savage bulldogs

Today i be mostly Trying to not buy another classic to keep mine company ...... I don't really need another scoob atm but It's a tidy example with mint rear arches and belongs to a local lad who I helped a couple of months back . Its a Bog standard bar decat and d.v ,98 turbo 2000 (Dutch import) 94k fsh £1.8 k ovno . Soo tempting as it would make a great daily for the winter months [emoji39]

I'm no detailer but I do like to keep a clean scoob ,so here's what I'll do in the spring .... Jet wash and 2 bucket hand wash . Clay bar or cloth (to remove tar spots ) rinse again . Sonax silver polish to hide stone chips and marks . Auto glym resin polish to lessen swirls and make the metallic paint fleck "pop" . Good quality wax (colinite 845 or some sort of carnauba wax ) this stops the polish washing off, if you re'apply once every 2 months . Just before winter I use a " paint sealer" over the wax to help it stay clean . I'm sure plenty of others will have their own method and products but that seems to work for me without breaking the bank [emoji6]

Dunno anything thing about the compatibility or the seller but I spotted these Any good ?

Haven't done much to the scoob this year so far as it's far too cold atm [emoji57] . Unfortunately I knew I had to replace my p.s pump soon, as the original 23yr old pump had been getting noisier by the day [emoji53]. I haven't made my mind up yet whether I wanted to do a newage pump conversion or mod a classic pump to take a separate custom reservoir. Checked the price of a new pump £380 [emoji33] [emoji57] Luckily enough A friend is breaking his 93 wrx ,so I bought a pump off him for £20 It was far too dirty (No way in my bay lol) so a degrease , prep n paint later . Before removing the noisy old pump I decided to flush the system through with some fresh p.s fluid , as it had never been changed in the 5 yrs I'd known the car . Then let the old pump drain the system and removed it . Finally fitted the new (25yr old) pump , filled the system ,started it up and bled it by gradually topping it up while turning the steering from lock to lock . Not as exciting as a remap but a well overdue bit of maintenance out of the way . At least the only whining I hear now is if I hit full boost and the Mrs is in the car [emoji23]

Hi n welcome, nice choice [emoji106] What have you got planned for it ,fella ?

Someone like matty b @ mbdevelopments or Scott at pole position might have the cam pulleys in stock . I don't know if there's a particular limit to get a uprated belt but I went for the gates kevlar belt (half the price of the cossie one ) with New idler's and tensioner .

standard newage 440cc wrx injectors are blue which are good for 330hp ish .

Sorry to hear the original lump is spitting it's dummy out , what have you got left to get for the new lump ?

Today I be mostly fitting a p.s pump .

Yep the ones on my 97 UK turbo just fell off but I had to chisel and grind the spot welds off my 94 jdm import.

As above is pretty much spot on but if you have a search on here there's a "sticky" thread with a buying guide that covers the main things to look out for [emoji6]

I had to remove my rear splash guards 4 yrs ago on my classic ,to do newage 2 pot rear caliper conversion and it's passed every mot since [emoji106]

This is the guide I used to fit my apexi avcr . First pic is to tell you what pinout drawing is for your model . The previous avcr owner had wrote his v4 loom colours on the diagram but if your's is a v1 /v2 phase 1 it will use the diagram under his writing number F2b Let me know how you get on, fella .

Well I still tested the water last night ..... and it was probably not the best half !Removed! idea I've had , as I didn't even my toe wet before I swear I could see steam coming outta her ears [emoji36] Guess I'll have to catch up with you all at japshow lol

It's still a 23yr old p.s pump but at least it looks a bit better after a clean up and a lick of paint . Just a shame I've got the day off due to it being too cold to render but it's also to cold to play scooby [emoji53]

I think my old 5zigen jasma system was the loudest and dirtiest sounding set up I've heard. All my mates loved it and 1 said that "if my car was a film star it would be a spit roasted buxom blonde on !Removed! tube " Still Dunno if that's a complement or not but I have changed for something a little bit more subtle now anyways.

Yeah from what I've read Harvey smith ( rip ) did loads of tests using old school "bore and flow " methods .to find the best size intake, outlet and bore size to increase flow /spool . So if you did go for the "Harvey trick up pipe " you'd be better of knowing what headers and turbo hotside you'll be using so Alyn @Asperformance can match it up with the right size up pipe [emoji6]

Although supertech stuff is good quality, I was advised that the oe stem seals are good for 500 hp +. Especially if you use the exhaust valve seals on all the valves (intake valves too) ,as the exhaust valve stem seals are made from a better quality vitron rubber to cope with the heat compared to the oe intake stem seals [emoji6]

Either haywood and Scott or a "matched" trick up pipe from Asperformance ftw , both of which are slip jointed [emoji6]

@Piggysniffer it's a haywood and Scott slip jointed up pipe, takes the stress of the manifold and up pipe gaskets . It's now on sandys scoob anyways lol , I'm now running the up pipe that came with the groupe headers .

The turbo and up pipe can be removed with the engine in situ . In a ideal senario if everything just comes undone it's probably about 4 hrs work to remove and refit [emoji41] But if it's not been off before ,you can add another 3 hrs ,6 plasters and a full swear tin [emoji23] . Only use genuine subaru gaskets or they'll be leaking again in no time [emoji30] Have a look on import car parts for turbo /up pipe fitting kit for your version. As you'll need .... Manifold to up pipe gasket . Turbo inlet (up pipe to turbo) gasket. Turbo outlet gasket . Studs and nuts (as your bound to snap or round off something) . And downpipe outlet conical fire ring gasket . If the heatsheilds look like they've seen better days and fall apart when you start , get some heat wrap and stainless steel ties to recover the up pipe. Rough run through .....Remove the tmic and bung any open pipes ,take note /mark up the vac lines before removing them. Remove the downpipe completely . There's a bracket on the up pipe at attached to the head loosen that off and remove the oil feed from underneath the bracket . Up to you if you want to buy new copper washers for refitting the oil feed banjo but I would to save having to do it all again [emoji6] Here's a pic of the manifold to up pipe and the support bracket . When refitting bolt the turbo ,up pipe and bracket loosely then nip it up tightening the bracket last .

Cos I don't get moaned at spending other people's money [emoji12]

Well that's me out , although I'm lucky enough to have a petrol head Mrs , I don't think she's gonna want to go to a car show on our anniversary [emoji23]

Whats the date of this, chaps?

You'd need a mappable ecu or esl daughter board fitted at about £600 supplied and mapped which should see 280 hp . If you want to break the 300hp mark ,add a fmic and yellow injectors (add other £300 + fitting). Then it should see 320hp ish .