Mr B

Window motors are common on these, that about £30 used motor and an hour to fit by someone knows how do them the easy way . Certainly not a fuse lol, can be 100% sure it motor with test light at motor wiring plug, want use a 5amp draw so know wiring ntergrity good, multi meter not good really as can show good but wiring corrosion ect could stop actual working current so need test circuit under load for proper verification. You can also add a drain hole in the motor housing on lowest point near the motor spindle bearing on the replacement and replenish some grease/ lube slide rails which helps lengthen life . £400 cheap but check rear inner arches, subframe and trailing link body mounts THOROUGHLY as can rust bad on these and pricey repairs . Saggy rear suspension also common and caused buy failed sls struts but new kyb struts and springs pretty cheap .

I think you need get better idea of what been done and expected faults before making decisions.

turbo seals gone and taking oil into intake and burning it perhaps ? what seals been done ? what not pressurising ? If just loosing oil it pretty easy conclude where and why .

What reason it being looked at and what tests been done One would assume it overheating. Heads don't exactly go porous, you could have failed head gasket or you could have cracked head or even crack block and exactly what usable or not will not be known unless heads pulled off.Your real negative is fact it close to 160K so unless already had some work done a rebuild probably wiser than just refreshing heads and gaskets . I think used engine could be good option, it all really depends on exactly how good your engine is bottom end and what exactly wrong with heads as simply cleaniing them up and skimming not a big deal, although at 160K doubt they going be great serviceable condition

plug it in and off you go, be sure either use the subaru spare plug harness for wiring either with correct plug for simple plug in install or wire it in with epoxy sleeved crimps or solder and epoxy lined heat shrink . Amount I get in done by trailer hitch installers that use quick and cheesy line splice piercing connectors that a total sin to the trade is shocking, and they splice them all over the rear harness making right mess and future area of electric fault hassle (hence why they in my bay as tracking down light faults that caused MOT fail normally :-) good for me but nt good for owners so be sure installer wires only to auxilary harness tail already built in for hitch wiring ) .

Inspect the damage, impact is always stone and very obvious if is . Unfortunately every part of a modern car is low quality and minimal material needed . Spend a tenth the cost of a new Forester on an old one if you want a good car.All modern cars regardless of brand much the same, new cars are complete waste of money and massive impact on environment, nothing green about them beside the profit 😉

One of my forester SF models is 28 years old, done 238K and only advisory is chipped windscreen, aircon works fine, everything works fine and condition is superb due to quality paints and trim used. We service a few legacy models and foresters over 300K, don't do many aircon parts on older models, don't do many silly repairs on any older models generally .New stuff is noticable big decline in quality, people really need stop buying the junk . Breaks my heart see what government scrapped in cash in car schemes, really good for environment is all this short lifespan high maintenance modern stuff ! Tell you what it is good for, making money, we do well fixing them and manufacturers doing well on markup as component cost at oem level is dirt cheap for quality they using today . sad modern world we live in unfortunately 😞

Reality is if you want a good car buy an old one, new cars are junk regardless of brand, all the engineering skill and investment is in making everything minimal cost, just about good enough do the job . A forester from 1999 likely do 300K plus without much major drama and with rust protection or some welding quite easily could last 40 years . A new forester and most new cars not capable of a quarter of that lifespan . I work on this stuff day in day out and compare simple things like window motors and suspension bushes is night and day from 2 decades ago . nothing made to last and half of it not fit for purpose, it designed purely for minimal costing in materials and manufacture process .

Would help diagnosis if new if ecu actually triggered those codes thus lights or if just goofy plug/wiring error in your dash assembly causing lights come on. I suspect harness plug seating issue and side effect is these warning clusters acting as earth route perhaps . As you done the repair only you have full insight to areas of potential damage physical or from water that might of occurred .

Yes but not very well. I had a customer who done a sg with the oem links from early subarus same as whiteline and they align at poor angle plus length differs so swaybar max/min travel positions differ ...Customers sg went back to ball jointed ...

2002 onwards (SG onwards) should be balljointed drop links Ones like you have fitted now are for earlier models and what he calling lollipop ones ...

