke for bits . A little bit of conflicting info off the previous owner (yr 2000 didn't have closed deck ) it's a version 3 shell which should have phase 1.5 inlet /fuel rail set up but a pic of the bay can confirm that. My classic was just supposed to have a cat back and remap but they do get under your skin I think the passenger rear door and boot lid are the only original bits left lol If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Being self employed I know how hard it is to build up a good rep and keep it . unfortunately most people say your only ever as good as your last job and soon forget all the years of good service once one goes bad . Imo most businesses do tend to loose the personal touch when they expand and get bigger, as you can't always find enough staff that work to the same quality or with the same principles as the owners original staff that got them the rep in the first place . None of this concerns me tbh as my scoob is my hobby ,so I only ever use other people to map and machine things (nobody else touches it) It's not the first time I've seen people miffed with s.c and as a whole I've probably seen more fan boys than haters but when you've got in excess of 10 scoobs in your workshop every day, law of avarages say that a certain amount of customers will be miffed no matter how good your staff are . If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Apexi is a bit "old school" but I like the the fact that you can monitor most things on the fly . I think I'm gonna get a afr gauge soon as although my mappers set the eml to flash if I hit any parameters I'd like a visual gauge to check . Need to find my speed sensor wiring fault first as the avcr hasn't got a working "vehicle speed " input atm so doesn't have the ability to equal the boost targets in each gear like it should [emoji57] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

Had a bit of a play with a x plate evo this evening ,the scoob seemed to love the colder air and was pulling hard under boost (proppa rinsed him) [emoji12] When i Got back and checked the peak holds on the fc and avcr they were all good....... apart from hitting 1.76 bar Think I need to get the "gear judge" function set up on the avcr sooner rather than later [emoji16] If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

I don't know what the codes mean or much about hawks but did you remove the tps from the throttle body? Cos on classics if you remove the tps you have to mark it up first so it goes back in exactly the same position to give the same reading as before If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊

26 to 30 psi is the standard fuel pressure pending on the manifold vacuum /engine load on a classic impreza . you'd have to get a garage to measure the pressure by fitting a inline gauge . If you did have a change in pressure it would probably run a bit rough, as the injectors would be opening for the same duration but not squirting the right amount of fuel . check the pump tank access hatch is sealed correctly and fuel system vapour lines to the charcoal canister are ok . During the colder weather it will automatically be a bit richer(especially on start up ) as the colder air is denser so it needs more fuel on cold start to equal the air fuel ratio also if it's a jdm the standard map will probably be set for a higher octane fuel and the ecu would add more fuel to achieve the maps parameters But it's always worth checking out if you think you've possibly got a leak If it's not broke .....upgrade it 😊