Mr B

advertise it marketplace gumtree and so forth, spares or repair needs be trailered as sorn ... lots of good parts and if corrosion not real bad possibly could go back on road, sure sounds like good donor car though.

The best component quality and factory build effort was 1998 to 2005 roughly . besides better longevity of things like suspension due to both part quality the engineering choices you also benefit from less emission garbage that nothing but endless warning lights once aged plus common parts are cheap even for oem quality on earlier cars . Road tax likely better too pre 2005 and your insurance won't have be stupid expensive on fairly low value vehicle . Forget the 2.5 unless stumbled on something absolute too good overlook and aim for the EZ engines as they are a gem in durability and offer good performance for vehicle size . You may want look at Outback too if that sort of vehicle practicality any advantage to you . On older cars main thing be thorough on is rust and you need truly look hard save any expensive mistakes

That out of spec, you can adjust the pedal from under the dash which might improve biting point but if clutch well worn it may not give results you hoping for . Clutches on these don't hold out great & quality clutch is spendy job

All it highlights is massive incompetence of Subaru UK ...

Mmm, Needs a good visual and leak down test . If your mechanics compression results correct surprised runs very good at all, if you using no oil/water and compression truly that low on one side then it more than likely valve/timing issue or cylinder to cylinder gasket failure perhaps (has timing belt jumped/gone slack). Such a sudden transition from running okay to failure is not norm for engine internal failure but could be for cam belt/timing issue . Don't overlook basics until compression/leakdown double checked/verified with cause found . Really needs competent investigation, heads can be pulled in frame pretty easily if clued up on it but if does need some level engine work costs going mount up even if do some work yourself .

Not a lot of details here to help give most useful response. What technical issues having leading up to doing compression testing and has any recent work been done to motor ? Initial assumption would be valve issues or valve timing on the poor compression reading head . A good visual and bore scope might give some answers quickly, leak down test be useful too .

Assume it elec motor to hub issue but usual no clarity on real nuts and bolt of it lol (much like diesel crank and Hybrid parasitic/battery issues lol) . Would assume it a pretty difficult fix post manufacture as if was not embarrassing and was easy remedy it would of been highlighted so as this bad press costs them millions and creates massive environmental waste from manufacturing & shipping faulty garbage all over the place for nothing lol . Anyone who thinks current electric vehicles going save the environment really need look into industrial manufacture & electricity manufacture and think a bit harder, you won't fix issues of industrialism by throwing more industrialism at it . If it wasn't so serious it would be funny ... I remember good old Subarus that do 20 to 30 years service and hardly ever need any major parts. Anything euro 5 onwards fills a skip with repair and service parts in 8 years and vehicle itself pretty much crusher garbage within 10 years, not even much salvage interest as such poor engineering/manufacture .

Really highlights the current manufacturing negligence and engineering effort to reduce everything to minimal expenditure, durability and lifespan . Not good for Subaru, It's golden age of top reliability and good gumption engineering is down the toilet thanks to the diesel, hybrid issues and general electrical glitches, poor durability on the newer models . Luckily haven't sold many. What amazes me is how so many people can so easily spend 30 to 60 grand on this modern vehicle garbage !

For road use lightly tuned it really not a must. What is a must is good service/maintenance effort mixed with top quality manufacturer parts and that means original japan sourced oe/oem parts for lot of critical timing belt parts. original water pumps are very high quality (Subaru made their own water pumps in house FHI for decades for a reason), you want oem or rcm, I use Aisin pumps too but only on non turbo road cars . Subaru oem Mitsuboshi belts are high quality and very rare see a problem that purely a belt fault as it normally other parts/poor fitting/poor maintenance root cause . The STi aramid strengthened belt is one I would use when application warrants going aramid . I not biggest fan of Gates .

You might want wait for the recall on wheels falling off get resolved first 🙂 Anyone buying a new/newer car wants put in a lot of homework prior to buying and be prepared for some hassle/expense .

Brilliant these EV vehicles, scrap before even drive them ... I hate to evaluate manufacture to waste lifetime carbon values of modern short life products ... Assume it linked to rapid torsional loads/drag created by electric motor ! will be keeping an eye on news updates on this lol . I should be all but retired before the current EV/Hybrid bank account emptying garbage becomes independent garage bread & butter thankfully lol ...

I would say absolute waste of money/material resources replace/paint that, any aftermarket paint on plastic is far inferior to factory coated durability by a long shot .. Your best bet on that is some top quality cutting paste to buff the scuff narks out best can and just move on with life. Light grey/silver is one of most forgiving colours for scuffs and generally can improve massively with a good finishing compound . Companies wanting to replace a bumper for that are just gouging easy money jobs not what best for customer or practicality/long term durability .

What exact model and year Legacy ? Full system as in full from manifolds or full from the Cat ? Also your 2K quote, is that a custom made exhaust or off the shelf pattern parts ?

