savage bulldogs

Could be avcs line leaks at the front of the engine , have a look at the banjo bolts that connect the lines to the block . Could also be cam or crank oil seals , remove the plastic cambelt covers and have a look . If you've got oil inside the cambelt covers , try and get it sorted sooner rather than later. As it might affect the belt ,tensioner and idler pulleys and cause the belt to fail or slip a tooth . It might just be oil leaking from elsewhere dripping down the block to make it look like the sump is leaking .

Unfortunately i don't know much about normally aspirated boxer engines but the 2ltr na is the smallest hp engine subaru put in the leggy . So it probably would feel a little underpowered in comparison to the 3ltr or turbo versions. Think most tend to upgrade brakes and suspension in order to make the most of the 4wd and low centre of gravity layout that the boxer lump has . As power upgrades and remaps don't really give you much bang for your buck on a N.A engine 😕 General maintenance is fairly easy with a diy tool kit and a bit of mechanical knowledge, oil change is pretty much the same as any engine .only tips I'd give would be to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before fitting and wait a good 30 mins to check the new oil levels . As it takes a while for the oil to drain into the sump . Spark plugs are a pain the first time , so get a swear tin at the ready but once you've removed the air box and screen wash bottle they're fairly accessible.

No problem bud , its frustrating for the core members too 😉 I've not been as active with answering in the tech section lately as I've had a lot going on . I even joined a f.b page for "Subaru mechanics" but hardly bother posting on there anymore due to the missinformation that's given and amount of trolls . If you've got a query have you tried using the search function? As most topics have been covered on here at some point . I'LL have a look through the tech section now and see if you've put up any posts i can help with

I think most forums tend to get quieter during the summer months ,as everyone's out cleaning or driving their scoobs in the sun . Well unless theres a show or meet happening soon 😊 I'm a member of a few forum's and clubs and have to admit that f.b pages seem to have taken some people away from forum's. Don't get me wrong some of the local f.b pages are busy but i prefer this forum myself , as there's not any trolls and a nice friendly core of active users . Plus discussions and threads seem to get buried on f.b with "what oil" or " do i need a remap if i fit this " threads .

First stage of the running in is done 😊. This involves heat cycling the engine whilst stationary, which is basically starting it up , bringing the revs up n down , waiting for the fans to kick in a few times , shutting it off , waiting till the next day (for it to completely cool down) and then repeating the "cycle " again for 4 days . I left most of the plastics off the engine whilst doing this to make it easier to spot any leaks or issues ,Glad to say it's had none at all . So now the cycling is complete it's time for the first oil and filter change ,to get rid of and metal particles from the honed bores , rings and new bearings ect.. With the fresh running in oil and filter in its ready to hit the road (once I've got some insurance) so i refitted the bay plastics over the weekend . Before i started and current pics

Sorry to hear about the inheritance but Glad to hear the mrs is starting to learn to drive and that it might mean you're gonna hopefully be back in a scoob soon . Good luck with the new job too, bud 👍

Definitely hybrids are different story , as the bigger compressor wheels will push more air efficiently , keeping the charge temps down a bit and making more power . I did watch the vid and soon as the mapper stops the run he says "you can go and pick your pistons up now " which makes me think the customer has made him push the td04 and fmic combo , just for numbers and not drivability or longevity. I agree tidgy , I've only seen power graphs and not the correction factors or whether calibration runs have been done previously. The tdo4 is a good point to point quick spooling turbo when coupled with a tmic. Ideal for 260 to 285hp but why people insist on trying to squeeze more power from them (Just to prove a point) I will never understand tbh .

Well it started off just being a exhaust and remap and we know that's not where I am now 😂🤣 "a few pics" seemed like a good name 5 yrs ago , as I only intended to chuck a "few pics " of the ej20 build , to help familiarise people with the boxer layout 🙄 Hopefully it's helped a few members , with tech and confidence to work on their own scoobs , as that was the reason I started it . Just hope it's not turned into a gallery of my scoob and retained some useful information 🤔 Maybe "a few thousand pics of my project so far" .😂 Or "how to stealth a full car refurb past the mrs bolt by bolt " 🤔 Or something simple like "savage's scooby project" 😊 Anyways stants, any sign of boost n burble back in your life yet ?

