savage bulldogs

Try removing the return to pump pipe and putting it into a empty bottle . Run at idle to drain the system flush it through with fresh fluid . Then connect the pipework back up ,refill the system and bleed it . As somtimes just a fluid refresh can sort p.s or hydraulic clutch issues as they tend to get forgot at service intervals [emoji6]

I got stuck in the snow in my old v6 fwd so Bought a v3 uk classic at 37 . Told the wife just a exhaust n remap and I'll be happy ....... Now I'm 42 and think the drivers side rear door is the only bit left of the original uk car lol

Subaru do tend to switch stuff about quite a bit on different versions throughout the years . I can only go by what I've personally seen ...... V1/v2 sti and wrx's run the same tdo5 16g top entry turbo with different cams and ecu map to make the power difference. V1 /v2 uk turbo 2000's run a top entry tdo4 . I've seen v3 to v6 uk turbo 2000's all running front entry tdo4's . I haven't worked on the v3 onwards jdm wrx's and sti's so can't say what turbo or ecu is definitely on them , so the previous post was a educated guess . Best bet would be a google or searching the likes of scoobypeidia for a definite answer [emoji6] .

Classics run a tapered "conical fire ring" gasket between downpipe and cat back . If the 3" cat back has a tapered flange the 2.5 fire ring normally seals fine . Generally it's only if the 3 " cat back has a flat flange that it won't seal but I dunno if newage is the same .

I'd say ecutek would be the best option for a remap on a standard engine . As you use your standard ecu and just pay for a ecutek software licence to let the mapper adjust the standard map on it . If you decide to go down the bigger turbo ,injectors ect route at a later date ,then maybe consider a stand alone ecu . Cheapest option would be to get the avcr set up on a dyno . Then while gradually upping the boost you can monitor how well the ecu is compensates the fuelling map for a little extra boost [emoji6]

I was advised to "t" the 2 cam breathers together to equal the pressure between the "banks" . Dunno if there's any truth in it tbh ,especially as the oe oil breather pipework "t" 's crank and right hand head breather together anyways . Either way if you do track days ,running higher hp or just like squeezing the throttle on the exit to corners I think it's a worth while mod to lessen the chance of det . As for me n my old shed spec scooby today I be mostly embarrassing a nearly new 1 series m35i on a slip lane .

If it was a classic that would be as even the classic sti's only have 1 cam and 1 crank sensor. Unsure of newage , I'm afraid bud .

I bought nips and nip dust caps from ebay , can't remember the seller but I asked them if they were the correct ones before ordering them [emoji6]

Hi n welcome, are set on a impreza wrx auto ,not that there's anything wrong with them . Just the 3ltr spec b and twin turbo gtb auto legacies are a bit easier to find in the UK for sub £4k

Unsure if your's is the same being a blob and as it's a sti it might have avcs pulleys too . on my classic the cam sensor is the terracotta plug just in front of the white rag by the cam pulley on the right in this pic .

I haven't shopped about for prices that's just a figure I saw . Tbh after £6k on a van to chuck plaster in the back I think I'd be sleeping in it if I spent anymore cash for a while [emoji23]

Yeah it's better than white or silver and my vdub bud has already offered me a set of freshly painted 19's for peanuts to fill the arches lol

All I can tell you is it's a 1.6 tdi with 102 ps 250flbs as standard . Strangely enough I might have already stumbled across the "flash " map [emoji6] I'd never considered modding my work van and wouldn't normally consider a genric map ....... but I will admit for a £400 flash map you get 140 hp 310 flbs , so I won't say that I'll never get it done on the dirty derv dub [emoji39]

Yeah, ex bg van 66k, fsh ,6 doors . My old combo van was a low milage ex bg and I had it 7 yrs it was as good as gold . Tbh it's probably a bit too nice to chuck my plastering tools in . I just hope the "wheelie bin blue" colour grows on me lol

Too cold to work on the scooby and not enough snow to go out for a pint of milk but I did buy it some company. In the form of a Lwb caddy work van ,i've only done 60 mls in it but i gotta say I'm quite impressed with it [emoji106] It's a 1.6 tdi with weedy 102ps but 250flbs it churns out means it's fairly nippy , well compared to my old combo van anyways [emoji39]

I like the look of preface plastics in black, being unpainted they don't stone chip too . Just spotted a few v1 bits on a f.b page "Bart rocko " the seller There's a esl ecu and apexi resonator delete amongst a few other bits 😉 https://m.facebook.com/groups/493405154066320?view=permalink&id=1411777102229116

Nice find ,bud . with a top entry tdo5 16g as standard you're a fmic , yellow injectors and a remap away from 320hp + If it's a track weapon a v1 wrx ra (Rust Altered ) will be lighter and screaming out for rust to be cut out and wide arches fitted [emoji39]

Havent had the time to investergate this properly but as temporary fix, I marked the position of the icv ,loosened it off and turned it to raise the idle too 900 ish rpm (hot idle) . Ive only Done about 100 mls of town n b road driving but it's not stalled so far . I'll still give the icv a clean at some point and let you know if it improves the idle at the original icv position .

Get some rear camber bolts before getting a geo done , if it hasn't got them on already [emoji6]

I had a bit of a play with mine as the apexi fc was already mapped for 1.5 bar before I used the avcr to control the boost. What do you wanna do bud ? If you just want a low boost setting ,if your getting a bit of overboost in higher gears , lack of boost in lower gears ect I can probably run you through what to do .

There's about 4 or 5 different types of top mount intercooler y pipes and unfortunately I've only seen the 92 to 98 ones . You'd probably be better off looking at a y pipe kit for you version / year and either buy the kit or seeing if you can work it out from what's included in the kit pictures

The small bore pipe connected to the turbo outlet is a vacuum line and pending on year /model will either go directly to the boost control solinoid or 't' into the actuator vac line. Although any bit of "vac line " of the same internal dia will be fine to replace it with, it shouldn't have oil in it . In your pic the big red aftermarket pipe connected to turbo outlet doesn't look pushed on far enough . A air leak from the turbo outlet pipework would cause a lack of boost and bad idle .

Are you fitting a boot install and a "lift pump" ? Swirlpot is on my list but I think I want it mounted in the bay .

Never really give that much thought tbh , cars are for driving imo but gambit posted this top trumps subaru on f.b today [emoji7] I'd still have to drive it though , so it's probably not worth me selling my house to buy it [emoji57]

Washed it yesterday [emoji41] Enjoyed it this morning on a 70 mile round trip [emoji5] Guess I'll be washing it again tomorrow [emoji57] [emoji23]