savage bulldogs

Nothing again ..... but I did buy a aem afr kit and datalogit to allow me map apexi fc ecu's [emoji6]

Lwb caddy for work and the scooby for the school ( and 1/4 mile ) runs [emoji39] .

Think I bought the same ebay nuts couple of years ago [emoji53] instead of gloss black to match the rotas they look like they'd match my brvs nuts (strangely ginger ish ) [emoji23] How much were they sandy ?

Today I be mostly giving the scooby the hump ..... It don't look to happy that I've got the day off , walked straight past it and started working on the caddy instead [emoji23] Only tidying up the rims and cleaned the bay a bit ...... as most of you know I like a clean bay

Dunno much about how the graphs are supposed to look but the things listed all seem to be to do with airflow /fueling. Maybe check .... Loom earth's and plugs . Spark Plug colour /condition. Intake air leaks . Vacuum gauge check that the actuator is starting to open and reaching fully open at the correct pressure

I bet its fast as fook though being Light weight RA version . Rust Altered weight saving tin worm at its best [emoji23]

Mine has the ra rear bench and original v1 sti door cards which almost match the front seats, well colour wise at least

Mine we're already in the v1sti shell I bought off my brv for £500 ...... along with the rotas, apexi ecu , Whiteline bits ect .... but i looked at what the hatch seats were selling for at the time , hence why I knew what they were going for back then [emoji6]

Seems like a bargain bud , these were going for £400 the pair 3yrs ago . Not that I payed that for mine [emoji6] And I bet a few 2.5 sti's have gone pop since [emoji39]

Shame your not a bit closer you could've sat in mine to see if you like em

I like them and i have no problem fitting my skinny !Removed! in either classic or newage seats lol . I'd love to replace em with some original v1 sti cloth and aclantra buckets though (to keep it looking original ) but they're all over 20 yrs old . So I recon I'll have to eventually get some standard classic bucket seats re trimmed.

If ir occurs when accelerating or decelerating (engine breaking not with the clutch dipped) As stants said check the gearbox and rear diff oil levels .if the levels are fine and they're due a change, maybe try refreshing the oil in both. I'd imagine if it was p.s whine you'd also get it while idling stationary and turning from lock to lock.

I'm 6 ft and about 13 stone and I've found the hatch sti seats quite comfortable, even though they're a little wider than the classic buckets . Only fitment issue I had putting them in my classic, is the rear inner bolt in the seat rail didn't line up ( other 3 bolted straight in ). So I made a couple of brackets up out of a old tmic bracket . And 1 of the redneck bracket .

Payment received , it's been posted and should be with you Tuesday before 4 pm. [emoji106] I've pm'd you the consignment number as well, just in case you need it Phill [emoji6]

Yeah that's why I said to take note if the oe position of the adjuster .... unmapped over boost = nom nom pistons [emoji39] . that first pic is the solinoid duty map and not the boost curve obviously ? If adjusting the arm got rid of the rattle ? I'd suggest getting another working actuator as your current one sounds worn /weak .

You can normally adjust the pre tension on the actuator arm by turning a nut on the arm but some don't adjust and if you adjust some they affect boost levels . So if it is adjustable mark the original position so you can put it back to "oe" if you get over / under boost

Give your wastegate /actuator arm a wiggle as it could be loose causing the rattle and the boost solinoid to struggle to hold boost .

I'll pm you and wrap it up over the weekend [emoji106] I assume the blue box thrust race is the same but if not you'll have to get a new pink box 1 [emoji6]

It's fairly heavy ,so say £50 including postage and pay pal fees ? Unless you want to collect it from Suffolk and you can have it for £30

It's been sat in a bag for 15 months ,so it's got a bit of surface rust and hasn't been cleaned. It had the minor chip on the clutch plate (last pic ) when we got it out the box new but it run 330hp for 7 k without issues . Chip to the plate and plate thickness .

I've got a spare 5 speed pink box clutch (somewhere in the man cave) it's only done about 7k miles but it's missing the thrust race (I used that on my 6 speed pink box) and it's been sitting for 18 months . If you're in no major hurry I'll dig it out at the weekend and chuck some pics up to see if it's any use to you ?

I've read some classics will run ok with a decat or fmic without it being mapped in but newage are a bit more particular when it comes to airflow changes . I personally wouldn't change anything that changes airflow or fueling without getting the map tweeked . As even if it seems to run fine if it's running rich you'll get piston wear from bore wash and if it's running lean it will eat itself.

Or the rot got em

Day off work today and the weather's not good enough to to do anything on the scooby [emoji57] popped round to see a vdub mate of mine to see how his projects are going in his workshop. He has converted the mk1 golf to 4wd, fitted a turbo'd and forged 3.3ltr v6 that makes some serious ponies [emoji7] The a3 in the background is early days but that's had a tunnel welded in it to take the s4 gearbox attached to the twin charged and forged 3.2 v6 . Only popped in for a cuppa.... left 3 hrs later with my hands covered in oil lol .

If your's is a 2.5 with avcs they are known to breath quite heavy especially when mapped . But that's far to much oil to loose in 100 mls . Are you sure the 2 port can has been fitted correctly and 1 of the breathers has been blocked off by mistake? If you didn't seem to have a issue when the rcm 1 was fitted , I'd refit that (most things rcm are good quality ) and ideally you need a 3 port can , some people run 2 cans on tuned 2.5's