Hi Dan, flux was my first port of call , as the v1 has been insured through you for the past 7 yrs and I've always found you more than helpful as a broker 👍 It seems that because of the Muppet that hit my v1 hasn't admitted liability yet, the outstanding claim has caused a hike in the premium cost until it's resolved 😕 There's no way I'm paying nearly £900 to insure a 15yr old car with over 20yrs no claims , being the wrong side of 40 and both of us having a clean licences . I'll pm you some details just in case you can think of a way I can insure it cheaper , as I want to get it run in asap.

I knew the rear discs were overdue ,as last winter I'd felt a change in the peddle under heavy braking . So I finally got round to changing them yesterday and although the outer sides of the Godspeed discs looked ok , I knew the inner faces were worn . But check out the 1st pic 😲 Think the v1 was getting a bit jealous of the bug sti sitting in the tlc spot in the back garden lol . Although I've not pushed the brakes yet , due to them needing to be bed in , peddle and cold bite are definitely improved 😎

I was having a discussion about what a tdo4 blob wrx would probably get on a remap . Typically 260 to 280 is the norm with minimal supporting mods afaik . I have seen graphs for closer to 300 and a few even slightly over , I think these generally are over compensated dyno calibrations or pushed to the limit in cold conditions . Don't get me wrong some ej's will make better power than others and I've read that some tuners "cheat" a bit and use the tdo4 off the ej25 which apparently has a slightly bigger hotside (not that I know that's a fact) Its not a good idea imo to map a car at any components limit ,especially during the winter's colder denser air . As when driven in the summer months and coupled with a heat soaked tmic the (wound up to the max) tdo4 basically turns into a hair dryer, pushing nothing but hot air due to running above the small compressor wheel tdo4's efficiency range (Causing detonation) I haven't watched the vid but if he says he can get 300hp + out of most of the newage wrx's with minimal mods ? I wonder if he recommends changing the precat up pipe to a less restrictive one or any heatsoak prevention and what the longevity has been of the scoobs with turbos he's pushed over their efficiency range? I've found some mappers map for figures to "big up " themselves (sod the longevity) some map for a balance of power , economy and with a margin of safety accounting for a components failure or limits . Some are just plain !Removed!

Can just eco what tidgy said , as although any v3 or v4 sti engine will fit , finding a good second hand 20 yr old Subaru engine is pretty difficult. So I'd say a rebuild would be a better option , although more costly good clean type r's are commanding good money now. Due to the visual damage to the block a donor block , new crank , rods , pistons ect will all be needed . So I'd expect a £4k plus price tag for a relatively standard spec rebuild . R.m performance in Banbury could help and Mick certianly knows his Scooby engines . What county are you in ?

Certainly won't be being scrapped now it's gotta fresh coat of paint , can't see me ever selling it either . tbh Alex, I think I'll probably be buried in it 😂 Did have a parcel from alyn at As performance turn up today ☺ Nothing too exciting though , just some new rear discs and brembo sport pads for the rear 2 pots .I knew the rear discs and pads were due a change. After all they were the ones off the v3uk and the discs were bought 2nd hand off a mates 04 wrx then (so they've done well)

Originally I was gonna get my mechanicals so I was happy with them and transfer them into a clean type r jdm shell. But the v3 UK had caught severe tin worm before I was ready and my brv had to break the clean v1sti to get his money back . Couldn't let the clean jdm roots sti shell go to the scrappy ,so here she is lol . Although the preface front end is definitely growing on me , the smaller jdm front number plate and lower grill had smartened things up . Still seemed to be missing something 🤔 What with getting her back and getting the bug sti up n running I'd forgotten about the induction scoop that I'd left with the body shop , well until they phoned me to say it was done 😂

Although I probably wouldn't have been so happy about it a couple of weeks ago ....... I've certainly learned something lol . That the ej205 onwards crank sprocket has a lot more teeth on it than the early classic ones and if one's bent or missing it won't start 😂 A man that never made a mistake probably never made anything worth making 😉 Not that I like to think of it as a mistake..... more of a lesson learned on my newage learning curve 😂 But at least it wasn't anything to do with me not knowing how to build a good ej20 and just a minor (albeit hard to find) issue . Guess I'd better give the bug a rinse and sort some insurance out soon 😊