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2009/Forester 2009/

The centre diff is a viscous coupling sealed unit and flushing gearbox oil will make no difference to it . new units for a 6 speed be around the £400 mark, the 6 speed is slightly harder replacement than a 5 speed box . I would drive it around a bit and see if stays constant issue, do check all tyres are close match in wear and same model tyre, one of worst things you can do on these AWD viscous diff systems is run miss matched and off brand junky tyres ...

198.9p a litre for good stuff near me, personally I do not not do enough mileage for it to be a huge burden and got a diesel 55-60mpg capable if need do economic longer journeys but the knock on effect to all other costs is going start hitting people and economy pretty hard. I got no idea why US didn't release more oil get price down as Putin laughing at the moment . Down side is going make electric easier push and the consumer only find out how that not great ownership ease/cost or great environment benefit in the next decade . Value of Subarus used going be affected, very much so for 6 cylinders one would expect as that always a concern to many before this price jump ... When gallon of petrol is £9 sub to low 20mpg makes you cringe and more so when feeding the kids, paying utility bills and mortgage all increased as well . World is quite a mess and frankly I would expect much worse is coming .

^ Yes ridiculous engineering mistake . I was under impression it power tailgate only but it might be the latch lock open keeping modules active . This the problem with modern cars across all brands ... a lot of features and tech thrown at it with poor levels of engineering and testing yet more effort and engineering in making sure components materials and assembly can be maximum profit potential leaving the customers with over priced short lifespan high maintenance and faulty from factory products ...

Basically fully opening and closing is pretty much part of the window learning procedure . don't fully rule out the rear hatch as possible still linked to that and when latch recognised open the related modules stay awake thus sapping power . another factor would be boot light . We had a few issues in related to the power tailgate . Window switch on this era also known faults and is a recall on certain part number switches, garbage window control engineering compared to anything up to around 2010 . It not so much the complexity of modern vehicles that the issue it the poor engineering thought and constant mistakes at electronic design and software programming mixed with constant striving effort make everything as profitable as possible basically resulted in designed failure to rape the consumers bank accounts every way they can, amazingly people also seem quite content keep buying modern rubbish and believe it environmentally better lol ! .

Is it power tailgate ? Is well known issue on parasitic draw of the tailgate when left open . Once the battery totally dead the window/body control module likely lost reference position of the side window thus it will not operate and possibly need window learning/reset procedure carried out . Modern cars are 30 grands worth of cables computers and sloppy electrical engineering/programming that completely avoidable mistakes and generally pointless garbage concepts that not needed to start with . We hardly see any issues with models from 90's to 2005, newer you go the more unreliable high cost and stupid it gets . If I don't like the engineering and component quality I won't own it, all my vehicles are 2 decades old, have almost zero stupid faults and almost zero repair costs year after year .

hopefully all fits well but many times on braided lines you find the fittings wrong for bracket & hose rubs against strut or arch tub edge or sits far to close to it . I suspect those lines might of been SG model versions and if so bracket fitting differs slightly .

If the fitting on the hose at the bracket correct for SF struts the flat sides (needs rotating 90degrees) will fit between the raised parts of the strut bracket and a clip goes on the back and locates in the sides of the groove on the fitting . Clips can be had via Subaru dealer parts counter generally next day and are less than £3 each . If that the wrong sized fitting some faffing about will be required or possibly a custom P clip bracket made . It needs sorting as not really road safe left like that and be an MOT issue and a bigger issue in a accident vehicle inspection report ... Also a good loophole for insurance void your cover ... Seen a lot of half arsed mess on aftermarket poor fitment and poor installation brake lines over the years. amazing how someone thinks that half arsed job an upgrade !!

If you get stuck on finding someone local work with it, we could probably deal with it if posted it to us . Is possible legacy models early 90's with manual windows have usable parts but same scenario finding one of those in scrap yard to look at ... At least it something that likely pretty straightforward refurb, good luck .

The heater circuit speeds up initial response of sensors, The ecu has reference bias voltage values on the heater circuit and flag a code when these values seen as out of normal range . Once fault detected and present the computer logic going do it's thing . 02 heater faults easy diagnose, simple visual inspection of wiring at sensor for obvious damage/corrosion and power/ground checks with test light or dmm and finally resistance value of heater element in the sensor with dmm . Sensors can be tight but if they not looking corroded thy generally come out pretty easy . If sensor known bad you can cut wiring tail off and go to town with what ever wrenches/sockets you got that going work .

I would guess the spindle has detached from the cog. Best way forward is close visual examination to see if cog stationary while spindle freely rotating and cog teeth look serviceable condition . If above seems be the case then drilling out rivets to access spindle for a repair solution is good first route to go . pinning or welding cog to spindle may be possible fix and either bolting or spot welding or riveting assembly back together ( bolts/button head screws if got clearance be quick and easy option) .

Don't rule out rebuilt turbo (new or refurb does not always=good), I seen plenty issues with newly installed turbos . Full in depth inspection of EGR , engine breather and a leak down test might be very helpful if engine suspect .