savage bulldogs

Sorry I've only just spotted this post , I'm not sure what you mean by "white mark" it's probably been tip exed by someone previously changing the belt . I line mine up by the notches in the cambelt cover backing plate as the double "cam to cam" timing marks on the pulleys often look a tooth out . Here's a couple of (bad quality) pics let me know if you need anymore and how you get on

That looks standard to me too bud if it ain't broke , upgrade it

Bar stewards [emoji35] Gutted for you stants , at least they didn't get in it and actually manage to steal it [emoji19]

My brv couldn't make it round mine tomorrow

Cheers gaulson and gambit [emoji41] I've tried to keep it looking oe with minimal mods ...... Well on the outside anyways [emoji4] Ghost the arb and links along with elbaich pro springs is probably one of my favourite mods . As it made my scoob have far less body roll and oversteer [emoji106]

No problem bud, keep us updated and hope it's boosting better soon

Yeah v2 with a phase 1 fuel / inlet set up . I had a boost leak on my temporary reverse inlet set up spotted on the dyno quite easily [emoji6]

Yeah being ally the deck type , height and straightness makes a bigger difference on contact area against the underside of the head gasket. My heads and deck face had a minor skim which didn't affect the comp but the deck height and difference in piston bowl did . If it turns out to be bearing I'd definitely recommend the red plastigauge and a new crank if possible. there's quite a few opinions on running in but here's what I did 10 w 40 Mineral oil for 250 mls keeping it off boost and under 3k and engine braking whenever possible. Fresh mineral oil new filter still off boost and engine braking but up to 4.5 k till 500 mls 500 to 1k new oil n filter then gradually increased the off boost rev limit by 1k every 200 miles (700 miles 5.5k ect) With occasional spurts of "actuated" boost (0.5 bar) under 4k but no higher boost for me untill mapping day ( as I was running a bigger turbo and different cams)

missed a bit [emoji5] the z4 ecu is for a early wrx with a tdo5 16g turbo with 260 hp @0.9bar . yeah you'd have to open the ecu case to check for a esl board to check if it's been mapped[emoji6]

A smoke test should show up any boost leaks but I'd check the intake pipe you fitted as you said it started screeching after you fitted it . You'd get more pressure in the vac line system when the engines under greater load in the higher gears .Which in turn would change the boost limits achieved. If it holds 0.5 bar when running "actuated" boost without fuel cut kicking in . I'd guess that it's due to the lack of back pressure (decat) and increased air flow (fmic /air intake). Are causing the boost to peak above the maps standard duty cycles which activates fuel cut . I wouldn't keep driving it on boost if it's cutting ,as it's probably trying to keep the boost in control or maxing out your injectors (If they're grey 380's ) so it doesn't eat itself by running lean . Is there a 4wd dyno near you as a dyno run (£60 ish) would probably be the best option for identifying leaks and over boost . If you can't afford the £550 to get it mapped you could try to get the intake /tmic back to standard and see if the problem persists

Hi n welcome, sorry to hear that it's knocking again bud [emoji19] I've only ever built the 1 boxer lump but here's a few things that might be worth considering for the rebuild . Most reputable builders advise not to regrind the cranks and only suggest re using a crank if it's mint or just needs a light polish . I used plastigauge to double check the big end ,mains and cam caps clearances as it's cheap and only really costs a bit of time did you allow for the skim when calculating the head gasket thickness? Did you check the deck face /height ? Even though the engine i rebuilt had nothing wrong with it ,I made sure the oil cooler (along with everything else ) was chucked through my engineers "hot wash" to make sure everything was über clean and bought a new oil pump/block bolts But I did spend out on uprated internals Apr ,acl,cossie,Mahle, ect... so wanted to protect my investment a bit Let us know what you find and hope it's not too serious

Is the screech a bit like when you blow through a blade of grass like a harmonica ? As it does sound like a boost leak probably from the intake pipe or fmic pipework. I assume you have a boost gauge ,where is the vac line it's getting a reading from plumbed into ? Ideally these need to be fitted directly from the inlet manifold . Or tee'd into a pipe directly from the inlet in order to get a correct reading. The pre v3 (97) map sensor will only work up to 1.2 bar and cause fuel cut after that ,even when mapped and the boost map threshold is increased (so most mappers will suggest that you upgrade the early map sensors) Has it been mapped and if so who and what method ? As classic ecu's do self learn to a certain degree but if you've got a decat turbo back ,fmic and intake mods ,it would probably breathing out of the standard ecus map parameters

You can fit 2ltr heads to a 2.5ltr bottom end as there's quite a few 2.5 classics running 2ltr heads to retain their original inlets/loom . I think the 2ltr heads would probably need a bit of machine work due to the 2.5 ltr having bigger dia pistons (but I'm not 100% sure) You'd also need someone who knows the piston bowl and head chamber sizes to calculate the correct head gasket thickness needed to achieve the 8.5.1 ideal compression ratio . As said above in standard guise the 2.5 is the weaker engine but when "pinned" and forged they do make nice figures [emoji6]

Forgot to update on here that I've changed the steering wheel over and fitted some of the spec c peddles .Also managed to drill ,tap and relocate the actuator bracket so the turbo coldside is now clocked Here's the old momo course wheel,which is up for sale (with a momo boss for direct classic fitment ) And the new momo jet steering wheel and a few of the peddles fitted Clocked coldside aps sr40 turbo Can't wait till spring to get the engine mods fitted and mapped in [emoji4]

