Mr B

Yes in my opinion early ones best, up to 2009 still not too bad but it just the modern way, all engineering skill gone into making parts as cheap as possible and no interest in making them last or easy repair, no big money in that lol . Same across all makes not just subaru, new cars are a 5 to 8 year wonder then lot of expensive faults that in most cases beyond economical repair or pushing limits of worthwhile repair thus helping sell another new bit of junk . Keep looking and you will find one .

RAC or other inspections generally a waste of money unless you completely unable do basic checks . Looks like they cut the flange joints out the back boxes to rear y pipe . Patching it up was the cheap option for dealer, going be a job down road for new owner. Stainless rear boxes and y pipe/centre pipe likely be 400 to 500 I expect due to bit extra complexity/parts .

Would imagine exhaust going need further work fairly soon then Just inspect everything2 or 3 times and have at least 2 decent test drives . Your main restriction is limited amount for sale of model you want and as very versatile awd vehicles many get used to these capabilities ...

pictures never tell the whole story but from those I say it don't look scabby with corrosion, does look like scuff indent marks on that chassis rib possibly ground on rock or poor lifting perhaps . What exactly done to exhaust ? I always advise people go on instincts and if not 100% happy with any details walk away . Pretty much all dealers good at hiding/blagging or resolving issues cheap as possible and can have huge margins on price so be diligent on checks and be sure knock a good chunk off price and do expect to possibly need inject 300 to £600 into a vehicle to get it up to scratch if not 100% lucky .

For an SG as an example we charge £350 for kyb excel g (japan made) and kyb springs plus new bump stop and protection boot, heavy duty springs £20 more and also can do custom springs from spring coil to any spec which good for special towing scenarios, small gain or drop in ride height or for slight improvement to handling on an XT . If need strut top mounts that extra but most rear mounts are good and price options between 60 to £100 are available from magnum technology or kyb If you want retain SLS setup then it got be oem tokiko struts and they only available via subaru and new are about £300 each on a good day . kyb works very well on these on ride height, ride quality and decent durable quality .

rear inner arch/turret rust can be bad and indeed sometimes can look perfect but tap them with small hammer or something and you soon know they bad/thin . Forester SG can be bad on inner arch/turrets as the reduced metal thickness in those panels as part of weight reduction changes. They go at seams, strengthening rib directly behind the strut, seat belt anchor point and where joins into sill . The inner sills and body mount area for trailing arms can get scabby too. Rear subframe comes a common failure on older subaru's or ones used in poor conditions and no decent prevention or cleaning . Subframe is easy fix but not cheap if can't do it yourself . Do check front subframes too and front lower wishbones . I see hell of a lot of foresters and outbacks, many 15 to 20 years old and in general they have minimal issues and have pretty easy MOT's . The oem cv boots even ones under cat ( forester same O/S) last well over a decade, good quality replacements (ones made in Japan generally) fit and last much the same and they cheap and easy fit and not going be repeat issue unless using junk parts. Corrosion is about biggest thing can get caught out on and can be hard spot so be thorough and do just look you got tap the panels and dig around muddy clogged seams to know for sure . waxoyl or similar products applied to underbody, inner panels and suspension parts with some thought and care makes huge difference long term . Do also remember rear SLS struts can get fatigued so if see a sagging rear end they be the issue . over all not much worry about if take little time and stick with a nice clean car, we currently got a 2002 2.5 outback at 120K that picked up private local sale for 1K, thing is close to perfect, not a fan of the 2.5 but car that faultless even if had head gaskets needing doing it be worth doing as they such great practical reliable wagons . Fair few good ones out there, just take time and don't be afraid pay little more for real clean care as for sure you get your moneys worth and then some on a proper clean/tidy older subaru .

if both seats not working and on both heat levels then it probably not heating elements or the seat sensor faulty unless one bad seat blowing circuit protection . If seat element faulty or the seat sensor it generally easier/cheaper pick up a used working seat . things to look at are if seat heat switch illuminates as if not the first issue is control side or power. if switches show life then it either seat or wiring (wiring can get damaged if people sticking stuff under seats or bt rear passengers feet)

i see many 2003 to 2006 still clean, no heavy rot . The older sf is harder find no rot rear end but then it 20yrs old .and most had some real use at some point . only plus with newer ones is tow weight .

It's a modification and as removing emission equipment technically illegal . Insurance likely charge you something even if just a policy detail change fee . I would recommend fixing it with oem parts sourced as cheap as can find them and sit back and enjoy it working A1 for another 8 to 10 years .

Get new valves direct from Japan online as makes price more acceptable and your local garage be able fit them easily enough, check air pump function also and that it not full of trapped moisture . legality of removing it is grey area, while over looked by most MOT centres unless obvious bodged mess it can be an issue with insurance cover and leave you with voided insurance after vehicle examination after a more major accident scenario should they want to .

