Dogconker

I must admit I have though about getting some of these, but not got round to it yet. Always seems to be something more important going on that warrants my money 😩

Well I haven't done anything only but in absolutely fuming with myself after pulling around a traffic calming island and somehow getting it completely wrong and bouncing the wife's car over the kerb, front and back wheels on the passenger side. Screwed both tyres down that side so that's £270 down the drain by the time I've had the tracking done too, all because I've been a pratt, so effing annoyed with myself, no idea how I even did it but both tyres have a bulge in the tyre wall so that's that!

Absolutely fuming with myself!!!! driving the wife's car and was pulling round a traffic calming island, somehow misjudged it and clipped the front wheel on the kerb, wheel is fine, tyre has a golfball sized bulge stickingboutbof the side wall, Effin marvellous, that's £120 down the pan plus another £25 to get the tracking done. Hacked off is an understatement!!

Maybe Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Valetted mine inside and out, wax and all. Just got to black the tyres once they're dry. Then I'm going to sneak the Subaru owners club stickers on the back window while the wife isn't looking 😉

Around 50 is what you would expect to see on a combined run. So I'd say your mpg is about right

Pretty sure there is

The filter shouldn't look like that after that amount of time unless you've been somewhere dusty. id look st taking it to a dealers, I assume it's still under warranty so I'd take it a dealer. I spanked mine back from Wales one day and checked the mpg even then it was still low 40s

I did a forced DPF regen this morning so was doing about 70 in 4th for 10-15 mins even doing that I was getting 46mpg. The other really big factor in your cars fuel economy is sadly something you can't do anything about and that's how it was first "run in" now modern cars don't really need running in as such but doing a proper running in process can make the engine more economical and even a little bit more oomph. My car had a 1000mile run in following some standard advice about what revs you should be limited to at what mileage. This might be why my car is quite good on mpg, if the guy who had it before you ragged it for the first 1000miles then that might lower the mpg you'll get for the life of the vehicle, but it's only a moderate effect and unlike old cars doesn't risk the engine anymore. Do try the injectors you can feel a noticeable difference after a few mins. My throttle is responsive enough that I can blip the throttle coming down the gears to rev match, not that common in a diesel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Might be worth running a tank or two of super diesel (I'd recommend shell) as this has engine cleaners in it that should clean your fuel lines, injectors etc. I wouldn't use Super forever though as the XV doesn't really like the diesel although I did get better mpg with it, it ran a bit snatchy after a while And it might be worth taking it out one day and give it a blow out, ignore the economy and just give it some beens in higher revs so that it clears the system. Not in the same way as you run the DPF but actually drive it hard for a bit, it'll feel a little sluggish initially but once the computer works out what you're doing it'll relearn (apparently the injectors learn how you're driving and adjust accordingly, there's a short period where they relearn) then you'll find it very responsive and much more lively on the accelerator. I don't know how it works but it does seem to be true. when you go back to economy mode it'll relearn again and you might get better fuel economy. you should be getting mid to high 40s without even trying, I like to put my toe down every now and then but even I get at least 45mpg good luck, let us know how you get on after a couple of tanks.

There's also a significant risk with the supermarket fuels. The fuel at tesco and asda is exactly the same fuel you get at shell if it comes from the same refinery. Where the difference is is in the additives that are added at the time of loading onto the tanker. Supermarkets use much less of the biocide and engine cleaning additives and therefore their diesel is cheaper. But there's a catch, the biocides are there to prevent the fungal/algle blooms you can get with biodiesel. If you have any moisture in your tank you can get these blooms and will stop your car running. Only solution is to drain the tank and park the car up for 6 months and clean out the injectors, fuel lines etc, or you can steal clean the fuel tank and clean the injectors and fuel lines. With dearer brand diesel this risk is removed by the additional biocide. So you've got to ask the question is it worth saving a penny a litre when you risk this extensive cost. I spoke to an AA mechanic who says he attends 10-15 diesel cars a week with this, all used supermarket diesel. I NEVER use supermarket diesel

Well mine is in the garage because staggeringly it developed an identical fault as my wife's car with the aircon. I'm half expecting the dealers to tell me it's the same problem which is a worry as it implies that the aircon condenser unit only lasts 2-3 years and then the seals go. I went from fully functioning aircon to nothing in 3 days. The dealer is sorting it out as a warranty issue so it's just an annoyance but it's a concern that this might happen again in 2-3 years when the warranty has expired.