Well I'm only running just shy of 350hp atm, so I guess the suspension mods ,4wd and the fact that the classics are fairly light made a hell'va difference in the twisties then [emoji6] So I chucked a sponge at the old girl this morning for doing me proud

Works do last night ,in the ar5e end of nowhere and my mates motor spat it's dummy out [emoji57] So i had to take the scooby and stay sober [emoji19] Had a nice chat with a bloke in a late rs focus (which was mapped ,anti lag ect) he said he liked the look of my old scooby [emoji106] He left shortly after me and proceeded to try n push me above the 30 limit by tailgating me through the villages [emoji57] But once she'd warmed up and we hit the national speed limit on the twisty b road I lost sight of him in the rear view mirror [emoji5] Well until shortly after we hit the next village ,when I was doing 30 again and he thundered past . Dunno what sort hp 58 plate focus rs's run or if they're 4wd but the only complaint I got from my passenger saying his neck hurt today [emoji23]

I've only ever used 3 reputable mappers First mapper was Duncan ,unfortunately my personal experience wasn't too good as a dyno a couple of months later showed it was seriously over fuelling. Which causes bore wash ,piston wear ,bad economy and drowns the power with fuel. I couldn't fault the fact that he gladly re tweeked my map twice for nothing but he was the only one who had to re tweek . However most of the newage scoobs on my local forum have been mapped by him without issue (so I assumed it was just my luck) Mind you both Simon roe (rip ) and my current mapper Clive attowe tend to get right first time and make sure I'm happy before paying them . Simon had got into mapping subarus after being involved in mapping the euro fighter aircraft. [emoji41] Clive attowe has won more awards for mapping than I care to remember and has been mapping from his own dyno for decades [emoji6] Forest ,Carr and Hepburn all seem to have a very good rep although I have no personal experience with them . Right now that can of worms is open why don't we have a little discussion about oil grades as well [emoji16]

It's definitely not a phase 1 v1/v2 and hasn't got a top entry turbo . if the injectors are topfeed and blue it's based on a bugeye If the injectors are side feed and yellow it's based on a v5/v6 phase 2 classic stants knows more about the foz varients tbh I've never owned one

Yeah sorry I assumed you had a tf03 and wanted to fit something bigger as well . there's 3 different phases of classics V1 v2 phase 1 coils on plug V3 v4 phase 1.5 single coil pack on center of the inlet V5 v6 phase 2 single coil pack of set on the inlet And you normally find most ej20 foz engine auxiliaries are based around the same "phase" impreza have you got a pic of the bay ? Sounds like you'd have a v1/v2 phase 1 with a top entry turbo .

Good to see you back but bad news with the gearbox bud Google your ty ##### number off the white sticker on the bell housing to find out your ratio . And find out what "R" number your current diff is (either a R160 or R180 ) . If your lucky enough to find a 6 speed with the same ratio and diff type you'd only need .... 6 sp Gearbox 6sp Cradle /mounts 6 sp Gearknob/linkage And 6 sp prop . As the newage 5 speed box's Clutch , slave,starter,fly, shafts,speed sensor ,front shafts are all compatable with 6 speed box . So if the ratio and diff type are the same you can leave everything original from the prop back and the flywheel forward on the car If you can't find the right 6 speed you'll need the all above plus it's matching diff ,shafts and rear hubs (possibly brakes and discs as well)

I don't know anything about the tf03's dimensions but tdo4 and td05 are pretty much the same on the outside measurements As I did a straight swap (tdo4 to tdo5) and didn't change anything else Same uppipe Downpipe Tmic pipe And turbo inlet pipework If you did fit a different turbo (as stants said) you'd need a remap straight after fitting as the fuelling and boost targets would be set for a smaller turbo What colour are your injectors? Do you know what "phase" impreza your foz is based on ?

I've got a couple of brats you can have for free sam [emoji39] Cos they put a massive dent in the "mod the scooby fund" at this time of year [emoji23]

Been with flux for 2 yrs with my highly modded sti they seem more suited to modded imports. As All my mods are declared/listed ( £6k+ plus total value on a 22yr old scoob ) and my 3rd yr renewal quote came through £19 cheaper than last year [emoji41] So in preparation for the springtime mods I added the new brembos,bigger turbo , a 400hp remap and a £800 increase in value. ... .. Which Cost a extra £ 18 (still £1 cheaper than last year) [emoji4]

If you're using a ecu that will do duel maps and decatting you could ask for a mot emissions friendly map instead [emoji6]

The standard injectors for a 94 would be grey 380's which are good for 280hp ish . So you'd need some yellow 440's which are good for 340 hp . Yellows come in different phases ..... Phase 1 or 1.5 are a direct fit Phase 2's will require "phase adapters " about £40 including new "o"rings. It will need a remap straight after fitting the injectors but you can limp it off boost to the mappers if needs be but don't drive it unless you have to. The ecu is under a kick plate underneath the passenger carpet. if the casing looks standard the only way to tell if it's got a esl mappable daughter board is to unplug it and remove the outer casing. You'll see the daughter board ,like this If not you'll have to replace the current ecu with a mappable option . Your standard turbo will be a tdo5 16g good for 340hp (cams and mods pending) You don't necessarily need to have duel maps just a thorough map . This will include mapping at different throttle positions so half throttle will be set for less fuel while off boost