savage bulldogs

Only thing I know about the arch gaps ,is that on both of my classics none of the them was the same lol

Just asked as it looks like camber wear and lowering throws the camber out and the rear camber can't be adjusted . Unsure if the rear control arm or lateral link bushes being worn would throw out the castor enough to cause wear but they might be worth checking

Is it on standard height suspension ?

Seemed to have a sticky caliper somewhere on the scoob as I'm getting a anoying rubbing noise . so decided to clean and re grease the brakes all round with some red rubber grease ...... I only finished 1 of the front brembos ,As I ended up stripping the pad kit out, cleaning , regreasing ,and giving the caliper a coat of poor boys wheel sealant . Then a combination of hang over and ocd side tracked me into washing ,waxing and sealing the rim On a plus side seeing as the rotas were sprayed 2.5 yrs ago and the firestone tyres have done 10k miles they both look in fairly good nick still (so my geo settings must be good to) So it now feels like I've got a odd sock on as I've only got one shiny arch [emoji23]

Apexi do a safc fueling computer so you can alter fueling without having a remap but it doesn't look anything like that . I certainly wouldn't adjust it until you know exactly what it does . As it could be a control box for anything ie hud display ,turbo timer ,fuel computer, boost controller ect . Id eco stants and say look for a manufacturers mark and model number and give it a google [emoji6] Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk

No but i could do with shedding some weight elsewhere in the car to balance it out XD Take the back seats out ...... less weight and you'll hear the sub better [emoji39]

Used to have a 2k + watt system in my old car (pre scooby) this bad boy used to drive the air outta your lungs if you sat in the back seats [emoji12] With 4x vibe kevlar series component speakers in the doors powered by a alpine amp for added clarity at volume Lasted 2 weeks in the first scooby ..... nothing I listened to sounded as good as the scooby spool n burble [emoji23] Now I just run a alpine head unit ,vibe black series 6" components in the front and 6x9's in the rear shelf . Looks like a big bin for the dough though , nice choice [emoji106]

No thanks Geoff but thanks for your input [emoji8]

I'm not 100% what injectors the z4 runs, I do know it definitely runs a tdo5 16g and produces 260 hp . Unfortunately even if the z4 did run grey 380's, the fueling would be out (possibly due to the intake) plus the tdo4 spools earlier and the tdo5 16g pulls much harder later in the Rev range.

Diff ,bearings and bushes wouldn't have any load on them with the car off the ground . So probably wouldn't show the same symptoms. It might be worth checking wheel bearings and suspension for play while it's in the air . Although knocking shocks and bushes don't make a rotational noise when worn themselves , if they have a lot of play they can cause the wheel to be out of alignment and cause tyre wear /rotating noise [emoji6]

Yeah the z4 runs a tdo5 16g and possibly yellow 440cc injectors . As tidgy said best bet is to put the standard air box back in ,as that should sort the fueling out untill you can afford a map able ecu and a remap .

Sounds like the noise is in time with the rotation of the wheels . Does it pull to 1 side when braking or if you release the steering wheel? Could you drive with someone in the back to listen and locate excatly where the noise is coming from. If it's coming from a wheel arch .... Could be a sticky caliper , handbrake mechanism or bent splash guard. Shock, top mount ,lateral link bush . Wheel bearing or inner /outer c.v . Are all worth checking for wear /play If it coming from the center ... Rear diff and diff mounts /bushes or prop uj . Best of luck getting it sorted bud

Your welcome mate , much sooner see it being used rather than sitting in 1 of my "you never know I might need that 1 day " boxes [emoji5]

You said it had a new lump ,was the clutch kit ,spigot bearing and gearbox oil renewed when the lump was switched? Thrust race or clutch release bearing wear will (normally) get louder when you dip the clutch on idle when stationery. I don't know too much about gearbox witchcraft tbh but the gearstick works the selector forks and I wouldn't have thought that pulling the gearstick slightly would make the release bearing make a noise . What's the box and diff oil levels and conditions? Unfortunately it Does sound a bit like gearbox issue ie idle shaft ,selector ,center diff ect . If the oils old ,You could try dropping the box oil to see if it's got any metal bits in it . While under the car check the gearbox mounts and cradle bolts are all ok and that the gearstick linkage isn't worn or loose . Hopefully it's a cheap fix for you fella

I've got a fair understanding of general injection and ignition timing from setting up old school carb and dizzy N/A engines. After owning and setting up the avcr (electronic boost controller ) I'm now comfortable with boost target maps and solinoid duty adjustments to achieve those targets . So although I'm more than happy with Clive attowe's skill in the dark arts of ecu mapping, i've decided to by the necessary equipment to data log and map apexi ecu's myself [emoji41] Don't get me wrong , I'm not gonna jump in and start altering parameters but I intend on doing a bit of data logging and using the analogue input on the apexi ecu to add a wideband sensor . So the first piece of equipment turned up last weekend . Aem x digital wideband kit to monitor air fuel ratio, hopefully I'll get this fitted at the weekend and order up a "hako f.c " interface to start logging data and learning something new [emoji41]

Just make sure it's the v1 (92) to v2 ( early 96) fitment kit . As the heater matrix ,turbo coolant and header tank hoses are different from other classics

I know a couple of people who have got gt4's any prices in mind ?

[emoji23]

Not in Essex I know but I used Clive attowe tuning in Norwich and I'm just across the Essex border in Suffolk 😉

Got 4 x elbaich pro springs with new rear shocks and group n top mounts ? £150 ( group n top mounts cost me £120 )

Tried it but didn't get on with it tbh so haven't got any pics of my vaping stuff ...... Did find this pic for you boys though [emoji23]

There was a mint bug sti wagon at attowes last time I was there , he did say it was rare but I didn't know why [emoji41] At least that explains why I couldn't find it listed [emoji106]

Didn't know they stopped making them tbh but I did know the dvla get it wrong sometimes lol . I tried the usual sites to find your "applied model code " and I can't seem to find it . If you search a bit longer it might crop up somewhere on the net . If it's got leather seats it might be a "se" (I think that's what there called ) which is a wrx with different trim . Try to find out if it's a mistake by the dvla as if it's a wrx it will affect value and might lower insurance costs

Yeah give the gggf8kd number a google to find out what it was when it left the factory. Log books don't always have the right info ,as a mate of mine had sport on the log book of his jdm wrx import Afaik The brembos and 6 speed are standard equipment on bug onwards sti's

Hi n welcome to soc , nice looking wagon[emoji41] Has it got brembos all round and a 6 speed box? As they're standard equipment on a newage sti . Although the only real way to know if it's a genuine sti is by checking the "model code" on the silver I.D plaque [emoji6]