No only if your filter becomes blocked then you need to force a regen as soon as possible using the method I posted earlier. If that doesn't clear you'll need to get it done at a garage who can use a heavier handed approach. Don't ignore though because the DPF filter is a big bill if it's blocked Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You shouldn't have any real problems but you can expect to get new tyres and brakes at around 50k. Shouldn't need anything much earlier than that. The XV is a bit of a tardis seems to carry a load of stuff. Did you get the rear bumper top protector, if you haven't it's worth getting one because they're prone to getting scratched there when loading etc.

The other thing to consider is the difference between driving a petrol and a diesel if you're not used to diesels. In a petrol (in simplist forms) it's about the revs of the engine higher revs means more fuel. With diesels it's more to do with how hard you press the pedal rather than the revs you're at. If you've been used to driving patrols you could think low revs is better, but then you have to press the pedal harder so use more fuel. I've obviously overly simplified this there is more too it in terms of minimum fuel requirements etc blah blag.

Also the car had an injector "learning system" so driving like a loon for a bit will change the dynamics of the car. If you drive hard it changes how the injectors work to give you better responsiveness. you could try driving on the motorway (a fairly empty one) at about 60mph in 3rd or 4th so you're at about 2500rpm,15mins like that will force a DPF regeneration which might help with economy. If you do short runs this is a definite must once a month

Mine runs mid to high 40s generally and that's driving normally with the odd squirt as it were. i have had over 70mpg on a 200 mile run hypermiling. The 50-56 is based on you trundling around in cruise control at 56mph on a flat road. That's not reality. If you follow hypermiling techniques you can get a really high mpg but long term that's not good for your DPF filter. generall though I get around the same figures as dug

Well, at least it was nothing major j the end

I'm looking to get a towbar for mine for a small camping trailer. Can anyone recommend anyone who can fit a detachable flange towbar with all the electrical install? going for a detachable as I don't want to ruin the appearance of the car, plus I don't want to lose ground clearance too much.

Not such a rare event for us to see two, we've got two on our drive. 😂😂

Packed the car ready for the long haul to holiday, off camping, surprised how much stuff gutted in the XV and a roof box considering we have a dog cage in the boot so nothing could go in the boot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like Aircon issue is finally resolved. Wife's car had to have a new condenser radiator due to the old one leaking at a seal. Aircon finally nice and cold again. At least it didn't need any big or expensive parts , just a condenser radiator [emoji15] You can see where the leak was by the dirty oily patch in the bottom left where the oil has come out.

Well it's just cost them £100 worth of gas so I guess they'll learn. I was struggling with why they only did a vacuum test. The work is under warranty so I'm not really bothered how much it costs them as long as at the end of the day I get a working system and its not costing me anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take it to the ombudsman, they will address this, if they screwed up and you've got proof it's on their head surely. If go to the ombudsman.

Yeah I knew that was for a similar gas but the 15% maximum loss still applies as I understand it. My dealers have at least identified the leak now, they took the car to an airconditioning specialist who found the system had lost 400g of gas. They carried out a vacuum leak test and found it didn't lose vacuum and that the system was ok. They then filled the system with new gas and a day later the dealers retested it as a final check and found it had lost another 200g of gas. They eventually found a failing seal near the condenser that was the cause of the leak. Now I'm not an expert on Aircon but I guess you do know what you're talking about, in which case you could possibly answer me a question. Why would a specialist carry out a negative pressure leak test on a positive pressure system? It's obvious to me that when they introduced the vacuum into the system, it probably "sucked", for want of a better word, the seal back into the hole and blocked it. Had the done a positive pressure test as the system would be in its normal use they would have detected the leak quickly.