I wouldn't bother with the 2.5. You either want a 2.0XT Forester or the 3.0 outback .Nothing major to choose from them in running costs. sometimes paying more for real clean example is money and hassle saved and a car with bit more value when you sell . If you don't want travel too far then you going have accept what in your travel range, you can waste a few quid travelling long way to look at junk so even when find a great deal you spent couple hundred running around and many hours . Don't expect specialists always going have best cars, lot will have bad examples refreshed to some extent . Best cars are generally always found private sales .

up to 2008 is okay but after early 2006 you be paying £500+ in road tax on larger engines . Best built in terms of reliability due to over engineered quality components and thicker/better frame steel is 97 to 2002. any proper decent example from those years can be super easy live with, enjoyable and pretty cheap from purchase to yearly costs . \All down to you balance your preferences .

the self levelling rear suspension (SLS) is mechanical design within the strut . only people who supply the SLS type shock is Subaru, if your shocks where after market such as and hopefully KYB excel g (normally are as Subaru SLS struts are about £350 each) they need pairing with non SLS springs as they different spec or even better if towing a lot you want springcoil.co.uk make you custom set with + 20mm ride height and stiffer rating . When you use the old original SLS spring with new non SLS shock you get same issue as on the old shock with rear sagging as spring is 1mm thinner diameter on the SLS strut as the original SLS strut hydraulically assists the spring . Also worth checking the right shocks fitted, many times later SG shocks may get used and spring platform position differs on those . Most average garages are clueless on all this thus a serious hash up you get pay for .

nothing wrong with grey imports, tend be fairly honest cars, not a lot of clocking and jap auction paperwork generally detailed and genuine.

Good luck Do have extra good look around rear subframes, trailing link to body mounts and inner arches for rust Also look up previous MOT history online as advisories or previous failures on corrosion here will alert you to potential issues and where look A nice condition older outback or forester ar reliable and easy live with and cheap running . One of my Forester SF's is 20yrs old, everything works, nice and tidy and last MOT cost me £12 for a front inner CV boot . The Forester XT is quicker on B road blasting and easier lightly tune if you desire, Outback great if really want that volvo size cross country estate and the 3.0 is almost bomb proof and running on chain one less service item .

I wouldn't be too concerned on mileage as many times low miles cars are garbage as short trips and scooting around country lanes more wear and tear than clocking up big miles on the motorway . Most of these subarus still perfectly good at 120K Other areas look at is oil leaks, crank seals and cam covers can leak a little, check for noises from gearbox, wheel bearings, diffs . Just be thorough looking at every car and test everything electrical, good test drive is essential and ideally once you pretty sure it car you want a second test drive and look is a must to be sure you not missed anything and no running issues pop up . Warranty on older cars is almost useless if read small print so you generally down to good will of dealer . The cars are not worth that much in todays car market, dealers get the better examples from trade ins either direct or from main dealers who don't sell cars of certain age . Never be afraid knock price down as can always go back up but you never can go down . Lot of dealers put huge margins on cars and if not selling quick you will see 20%+ come off pretty quick, most these cars they would pay around 1 to 2K tops and maybe little more for real one off examples . I would say 3.5K about right for dealer price for good clean one but a true decent almost new looking example be worth bit more. Private sales 2 to 3K would be price range, prices go up late autumn and through winter,

autotrader tends be overpriced (always take 5 to 10% off priicing even before viewing) look ebay and local gumtree too . They tend come up in spurts and bit of a travel likely required for real gem of a car, preferred colour etc . Spend some time look at them, you never know a good car until seen 3 or 4 same models and learnt the car . Forester 2.0 turbo more tunable, more versatile vehicle but outbacks is lot for money if really need bigger sized estate and the 6 cylinder 3.0 is superb bit of engineering. Take a look at both and see what takes your fancy, older larger cars is buyers market and dealers selling at 4K have HUGE margins. Take your time and buy proper clean car and only buy when you 100% no doubts not when a dealer/seller talks you into the car .

go for a 2.0 XT forester or the 3.0 outback and older is better, you can get a 2004 to 2005 low mileage clean example for way less than your 5K budget meaning you got funds buy the best and spare cash service it and sort any tiny niggles. Staying older than 2006 gives you better road tax annual fee on larger engines,and far better built/reliable car. . the 2.5 has HG issue, the diesel is complete waste of time for efficiency and reliability as is any modern diesel on euro 4 and newer emissions . The even older Forester SF was most robust car subaru ever built. Common issues are rust on rear suspension, subframe and inner arches and rear self levelling suspension sagging but suspension easily changed to KYB excel g struts and you simply check well for rust concerns . Outbacks can be good deals but the 2.0XT forester also can be found pretty clean as not always as abused like standard foresters . Just be fussy and hold out for a truly decent one and build up some knowledge by viewing any local subarus first.

Well the release bearing on your diesel forester is same part as on the 2002-2008 forester 2.5 XT 5 speed and on lot of other subarus such as the impreza . I would get the sleeve based on the forester XT, would expect it straight fit or easily modified if perhaps length of snout a little shorter on the 6 speed box, just double check your release bearing oem numbers are listed in the kit details . (I checked via blueprint parts database ADS73310 release bearing, OEM: 30502AA120)

You referring to throw out bearing case snout sleeve ?

No need take cam sprockets off . back plate not in way . Be sure take rad and fans out in one unit (nothing gain leaving rad in if doing pump), better working space saves time and saves damaging fins of rad or worse .

Integral . Sometime proper good cleaning of the egr will keep it serviceable for a while but these valves work in such harsh conditions it basically a service part in reality .

Those codes are egr valve and normally egr valve position sensor not giving values ecu expects at the commanded duty value (valve sticky or position sensor inaccurate) . Most likely will need new EGR valve but diagnose first rather than shooting parts at it ...

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2008/Impreza 2008/

Get wiring diagrams and check harness visually and with multimeter, if all in spec ideally want put a scope on that and check signals and timing correlational . Visually checking cam belt with top covers pulled could be wise, you may see belt overly loose (tensioner bad perhaps)