savage bulldogs

I run gruppe headers,4 bolt up pipe, a cusco decat downpipe mated to a 3" Cobra track day system [emoji6] It has 2 resonators in the centre section and a big back box but still flows well enough for 360hp @1.5 bar [emoji41] If your coilovers have adjustable damper ,just set them a couple of clicks softer . As my meister r zeta-r coilovers are fine set 3 clicks softer than the original geo set up even with hardly any wheel gap and the Whiteline arb, droplinks and roll centre correction kit keeping things tight in the twisties [emoji41]

Hi n welcome Steve . Afaik the oe p1 springs were made by elbaich and there was a group buy thread on scabby net a while back . I have got a set of classic elbaich pro springs which are good for fast road use as they're progressive rate (soft in a straight line but stiffen up under load in the twisties ) But they ain't quite the same as the oe p1 elbaich jobbies . So if you wish to keep the car standard you'd have to find some p1 oe spec springs . P.s don't be shy and feel free to post a pic of the p1 , as we like pics on here 😉

So buy yourself a 3" cobra track day system and set the coilovers a bit softer ... . Da daa 4 door daily that doesn't chip your teeth or make your ears bleed 😉

Hi n welcome. Sounds like a faulty or dirty maf . Have a search in the tech section on here for the "sticky thread" self reading classic ecu codes . Remove the maf and clean it with brake cleaner . Don't touch the fine wire airflow sensor wire (as they're very fragile) and make sure the maf is dry before refitting. Do a ecu reset and then start it to see if the fault remains . If it's still not running right do another ecu code check to see if there's any fault code stored . Let us know how you get on , bud

Right I know a few of you on here know a fair bit about computers and I need to replace my old compaq presario . I only use it for work invoices, burning cd's and hopefully (in the near future ) apexi datalogging . Windows office isn't essential ,as I use the free libre office software atm but a disc drive is (for ripping n burning) Budget around £400 any suggestions people's ?

Hi n welcome, I'm just across the boarder in Suffolk and spend a fair bit of time on attowes dyno in Norwich 😉

Although they do look fairly badly stained , I sold my old work van to a detailer . Being a plasterer and owning it for 7 yrs you can guess how bad the seats looked . 3 hrs in his hands and they looked good as new (so might be worth getting someone to look at em ) Otherwise I'd imagine a retrim would be fairly expensive but if funds won't allow maybe a interior out of a breaker might be a cheaper option

If your original set up has a single scroll turbo there's quite a few oe turbo options that hit 330hp on a 2ltr engine ,that are a straight swap . Vf35 , vf34 , tdo5 16g /18g or 20 g ect can all be found second hand for under £400 .

Or a valeter could probably clean them up well and apply some sort of sealer (scotchgard )

I've never bought anything for a newage bay and at a quick glance they do look similar. ... Well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it [emoji55]

Yep I was right the first time it's a rad panel. ..... fooked if I know where I saw alternator cover lol

Have a look at the fuel filler neck ,breather pipes and fuel pipes in that area . As the stone guard on the u bend on the filler neck traps mud which causes the neck to rot. This somtimes causes a leak when the tank is full but it stops once the the fuel level drops

Probably couldn't find the rad panel cos it's a alternator cover lol

There's a rad panel for sale in a garage clearance thread jeoff 😉

No problem bud, hope it's a cheap fix for you. The cam belt covers have lines of seals , one to seal the cambelt backing plate to the block/heads and 1 to seal the front covers to the backing plate . I mentioned this as it means oil can leak from a few places if the cam or crank seals are leaking . It also would be piece of mind to know that the cambelt isn't oil contaminated [emoji6]

I quite like the standard with a set of rotas look myself too ,but I am a bit biased 😉

Hi n welcome . All subarus are welcome on the club stands bud ..... ,hell we had a ford ka sneak in 1 year [emoji55] cos a members scoob spat it's dummy out a couple of days prior to a event [emoji57]

Ignore that last post ,as I couldn't see the pics ,no "4G" on the phone at the time and that looks like oil not coolant. Be careful tightening the sump bolts too much (google the torque settings) as the block is ally and the steel bolts will strip the threads quite easily. Most subarus don't have a sump gasket and use liquid sealant instead , so sometimes nipping them up a bit doesn't help and can pull the sump outta shape . You can buy a group n Cork sump gasket as a upgrade though [emoji6] Without seeing it in the flesh it's a bit difficult to pin point it ,so it could be any of the above . You could try removing the outer cambelt covers and checking if there's any oil leaking from the front crank and cam seals .

I'm definitely liking the de stickerd look on the leggy Geoff ,nice choice chap [emoji106] Did I read that your looking for some wrx 17's ? If so give it a search ,Cos I thought you had brembos on the front and I don't think wrx 17's clear brembos ,bud .

In that area ,There is a coolant hard pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil cooler at the front of the engine. They do tend to perish fairly easy due to being so close to the headers . So it might be worth a visual check if it's loosing coolant and not oil

I thought seeing as the old girl flies now ,I'd make the cabin look like a plane cockpit [emoji23] I've got the 4 in 1 gauge on the right ,just outta the pic too lol [emoji15] Dare'nt buy anymore ,cos i Think I'd need a uprated alternator to power them all up [emoji38] .

Day off fitting my afr gauge and restoring the black trim with solution finish 😎

Yeah I know where your coming from about learning the dark arts of ecu tweekery. As I've spent the morning fitting a aem afr kit [emoji6] But mine is already mapped safely by a reputable mapper and I have the drive train /engine already in place to handle the hp target . Even then once I'm confident enough to adjust ecu parameters I'll start by trimming fuel of boost under half throttle. I'd just say if you do go for it (and fit all the mods to your engine) back the timing and boost off before driving and logging anything. As your non forged pistons and 5 speed might not handle the v4 sti map at full throttle [emoji6]

I've heard that the jdm ecu's have the cam n crank sensor the other way round (dunno if there's any truth in it though) Also that the jdm's don't have a integrated imoblizer (unsure if that will affect you either lol ) . In theory if you fit the same auxiliaries (injectors, turbo, tmic same zorst / down pipe up pipe ect ) and the cam n crank sensors are correct , the only difference would be the sti cams and posible difference in compression ratio (between sti and uk versions ) due to different thickness headgasket and sti forged piston bowl sizes . So it might work..... But I wouldn't ever suggest that anyone bolts on a load of bits and uses a pre re mapped ecu from another scooby . Cos even if the engine model and mod spec is the same, all engines are slightly different (worn in different ways ) . So ignition and injector timing and boost levels should be set for each individual engine regardless of similarities. Maybe buy the ecu ,lead ,software , yellow 440cc and turbo (if they're cheap enough ) as you should break the 300hp mark with those mods . Then wait untill you can afford to pay to get it mapped by someone and fit the mods the day before . As you've had a few issues with you engine and drive train in the past . Last thing you want is for it to go bang, bud . At least if someone maps it for you ,you can data log with the software and teach Yourself a bit before trying to map tweek ,rather than jumping in on a full remap [emoji6]

My caddy is 5 x 112