So one of the reasons I took this project on to learn a bit about New age scoobs and avcs . After fitting at engine I had a no start fault 😕 I'd checked for fuel and spark and had both 🤔 so checked most of the loom , dash and ecu pins , then found that it was only sparking for the first rotation of the engine .... must be timing ? So pulled the timing belt off again and marks were spot on (still) 🤔 Then noticed the 1 of the crank sprocket pins was bent , so tried to straighten it and it snapped off completely ffs. Ordered a new sprocket (£17 from icp) fitted that and refitted the timing belt ..... Fired up and sounded sweet with good oil pressure 😊 So hands up I'd used the crank sprocket teeth to turn the crank into position while setting up the timing marks . I usually use the flywheel but with having a bad back atm, I hadn't fitted it while the engine was in doors ,as I didn't want the extra weight to carry 🙄 Why put my mistakes in this thread ? So hopefully if someone has similar symptoms they can check their crank sprocket teeth and fix it sooner than I did lol . Pic of the gap toothed sprocket and obligatory mad scientist meme 😊 Can't work out how to upload a vid but guess I'll be too busy running it in to bother doing so now 😂

Cheers Stu , gotta say it was the oldest and probably shinest Scooby at the car show 😁 @stants not sure if it's cos I've missed her , the new tyres all round or the geo set up but she seems to handle better😎 I've had a heavy workload and a lot of social stuff going on recently , that coupled with the car related back and knee pain has left the bug on the back burner a bit 😕 But hopefully I'll have a update on the bug thread tomorrow 😉

I think most scoobs look a bit "chinless " without a splitter and do like the look of a bug with the jdm sti lights , as no disrespect but i think the oe wrx bug headlights are quite fugly.

Glad you finally got it mapped , fella 😎 If your boy likes it that much tell the Mrs you need a fmic for farthers day then 😊

Glad too see the project is still going , starting to take shape nicely and loving the digital dash . Some sweet fabrication as always 👍

I'm with you there bud , I love the look of white wheels but I've only ever had 1 set of white rims and got fed up with cleaning em all the time lol . Those particular ones are 18" revolution melineiums off a mates gobstoper rep UK turbo , dubbed the "robstopper" lol . It was in for a bit of paintwork at the same time and they used his wheels to keep mine mobile ,while my rotas were being refurbished 😉 I've been busy prepping the v1 for a local car show tomorrow, so have fitted .... the lower grill , to hide the fmic for added old skool stealth . A import sized front number plate , for looks and aerodynamics , cos the UK one was the size of a dinner tray 😂 And some oe sti wing badges, as she looked naked without em 😊 Found a (albeit rubbish ) Pic of robs "robstopper" which has been looked after by rcm for over a decade and is running a healthy 310 hp, on the standard UK lump with 260k on the clock 😎 And one of mine after "fettleing " the front end a bit

That's not a bad time 👍 Mine is a lightweight v1 sti with a forged engine and 6 speed , so know it's got at least low 12's in her . Tbh on my 3rd attempt I managed to shave nearly 2 seconds off my 1/8 of a mile time 😎 but was too busy looking over my shoulder at the type r I was rinsing 😁 that I tried to dump it in 4th and found 6th 😞 then rolled across the line in 5th ..... 🙄 Still beat the type r with a 15.2 but was pretty miffed that I'd made a proppa hash of the run 😂😂

One of my coilpacks has the locking tab missing and used to vibrate loose, I just put a bit of insulation tape on the coilpack where the plug goes then put the plug on . Bit redneck but it made the plug fit tighter and I did 910 miles to Cornwall and back last year without issues (so it worked) I wouldn't think your issue is with the coilpack , due to it being brand new and Probably more likely to be a issue with the loom plug itself . I doubt uprated coilpacks would make any difference as the outer casing (where the plug connects) would probably be the same shape in order to fit the oe Subaru loom plug . I'd try to make the plug fit better by using my redneck option and check the pins in the plug are solid (not wobbly) , the rubber insulation around the plug pins is intact and the pins are free from corrosion (making a constant good connection) . Let me know how you get on . If I remember rightly your fairly local to me ? If it drives well enough your welcome to pop round and I'll have a squint Saturday? Pm me again if you like bud 😉

Could be either the fork return spring or the clutch slave needs bleeding, can't help with the rims I'm afraid

If it has teeth and wraps around all 4 cam pulleys and crank yes it the timing belt and f it is the timing belt ? don't even start it let alone drive it , as if it slips more than 3 teeth or snaps it's bye bye engine , hello £3k+ bill 😞. Timing belt replacement is not a novice job but can be done at home with cam locks and a decent toolkit . Not wanting to sound rude but if you don't know what the belt looks like you should probably let someone else do it bud . Generally to supply and fit a full cambelt kit your looking at £500 to £700