savage bulldogs

Nice clean looking preface classic you've got there [emoji106] Any plans for it or are you just gonna fill up and enjoy ?

There's 2 types on the market, 1 type you have to put a oe gasket either side of the spacer (4 inlet gaskets needed) and I bought mine from advanced automotive and they have o rings provided instead of gaskets

Lol . I haven't got any before and after intake temp comparisons but the inlet manifold physical feels cooler than it did without them . I went for 8mm ones as I'm running a custom inlet and fmic pipework . The only issue I found was my v1 classic header tank bottom pipe seemed a bit stretched but the smaller thickness ones should be fine.

Sounds right but you'll have to "unbung" the end of the return port and reconnect it to the turbo intake pipe, to get it to recirc properly.

Being a 22yr old engine I'd say that you'd be better off re freshing the bottom end as well . Can't help with the headgasket thickness I'm afraid but if you're using the oe pistons /heads and the heads don't need skimming a standard thickness gasket would be fine. If you have to get the head faces skimmed or change the pistons the only tech info I can give of the top of my head , to help calculate the gasket thickness, is that the v1/v2 cylinder head chambers are 46cc in capacity. Once the crank is out check it over before ordering the shells, as subaru cranks don't like to be reground. If the journals are just outside subaru spec you might be lucky enough to get away with "oversized shells " .Most use the acl brand shells . Plastigauge the bottom end on reassembly to be sure the clearances are correct . Bear in mind that a full oe gasket kit ,timing belt kit,new shells and water pump won't give much change from £900 [emoji6]

I haven't got my v3 uk anymore but here's a pic of the standard recirc valve fitted to my old v3 inlet manifold.

Yep the valves work with hydraulic lifters . Unless your lucky enough to have the "under bucket shim " type heads ,then they can be adjusted slightly by fitting different size shims . Either way your probably looking at a engine out and top end rebuild unfortunately.

Have a word with Doug @ G19 engineering , he does the mx5 turbo conversions for a living . If your just after a tdo5 16g that will physically fit then any front entry oe impreza tdo5 16g will do the job . It's only the aftermarket tdo5's that come in 18 and 20 g

I didn't see the mx5 post on there doh . If it's a stock single scroll turbo it will have the 3 bolt flange on the bottom . The only difference on a stock tdo5 16g subaru turbo is the intake side , some are top entry and some are front entry (like in your pic)

What turbo is on it at the moment and what year is it , bud ?

Nice choice chap [emoji41] . How are you finding the drive compared to the previous newages.

Main tin worm areas on a classic are inner rear arches where the rear bumper fixings are and where inner /outer arch meet (normally seen from behind the side boot liners) the top of rear suspension turrets collect mud and rot . Front lower cross member and front /rear bumper bars .

I've never removed 1 myself but if the engine mounts are bolted to it , I dare say you can support the engines weight on a hoist and leave it in situ while you unbolt the subframe [emoji6]

Hi n welcome. Always good to hear a classic is being restored rather than broken for spares[emoji106] At least you sound prepared for "project creep " it normally catches most people out ,cos these cars seem to stealth their way under your skin [emoji23]

any excuse to put a pic of jolly green monster's monster classics bay [emoji7]

That could be the oe air density sensor plug but I'd have to check mine when I get chance . Afaik They don't have a air intake sensor as standard , I fitted a aftermarket one from jt inovations on mine in the fmic core to throttle body pipework when I had a mafless map done . As this will give the correct reading for the temps entering the inlet .

Looks Loads better imo and you can probably sell the other rims to pay for the open source software [emoji6]

Scoobies do tend to get airlocks when the coolant system gets refilled. Sometimes jacking the front up and running it up till the fans cut in helps to get rid of air locks . I know how to bleed a classic system but unsure about newage as they have a extra cap on the rad . Hopefully someone who knows will be along to help with the newage bleeding. If the thermostat is blocking the flow, the bottom rad hose will feel much colder than the top hose . As the bottom hose connects directly to the thermostat housing [emoji6]

I know someone with a bog standard cashmere yellow v3 type r , think he wants about 7k for it .

Just saw a pic on f.b that sky sports f1 had of japshow finale of cusco's waggon Didn't watch it myself so don't know if there was any others on there

Could just be a tps issue as the v1 /v2's and v3 / v4 have a different number of wires going to the tps . I'm not sure how many wires the v5 /v6 phase 2 have ? There used to be someone who made adapters to allow you to fit a phase 2 v5/v6 inlet manifold onto the earlier phase 1.5 heads . They might be a better option as you could then use the cars original v5/v6 phase 2 inlet manifold, tps ,icv ect Try giving phase 2 manifold on phase 1.5 heads a google Just re read your post and noticed that your running grey 380's. This would mean that the fuelling is wrong , so I'd suggest you fit some phase 2 yellow 440's with phase adapters asap and don't use boost untill they're fitted .

Think Matt's on the lookout for another gc8 to add to his collection lol

Can't beat the silver scoob with black wheels combo [emoji6] I've only ever been in the passenger seat of a blobeye wrx running 290 hp but It felt a bit too tame and refined for me . It did only have tein springs and 18's for suspension mods though

Sounds like a plan but I'll give the trannies a miss [emoji33] [emoji23]

I think the vf35 is fairly similar to the tdo5 16g anyways just newer . Garys 02 bug sti had a vf34 and made 330hp with a cone ,intake pipe ,3" downpipe and remap