See my previous post . Don't now what ride quality and life of teins will be on your roads :-SFor road I would of gone kyb excel g on custom springs with minimal drop .I would of used meyle or tripple5 drop links .

certainly won't get one in halfrauds lol Best bet is looking/searching on eBay for forester SG models being broken for spares or used mirror assembly as direct search . Used cost about 50 roughly . for new price you best sit down first :-)

they hard to spot and hidden a bit by objects and shields, Have a look at this link for some images that may help Torque spec is 12Nm ee20 diesel is chain .

Being dual mass and having done over 100K you be wise replace flywheel unless it super condition . The high torque of the diesel and the awd is real mean on clutches .

Specialist cleaning can work wonders, if not either used or new dpf as plenty scrapped early diesel foresters (can actually buy 08 to 10 crank failure complete forester for £800) New oem DPF nice as quality and fit will be better but price just crazy, aftermarket is £299 but we not used any on subarus yet so can't comment on how good a deal they really turn out to be .

I would try chemically cleaning dpf first .

It will handle way better on b roads on good condition stock than any lower cost or short stroke coilover kit . 2 new kyb struts for rear ar about £120, custom springs all round about £220 . Forgot the clunking issue lol , that causes a driver cringe and frustration every rut :-)

Impreza suspension don't work out that well without custom rear springs as they sag bit low (even wagon springs) either go stock or kyb excel G with springcoil custom spring set to lower it just a little. Coilovers or over lowered suspension for B road use is not a good result in drivability or practicality, You end up trashing the underside, avoiding certain roads, dodging pot holes, drive slow compensate handling issues and can't even mount a small kerbing :-)

You can not put any other springs on the forester rear struts as it SLS tokiko suspension struts . They have height adjustment system via valve ports and it hydraulically controlled using the struts stroke movement as a pump. You change the spring heights/rates and system tries correct height changes caused by it .

to be fair most modern diesels pretty useless in terms of being trouble free, since stringent emissions and stupidity of the dpf they almost impossible be reliable to standards people use to from early 2000's and mpg also took a hit . Biggest issue for subaru was the crank issue, that still not fully resolved and possibly very tricky solve on the boxers short crank and block journal limitations . Kia pretty junky and the diesel not a great one, we see a few and they all run tractor rough Reality is old was gold, select models from 90's and early 2000's best you ever going see if pride component quality and pure reliability. I'll have my 99 forester on the road when most if not all the diesels ones are scrap lol . Quite sad and depressing working on some newer stuff, it can be 30 grand of cheap tat when you really start taking it apart and have seen all the common repeat failure areas. All the engineering and technical effort is in making them cheap as possible and using environment issues as marketing ploy, reality is you buying junk and polluting planet worse than ever before but it just looks great on paper and on the emission testers .

I would of gone with a 2004/2005 proper tidy example to make worthy saving in road tax and have good experience and no hassle . To see rust on these you need not just look but physical touch/tap within rear arch, they go right up in turret outer side and around spot welds and also down sides of the stiffening plate that sits directly behind the strut, also the arch/sill end near the seat belt bolt goes and this happens from inside so external looks great till tappy tap tap :-) inner arch filler pipe area also needs inspection . Subframes and trailing rear link front mount bracket also can rust bad on these, subframes need a really good inspection (more so OS) Other known issues are failing SLS rear strut valving so rear starts sagging . OEM immobiliser is SKM key (skim-key) transponder chip in the key moulding .The alarm is sigma and it also has extra immobiliser circuits (to meet alarm regulations) so someone would of tampered with wiring bypass that fully or plugged in a bypass adapter (you can buy these for this alarm series ) . alarm ecu very easy swap out and you can put the keyfob boards in your keyfobs and be up and rolling pretty quick if you know what you doing (make sure you get 4 digit manual pin code). 2006 XT not a great seller as most like the earlier cheaper tax year plus it pretty easy find very tidy Forester XT's as they don't get used as farm tools quite so much It not sounding a gem so I would make sure either it very cheap or everything else A1 .

fuel cap not seated will cause evap codes . Get a cheap code reader or diag cable for the freeSSM software and review pending and previous fault codes as starting point and some direction on what likely the cause .

other thing this can be with new owners who not read the manuals is the sat nav alarms . Won't find much reason not to like a 2004 outback as they pretty damn solid especially the 6 cylinder model .

Mishimoto do one they just don't now it fits the sti . Just use the oem subaru part number to see model variants that use that rad, oem cap is the best one to use imo .